Jump to content

Oil in intake tube...anyone else check theirs???


gone_fishing

Recommended Posts

Posted

Almost forgot to post this. Back in November I had one of my ballast go out on my DDM HID lights. It was the passenger side light and to get to the bulb you have to remove the engine air filter box. When I began to remove the intake tube I noticed oil collecting in the boot that goes between the tube and air filter box. Looking down the inside of the tube I discovered more oil. I have since cleaned the tube and the MAF sensor and installed the RX clean side separator. I will inspect the tube again later to see if this has stopped oil from getting into the intake tube. I have had my Volant CAI with Donaldson dry filter on for almost 15,000 miles now (installed May 2014) and my RX catch can about 9,000 miles now (installed September 2014). I don't recall seeing any oil in the factory intake tube when I installed the Volant. I don't know why the Volant design would collect any more but I thought I would ask if anyone else has found oil collecting in their intake tube (factory or aftermarket). Thanks.

post-124685-0-19895400-1421534788_thumb.jpg

post-124685-0-45662700-1421534801_thumb.jpg

post-124685-0-19895400-1421534788_thumb.jpg

post-124685-0-45662700-1421534801_thumb.jpg

post-124685-0-19895400-1421534788_thumb.jpg

post-124685-0-45662700-1421534801_thumb.jpg

post-124685-0-19895400-1421534788_thumb.jpg

post-124685-0-45662700-1421534801_thumb.jpg

Posted

My system is all stock and when I installed my oil catch can, I noticed both clean side lines had a tiny bit of oil at the snap lock fitting but the air box was completely dry on the inside and my throttle body was dry and clean as well. I have the 5.3L engine. Based on what you're describing it appears the oil is originating at your air box which doesn't make sense because where would the oil be coming from? Regardless, the flow of air would imply oil wouldn't flow back toward this gasket unless your CAI pipe is sloped down toward the airbox and there's a tremendous amount of oil coming through your clean side lines. You're certain you have a dry air filter and not an oiled filter? (Seems like too much oil even if it was an oiled filter, just asking to be sure). I didn't inspect the tube too closely though. I didn't think to based on the flow of air and the fact that my airbox and throttle body were clean and dry.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

it has to be from the valve cover fitting that feed the valve cover air back into the intake system. At least that is my guess.

Posted

I should have mentioned that the breather hose that went from the passenger side valve cover to the intake tube was very oily inside. The driver side hose had oil in also but the passenger side hose had more for some reason. From what I have gathered, this is the clean side of the system and allows fresh (clean) air to come into the engine crankcase. It's when at WOT that the lack of vacuum allows air to reverse.

 

The only theory I can come up with why my Volant intake had oil in and not the factory intake is due to the length of the breather hose. The factory setup uses pretty short hoses that go from the valve covers to the intake box. They are also covered in some sort of foam (maybe for insulation?). My theory is that the short/insulated hose prevents oil from collecting in the hose. The Volant setup uses a hose that is about a foot long. When it gets colder, any oily gases in the tube cool down and oil begins to collect. This oil eventually collects enough that is flows into the intake tube. The tube does slope down toward the filter which explains why there was oil in the boot. With the shorter factory hoses, oil can't collect as easy as it stays as an gas. As I mentioned just a theory. Hopefully with the clean side separator I won't be seeing any more oil collecting in the tube.

Posted

I should have mentioned that the breather hose that went from the passenger side valve cover to the intake tube was very oily inside. The driver side hose had oil in also but the passenger side hose had more for some reason. From what I have gathered, this is the clean side of the system and allows fresh (clean) air to come into the engine crankcase. It's when at WOT that the lack of vacuum allows air to reverse.

 

The only theory I can come up with why my Volant intake had oil in and not the factory intake is due to the length of the breather hose. The factory setup uses pretty short hoses that go from the valve covers to the intake box. They are also covered in some sort of foam (maybe for insulation?). My theory is that the short/insulated hose prevents oil from collecting in the hose. The Volant setup uses a hose that is about a foot long. When it gets colder, any oily gases in the tube cool down and oil begins to collect. This oil eventually collects enough that is flows into the intake tube. The tube does slope down toward the filter which explains why there was oil in the boot. With the shorter factory hoses, oil can't collect as easy as it stays as an gas. As I mentioned just a theory. Hopefully with the clean side separator I won't be seeing any more oil collecting in the tube.

Interesting theory that definitely makes sense. It makes my wonder what crud is building up on my valves WITHOUT the clean side separator. Keep us posted on how the clean side separator performs. I may be getting on if you notice a reduction in this oil.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 9 months later...
Posted

sorry to dig up an old post. I was just changing the engine air filter on my truck and found a puddle of oil in my airbox as well. my intake tube was also slick with oil too. Clean oil mind you, not like what comes out of my catch can. I have an Airaid MIT intake tube on my truck with the stock air filter box. I also have an RX catch can.

 

I have to say I was VERY surprised by this. I never had any oil build up with my stock airbox. I am gonna go out on a limb and say it's the Airaid. Might have to look into the RX clean side separator kit as well now.

Posted

I have the RX CC with clean side separator and have never had oil in the MIT.

 

RT

 

Good to know. I have the cleanside separator on order.

 

Any pics on how it gets installed?

Posted

So why do you think it's the airaid? Higher airflow sucking in clean oil?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably. Not 100% sure to be honest.

