Jump to content

Throttle response on 6.2...

SoonerDPT

Recommended Posts

SoonerDPT Enthusiast

SoonerDPT

Posted
Posted

So I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a 2015 Iridium Denali with the 6.2 L. With that, I drove both that and a 2015 F150 Platinum with the Ecoboost yesterday. While overall, I like the Denali much better, I was significantly underwhelmed at the throttle response on the 6.2 compared to the Ecoboost. It just seemed like I really had to get into the throttle to get the truck to go. It made it feel as if the Ecoboost had a lot more torque, which I know isn't true. Does this get better or is there anything you can do to improve this?

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply
WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

You will need an aftermarket tune to address this. If a dealer tells you this will get better as the transmission "learns", they are lying. This has been an issue with the 5.3 and 6.2 with the 6spd. And the newer 6.2 with 8 spd also seem to have this.

SoonerDPT Enthusiast

SoonerDPT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks. That's what I was afraid of. I'm sure I would get used to the throttle, but my initial response is that I'm not crazy about it. I guess my next question would be: Can you get a custom tune and not mess with the warranty?

bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

Posted
Posted

Not to make your decision even harder, but I must respectfully disagree. The throttle teaponse does most certainly improve dramatically. In addition, YOUR calibration changes as well. A pedal with a 2" stroke will clearly feel much more "responsive" than a pedal with a 6" stroke since less pedal movement translates to greater throttle movement.

 

I'm not saying that the Ford pedal is shorter, but they do have different curves. But so does my wife's car.

 

If u want to speed things up, teach it what u want. If u want a snappy response, drive it like u stole it. U want a granny driving gas sipper? Piddle around and never make any quick changes, and never exceed 35% throttle.

ConnRadd Enthusiast

ConnRadd

Posted
Posted

I noticed with my 2012 Avalanche, at times it as a slow reaction once I hit the pedal. Then other times, it surprises the hell out of me. I kept thinking that GM programmed their system to not allow over acceleration, trying to keep stress off the drive chain; helping out on the 100k mile warranty.

CounterMeasure Enthusiast

CounterMeasure

Posted
Posted

The throttle response on my 6.2L Denali changed very little in the 4K miles I've driven in. I've babied it around and I've run it hard in all that time. Part of the throttle response issue is the time it takes the transmission to figure out exactly what it wants to do. Then it will open up. There have been times I've added some pedal and *nothing* happens, and then a little more finally gets some RPM or shift changes going. And it certainly isn't consistently predictable in my input vs its output.

 

Maybe the difference to my experience vs bdbake01 is the 8speed in mine.

WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Not to make your decision even harder, but I must respectfully disagree. The throttle teaponse does most certainly improve dramatically. In addition, YOUR calibration changes as well. A pedal with a 2" stroke will clearly feel much more "responsive" than a pedal with a 6" stroke since less pedal movement translates to greater throttle movement.

 

I'm not saying that the Ford pedal is shorter, but they do have different curves. But so does my wife's car.

 

If u want to speed things up, teach it what u want. If u want a snappy response, drive it like u stole it. U want a granny driving gas sipper? Piddle around and never make any quick changes, and never exceed 35% throttle.

I drove my 14' 5.3 for 15,000 miles before I was tired of it "learning". The factory TCM tune on these trucks blow and there are dozens of threads on this forum that cover, poor throttle response and lazy shifting. It also doesn't help that several truck reviews from very reputable magazines also make claim of poor throttle response.

 

I will tell you exactly the problems you will encounter while driving on a factory TCM tune;

  • Transmission always eager to get into 6th gear
  • Overextending 2nd gear past its power band while in partial throttle
  • Shifting early into 2nd, sometimes 3rd gear when pulling into the street.
  • While driving highway speeds needing to go nearly WOT to get the truck to downshift into the correct gear to get it up to passing speed.
  • Very high torque management from a stop

 

My tune fixed all of these and that is why I am so vocal about getting one to anyone who has any of the issues above. The transmission will only "learn" so much but it will not go past its set limits.

WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Thanks. That's what I was afraid of. I'm sure I would get used to the throttle, but my initial response is that I'm not crazy about it. I guess my next question would be: Can you get a custom tune and not mess with the warranty?

Unfortunately GM can go into the ECM/TCM and see a flash counter. While it won't exactly tell them there is a tune installed it can tell them how many times they have been flashed. They can then use this information and compare it to your service records. A tune will void your warranty, and if you are getting ANY clunking from the 8spd as some members have had here I would stay away from a tune till after 20-30k miles.

Silverado75 Enthusiast

Silverado75

Posted
Posted

I found exactly the same until i did the throttle boost on my Diablo tuner. absolutely night and day

bosro Enthusiast

bosro

Posted
Posted

High expectations when I took a 6.2L/8 speed for a test drive.

Completely underwhelmed by throttle response.

And it had the steering vibration thing going.

Didn't like it at all

SoonerDPT Enthusiast

SoonerDPT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Custom tune will make it drive like a vette. Stock 6.2 feels like a 4 cylinder.

 

 

Throttle boost and tuned it's a beast

 

Now you guys are speaking my language!! Now, how do I avoid any warranty issues...?

Isriam Enthusiast

Isriam

Posted
Posted

In truth no one here can say for fact that GM can see flashes, or flash counters. We've heard they can, and we know there are different methods to do this, but no one here knows exactly how and what. Diablosport claims they employ GM software engineers to prove their custom tunes cannot be seen after return to stock tune.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...