Jump to content

Remove front bumper to change tow hook surround?

dboot66

By dboot66
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

dboot66 Enthusiast

dboot66

Posted
Posted

So I really don't like the dark gray plastic trim piece that surrounds the front tow hooks on my 2015 Sierra SLT AT CC. I'm in the process of dechroming the entire truck, and also blacking out the grill. I know I could plasti-dip the dark gray piece, but I looked online and I purchased a new black (GM calls the color anthracite) tow hook surround piece for $69. It's a solid black plastic piece, and if it gets rock chips or anything it will still be black under the rock chip.

 

I have read on another thread that you probably have to remove the entire front lower bumper in order to change out this plastic trim piece. I took it to a body shop in town, and the guy said he needs to remove the bumper also and wants 3.5 hours labor to do the job.

 

Is this correct? Do you really have to remove the entire front bumper to change out this plastic trim piece? Has anyone out there replaced this piece without removing the front bumper?

 

Thanks for any assistance.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

I know that removing the bumper will make this a lot easier. Im not sure if it'll take 3.5 hours to do. If you feel confident with a wrench/ratchet you can do it yourself. If you have a friend that can come help you then it'll make it a lot easier. I know I can a have my front end off in about 25-30 minutes or maybe a little less from popping the hood to putting the bumper down on the ground (it would be about 15-20 minutes but my bull bar gets in the way). First time you remove the bumper it seems like the average number I've seen from a few ppl who have mentioned how long it took them, it's between about 45 minutes to an hour. Then changing you'll have to remove the black metal mounts that hook to the bumper that also mount the bumper to the truck. And once those are off then you can remove the tow hook surrounds as easily as possible. I had to remove mine early on in ownership to paint the insert in the bumper and reshape it when it got messed up from someone backing into it at Home Depot.

dboot66 Enthusiast

dboot66

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Appreciate the info. But, is there anyone who has changed out this part WITHOUT removing the front bumper? And, if so, can you give directions as how to do this?

MIameow Enthusiast

MIameow

Posted
Posted

So I really don't like the dark gray plastic trim piece that surrounds the front tow hooks on my 2015 Sierra SLT AT CC. I'm in the process of dechroming the entire truck, and also blacking out the grill. I know I could plasti-dip the dark gray piece, but I looked online and I purchased a new black (GM calls the color anthracite) tow hook surround piece for $69. It's a solid black plastic piece, and if it gets rock chips or anything it will still be black under the rock chip.

 

I have read on another thread that you probably have to remove the entire front lower bumper in order to change out this plastic trim piece. I took it to a body shop in town, and the guy said he needs to remove the bumper also and wants 3.5 hours labor to do the job.

 

Is this correct? Do you really have to remove the entire front bumper to change out this plastic trim piece? Has anyone out there replaced this piece without removing the front bumper?

 

Thanks for any assistance.

Could you list part # and where you purchased it from? Thanks

dboot66 Enthusiast

dboot66

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Could you list part # and where you purchased it from? Thanks

Part # 22902312 and I ordered it from iamgmparts.com

LaVaDog Enthusiast

LaVaDog

Posted
Posted

I nailed a huge boulder and scuffed the lower air dam, tow hook surround & license plate delete cover. I bought the tow hook surround from the dealer to replace it. One I got into the job, you have to remove the bumper to replace it. I just returned the part to the dealer. I guess I will just live with the scuff.

irish4life8911 Enthusiast

irish4life8911

Posted
Posted

I just want to follow this thread bc Ive been thinking about plasti dippin mine and removing the lower air valence.

 

In the process off dechroming mine too

  • 4 weeks later...
rdhower3 Enthusiast

rdhower3

Posted
Posted

Nope you have to remove the front bumper. It's actually very easy to do and not hard at all. I had to remove it to get one bolt out on the driver side tow hook to install my bully bar. It was a pain, because of the way they designed the whole front end and how everything is bolted together, but honestly it's not bad removing. First time seems kind of rough, but I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • mysery1
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By mysery1 · Posted

      I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • FiLo
      5.3 / 6.2 valve covers / oil burning

      By FiLo · Posted

      Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...