Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Subscribed. Curious to know how to remove the air bag as well.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Found the plug. Staring directly forward after taking the "knee panel" off, it is taped to a loom of wires. Trying to attach a picture but having issues. It is attached to the loom from the black box with 7 plugs on it, I am assuming the BCM. If you go the third plug over that is green, and follow it up the loom, you can't miss it.

 

Thank you all for the help. It is working perfectly now!

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

I envy you -- staring up from the green plug by BCM, and am not finding it whatsoever. Would have thought my truck would have had the plug -- there was a 7.5 amp fuse in the slot for heated steering wheel from the factory, would have assumed the loom was up there somewhere.

 

Anyone have a photo of what the connector looks like? Would appreciate the guidance...

Posted

Subscribed. Curious to know how to remove the air bag as well.

Same here. Also how much does this whole change cost exactly? It would be a nice feature to have.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

Same here. Also how much does this whole change cost exactly? It would be a nice feature to have.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

Searching eBay or parts sites are the best way to give you that quote.

 

Basically, whatever it'll cost you to get a heated wheel plus the clockspring, which is now part #23381964.

 

I think the wheel ran me about $200; the clockspring roughly $60 shipped. While the wheel can be second hand, make sure to buy the clockspring new.

 

Will stress that this proved to be a bit trickier to execute than I anticipated.

 

 

Posted

Once you have a heated steering wheel, you will wonder how you ever made it through life without one. Greatest feature ever.

  • Like 1
Posted

Once you have a heated steering wheel, you will wonder how you ever made it through life without one. Greatest feature ever.

I totally agree! It's like the best thing ever I cant live w/o haha

  • Like 2
Posted

 

Searching eBay or parts sites are the best way to give you that quote.

 

Basically, whatever it'll cost you to get a heated wheel plus the clockspring, which is now part #23381964.

 

I think the wheel ran me about $200; the clockspring roughly $60 shipped. While the wheel can be second hand, make sure to buy the clockspring new.

 

Will stress that this proved to be a bit trickier to execute than I anticipated.

 

 

Is that click spring also for the 2014 model? Also curious when you said tricky what was tricky?

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

Look at what I have listed as my driven vehicle. Yes, this clockspring is for a 2014. You can try the older part numbers, but you'll see it redirects in EPC to 23381964.

As for what was tricky - everything. Airbag removal is a PITA. SRS wiring loom is also tucked WAY up into dashboard, which itself is not as accessible as older vehicles were, even after you remove a host of panels and the gauge cluster. No connector for the heated circuit present in my SLE, meaning I had to cut and splice, and run an ATR fuse tap (itself somewhat tricky to come by) from the DS fuse block.
Lots of work, and I'm not that impressed with the heat coming out of it, if I'm honest. Maybe I will be come winter...

Posted

Air bag removal

Yeah, well aware. Only studied this forum and the GM service instructions for weeks before tackling it.

 

It's tricky not for a dearth of information -- it's tricky because the process itself is a PITA. Working blind, essentially, and it's far less straightforward than the GMT-900s were.

Posted

Yeah, well aware. Only studied this forum and the GM service instructions for weeks before tackling it.

 

It's tricky not for a dearth of information -- it's tricky because the process itself is a PITA. Working blind, essentially, and it's far less straightforward than the GMT-900s were.

 

Yeah, just wanted to share the procedure for the people in this thread that were asking how to do it. It is a real PITA the first time.

Posted

Anyone know if a Chevy and GMC wheel are interchangeable with an airbag from the opposite?

For example I have a GMC, can I buy a bare heated Chevy wheel and use my original airbag/horn pad with the GMC logo?

Posted

Found the plug. Staring directly forward after taking the "knee panel" off, it is taped to a loom of wires. Trying to attach a picture but having issues. It is attached to the loom from the black box with 7 plugs on it, I am assuming the BCM. If you go the third plug over that is green, and follow it up the loom, you can't miss it.

 

Thank you all for the help. It is working perfectly now!

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

 

 

I envy you -- staring up from the green plug by BCM, and am not finding it whatsoever. Would have thought my truck would have had the plug -- there was a 7.5 amp fuse in the slot for heated steering wheel from the factory, would have assumed the loom was up there somewhere.

 

Anyone have a photo of what the connector looks like? Would appreciate the guidance...

 

Finally had time to do this today. All swapped out and working flawlessly. Plug was exactly where Blaake said it was. Piece of cake! Thanks Blaaake. Here's a couple pics to show you guys.

 

4BC1D148-9BE9-4437-8637-72B07A0D8B19_zps

 

5F5D30D8-8558-42A0-8561-3CBDACA7240A_zps

 

AE8542E4-6386-4F34-A013-684B5E14FA9B_zps

 

6178C223-33CC-437F-A869-2F172766F4CD_zps

 

BB2F3AC0-3116-4CD0-8D54-2ADA9C3FE6A0_zps

 

89FD8DC1-B118-4BA0-929A-7483EF21A519_zps

 

356D63BD-07FF-40BC-B814-C97D0315DE70_zps

 

A4842E44-42EF-43AD-AE27-5EDBA69A8C9B_zps

  • Like 2
Posted

I have my wheel and clock spring. Just so I understand... the clock spring will have a connector that plugs into a loom under the dash by the BCM?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...