Jump to content

P vs LT (E) vs LT 3PLY


uh6tdrvr

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I have read a ton of posts on what tire should i get, P rated LT or I have to have a 3 ply side wall.

I found this on an Overland web site and thought Id share it. Goes through all 3 of the above mentioned and varies air pressure for puncture resistance.

I know has two coopers but it a pretty valid demo of capability and the only one that I have seen.

 

 

 

Posted

LT (light truck) run higher pressure, and more plys, so it will be stiffer and better for hauling heavy loads (came OEM on my 2000 Z71). The P (passenger) are lower pressure, less plys so they give a more pliable ride (stock on my 2008 Denali).

 

I'd stick with whatever your truck came with. They tune the suspension accordingly, so it will handle/ride for the OEM tires.

Posted

I run the S/T MAXX tires in rocks and mud all the time and they perform great.

Posted

Anyone who says to keep the 4 ply's hasn't lived on a gravel road with them. They simply don't hold up. With the correct pressures 10 ply's ride well, especially compared to the SR-A's.

Posted

I've only ever had P series tires until now. This time I bought a set of LT 6 ply Coopers. I plan on hauling plenty of firewood when I buy a house so I figured I'd go with something in between this time.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I toggled my updates off a couple of years back. Since I don't have any CEL activity and the truck runs fine I'm happy to refrain from rolling the dice. I figure they've got it as good as it's gonna get. Recalls are another matter and I will strongly consider those if I get a notice in the mail.
    • We'll know soon. But at the end of the day they'll likely not take owner aggravation and costs into consideration. Probably the most important factor to them will be bottom line, along with units sold. Did they make money off sales of AFM/DFM-equipped vehicles? If yes, and the margin was large enough in spite of warranty and recall costs, I don't know that they will consider much else. Aside from government involvement of course, as in EPA and other regulatory bodies.
    • HM oils and cleaning. Well, soft deposits yes, perhaps. Like you say esters are present in in theory that should be a plus. But, is there enough? 🤔 The marker is the "Aniline Point" and it has to be pretty low to solve out baked on deposits. The softer sludge, yea, they do that and that is the claim. Valvoline R&P is the only HM oil I know of (Jury is out on Mobil 1's product) whose chemistry is uniquely able to remove the hard stuff and not be so aggressive as to swell seals to uselessness.    Oxidation levels in virgin oils blends is a good indicator of ester level and higher is generally a lower Aniline number and at one time we could predict without the $400 aniline test it's effectiveness. AN's, alkylated naphthalene doesn't show up in the oxidation test but does show in the aniline test and has become sort of a cheaper go to but most oils only add enough to solve the additive package. Not nearly enough to clean the harder carbon materials.   To your second question about does it matter. Yes is the short answer. Deposits are insulative. Those under the piston crown for example add octane requirement for knock free running. We don't' normally notice in todays motors due to Knock sensor driven ignition R-e-t-a-r-d. At least until the full slate of available values is consumed. Newer motors also often use oil jets to cool the piston to achieve tunes that would otherwise not be possible. Deposits on either side subtract from that. Deposits in fine screens used in VVT/VVL or DFM/AFM services live and die on cleanliness and screens are front and center. Vacuum pumps as well like brake booster in the K2's.    90% of todays oils are Group II+/III blends. A few more at PAO/AN/Group II's. A few boutique oils not Walmart shelf materials have enough solvency to prevent but not remove the hard stuff. R & P the current exception. Even HPL's EC30/40 used as directed (20% max) will get the soft stuff and some varnish out but not the hard stuff.    That orange varnish isn't baked on oil. Those are fuel varnishes left when the fuel diluted in the oil drops out when the oil cools. Like sugar does in a saturated mix of sugar and water that is put into the frig. That is ring sticking material and a glue the binds hard carbon sometimes.    Name brand shelf oils are intended to provide a useful service life at the least cost and highest benefit to the OEM who is trying very hard to keep you in $500 a month payment programs where the real money is made.   Did I miss anything you asked or left unsatisfied?        
    • Yes, I understand. And I was saying (poorly), that it popped up on the DIC when I didn't have that info screen up. Just like you, but for a different maintenance issue. And just like yours mine didn't need to be shown at that time.
    • Ugh, amateurs.   But I did learn HM seal conditioners are esters.   I'm curious about deposit removal - some of the HM oils claim they really clean stuff up, the old and hard to reach stuff, and that's great? To Grumpy's point, a good oil should already be keeping the house pretty clean. I assume there are hard to reach places (underside of pistons?) and things that just accumulate baked-on oil and combustion vapors. If the deposits aren't friction or combustion surfaces and the deposit is just normal "seasoning", is it actually important to remove it?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...