Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

That's a silly question IMO.

 

What you eat daily, and your exercise routine, if you have one will not and does not affect your accuracy with any firearm.

 

The only way to get better results is to learn proper technique and shooting fundamentals. Lifestyles has absolutely nothing to do with how well you can shoot, that all comes down to fundamentals.

 

You can decrease your accuracy at the range by elevating your heart rate immediately before shooting. That can simulate a high stress situation that you may encounter one day but other than that......

 

 

 

 

Sent from my crappy iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

Posted

That's a silly question IMO.

 

What you eat daily, and your exercise routine, if you have one will not and does not affect your accuracy with any firearm.

 

The only way to get better results is to learn proper technique and shooting fundamentals. Lifestyles has absolutely nothing to do with how well you can shoot, that all comes down to fundamentals.

 

You can decrease your accuracy at the range by elevating your heart rate immediately before shooting. That can simulate a high stress situation that you may encounter one day but other than that......

 

 

 

 

Sent from my crappy iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

Well exercise can with rifle shooting. If you have a weak supporting arm you won't last too long holding the rifle.
  • Like 1
Posted

Well exercise can with rifle shooting. If you have a weak supporting arm you won't last too long holding the rifle.

 

With proper technique, a small child and hold a rifle steady for hours.... Being efficient with any firearm is all about fundamentals, strength really has nothing to do with it.

 

Come on Chris!

If I remember correctly, you did the great and honorable deed of serving in our military, didn't they teach you guys that stuff in firearms? (I haven't had the pleasure of being in the service served so I am not aware of the firearms training you guys may get) Being strong may help a little but you get the technique down and your set!

Posted

 

With proper technique, a small child and hold a rifle steady for hours.... Being efficient with any firearm is all about fundamentals, strength really has nothing to do with it.

 

Come on Chris!

If I remember correctly, you did the great and honorable deed of serving in our military, didn't they teach you guys that stuff in firearms? (I haven't had the pleasure of being in the service served so I am not aware of the firearms training you guys may get) Being strong may help a little but you get the technique down and your set!

Your memory is correct, but the shooting i did was just annual qualifications. M16A2. Was only like 150 rds. I was a aircraft hydraulic tech.
  • Like 1
Posted

I would say yeah a healthier diet and stronger muscles will lead to a better experience in anything.

 

Think about how those bad asses that do biathlons ski for 13-26 miles with a couple stops to shoot. One stop standing and one stop prone. One of my favorite olympic events to watch. Takes some strength and hella focus. You don't want to mess up, as it results in penalty skiing.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I would say yeah a healthier diet and stronger muscles will lead to a better experience in anything.

 

Think about how those bad asses that do biathlons ski for 13-26 miles with a couple stops to shoot. One stop standing and one stop prone. One of my favorite olympic events to watch. Takes some strength and hella focus. You don't want to mess up, as it results in penalty skiing.

 

Agreed. That's why the young fight the wars of the old.

 

But then, standing calmly at the range and shooting paper probably won't change much if you're Joe-bag-o-donuts or a Tri-athlete.

Edited by spurshot
Posted

Spent 23 years in the military, Security Forces. Carried the 9mm, 38 revolver, M16 rifle, M203 grenade launcher, and the M60 machine gun throughout my entire career. Fired thousands of rounds, expert shot with all the weapons (although the M60 and M203 are like horseshoes, just need to get close). My favorite was the grenade launcher, I could consistently lob a round through a window at 100 yards.

 

Fundamentals in everything are important, but diet and exercise does affect marksmanship. We were required to run and jump to get the heart rate up before firing, you did not qualify with the weapon if you didn't maintain an exercise program.

  • Like 2
Posted

While strength isn't a requirement for shooting, it doesn't hurt to have some. Also just because someone is dieting and exercising doesn't mean they are strength training. A good cardiovascular system can improve shooting, not as well as fundamentals and training, but every little bit helps. Exercise lowers the overall heart rate, relieves stress, releases chemical stuffs, slower breathing rate, etc. All good things to have when shooting, especially long distance.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 years later...
Posted

Have you ever watched shooting competitions, some of the best shooters in the world are out of shape and old. Physical health would play a role in shooting competitions that require movement, however. But, standing still and shooting a paper target would not be effected.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I will say no.

 

I shoot quite a bit and some of the best handgun shooters I know are older and not in particularly good shape. Handgun shooting comes down to fundamentals and technique which can only be gained by putting lots of rounds down range.

Posted

I will say no.

 

I shoot quite a bit and some of the best handgun shooters I know are older and not in particularly good shape. Handgun shooting comes down to fundamentals and technique which can only be gained by putting lots of rounds down range.

^^ this ^^
Posted (edited)

The best action game shooters (IPSC, 3-gun, etc.,) shooters are in good physical condition. Skeet, trap, etc, are a fat bunch. Bullseye match handgun are an old bunch and are an example of adapting the rules to help keep the largely aging/poor vision participants competitive by allowing optics into the rules . Benchrest guys can be a fairly old bunch.

 

Im getting to what many would call older age, my early 60s. Ive always been an avid shooter of rifle, handgun and shotgun sports. I would call myself above average , but not gifted. The gifted shooter has a central nervous system that works faster than the average person. These are the Jerry Miculek, George Digweed, Rob Leatham, and pro athletes from other sports that require exceptional hand-eye coordination. Ive seen a pro baseball player pick up a shotgun and shoot better than most shooters with decades of shooting. These people see and react faster than us regular folk. They see things in slow motion compared to average people. You cant train this. You either have it or not. You can only train what to expect and what to do.

Edited by spurshot
Posted

To me any time you improve your health it will have a positive effect on your life no matter what you do. It just makes sense.

 

Feed you body quality fuel and exercise to stay fit and it can only improve your life. Steadier hand, better eye sight, lower blood pressure, stronger muscle tone, how can this not help?

 

Feed you vehicle junk fuel, don't add aftermarket mods and it will not preform better. Kind of the same concept.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...