 

Too many WOT pulls maybe haha

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I linked both valve covers together with the provided 3/4 hose and used the factory connectors on each end. Next you remove the oil cap and replace it with the adapter and clean side separator, then run the hose from the separator to the MIT port on the bottom and plug the front port off with a 3/4 pipe plug. Done BTW...WOT pulls will pull oil in the tube without a clean side separator installed.

 

RT

Posted

I linked both valve covers together with the provided 3/4 hose and used the factory connectors on each end. Next you remove the oil cap and replace it with the adapter and clean side separator, then run the hose from the separator to the MIT port on the bottom and plug the front port off with a 3/4 pipe plug. Done BTW...WOT pulls will pull oil in the tube without a clean side separator installed.

 

RT

 

Thanks. I found pictures of how to install the CSS. I am gonna make a video of it too. And add it to my channel, since I wasnt able to find a good video showing the install.

 

Then that has to be it. I don't exactly drive like a grandpa. So I guess the cleanside separator is a necessity in my situation. Strange that it only happens with the Airaid though. Never happened with the stock air tube. Oh well.

 

SHould have my cleanside separator this week. I'll try to drive nice until then. But I'll pull the intake tube off and clean it again after I get the CSS.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

im glad i searched first I too have a Air raid MIT and went outside to check the fliter and noticed in the Box puddles of clean oil as well nothing in the tube, and nothing like the dirty oil on my catch can. Did you install the CSS? where did you mount it? is there any cause for concern with so much oil accumulating

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have the airraid also and would like to see pics or video of it hooked up. Seems the hose fittings on the airraid are larger than the hose supplied to the clean side separator. There's an adapter but it doesn't seem to fit well. Would like to hear some install stories.

Posted

im glad i searched first I too have a Air raid MIT and went outside to check the fliter and noticed in the Box puddles of clean oil as well nothing in the tube, and nothing like the dirty oil on my catch can. Did you install the CSS? where did you mount it? is there any cause for concern with so much oil accumulating

 

I have the airraid also and would like to see pics or video of it hooked up. Seems the hose fittings on the airraid are larger than the hose supplied to the clean side separator. There's an adapter but it doesn't seem to fit well. Would like to hear some install stories.

 

I guess its "normal" for oil to get into the intake tube, but with the stock tube there are plenty of baffles that make it less apparent. With an aftermarket tube, it seems like the valve cover vents can suck more oil mist and accumulate it in the tube and over time it can drip down the tube back to the air filter box.

 

I did install the CSS. Check my video below. However, I was lucky enough to find an original RX branded CSS from a member here. They do not sell them anymore, there is another brand called RX speedworks that is selling a similar looking product but it is not the original CSS. Same with their catch cans.

 

If you want a good quality catch can and CSS, look into Elite Engineering's products. They are the next best on the market now.

 

 

 

 

And here is another video of when I was changing out my Air Filter. this is when I first noticed the oil pooling in the tube and intake box. Right around 3:30 I start to find the oil in the tube and box.

 

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,377 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Fix one problem and find another.   Truck didn't have a thermostat in it so I flushed out the system today and refilled with 50/50 Dexcool. This truck is so old (LOL) that it has a sticker under the hood alerting people to the fact that it contains such. There is also an orange supplement with the owner's manual alerting the owner that "Your vehicle is one of a number of late production 1995 General Motors vehicles that use a newly developed engine coolant in the cooling system..."   I was still a little flummoxed by what seemed like a rich condition (exhaust smell, and a puff of carbon with a punchy rev). While watching the coolant temperature and testing the thermostat with my scanner, I happened to notice the IAT (incoming air temperature) to the intake was -40F. I know the temp is below average today, but I can still feel my face, and I was wearing shorts.   D'oh!! I realized I had never plugged the IAT back in, and the airbox was out while I was doing coolant. So I paused, reinstalled the airbox and plugged in the IAT, and viola. Things cleared right up, and I watched the coolant temp climb to a reported 198 degrees on the scanner (195 thermostat) and then it dropped to 194 (open) and then back up to 198 and held. Let it cool, came back, checked the coolant level and was satisifed.   Victory lap?   It needed more than the couple of gallons of gas I put in it from almost bone dry, so I ran it up to the gas station. It had earned it, or, at least I was pretty certain I wouldn't be draining or removing the tank anytime soon.   CEL popped on just as I was cruising a nice steady 40mph, just after coasting down a slight downhill curve.. Of course, it did, because, why let me enjoy not having dash emojis for a little while.   I just happened to have the scanner plugged in. I don't text and drive but I might scan and drive. Don't tell the police.   P0401, EGR flow insufficient.    Well, hello, EGR... ...my old friend! Welcome to the party, now that the engine reaches the factory-programmed operating temperature. I'm sure it was gagging on hostile, rich exhaust and carbon this whole time so I'll take it off and look again.   At least it's easily accessible, and worst case, about $65 to replace.   To keep, or to sell... Hmm. I want it running correctly either way. It's easier to sell when there are no fault codes.   It needs tires (they're aged out and cracking)   It could probably use an oil pan seal, or maybe the timing cover gasket/ junction with the pan needs redone because I've got an issue there that leaves a drop of oil on the floor.   If I do tires I'm sure they'll say the ball joints could use freshening, and, and, and, and.... At some point I'll have to stop. I can't (shouldn't) make it perfect, that's not what this rig is.
    • Take it back. That's about all you can do.  Mark 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...