Anyone have any issues with there high beams

[Daimon Derouin]

I had it hooked in with the fuse before and all was good. There's constant power at the fuse when the high beams are on. All I did was put a switch in the positive wire to the light bar so I could choose if the light bar was on with the high beams or not. All would of been good had it not arced when it was wired. Clearly the fuse in that slot is too large cuz it should of blown first.

[Daimon Derouin]

If this is the case it sounds like you may have fried the high beam shutter output signal from the controller (body control module?). You probably need to check that signal with a voltmeter.

 

I take it your headlight bulbs still come on with low beam and high beam, but the high beam shutter doesn't work anymore to refocus the bulb output up higher on high beam.

Yeah I had checked before and there is no power going to the fuse that goes to the solenoids in each headlight. I can hear it click but no juice. Lights still work and come on when there supposed to just no power going to the shutters.

[Silverado4x4]

Well if that's the case with no power going to the fuse block then you popped something in the BCM for the shutters. I don't know how much amps and watts your light bar is drawing but there is no way I would tie them into the trucks stock circuit, keep in mind just because it worked before without popping a fuse doesn't mean you cant have a melt down and then a fire. Your light bar needs to be wired separate from your trucks wiring. Everything can STILL overheat without blowing a fuse. The trucks stock wiring is not designed to handle all that extra amp draw.

[Daimon Derouin]

Well if that's the case with no power going to the fuse block then you popped something in the BCM for the shutters. I don't know how much amps and watts your light bar is drawing but there is no way I would tie them into the trucks stock circuit, keep in mind just because it worked before without popping a fuse doesn't mean you cant have a melt down and then a fire. Your light bar needs to be wired separate from your trucks wiring. Everything can STILL overheat without blowing a fuse. The trucks stock wiring is not designed to handle all that extra amp draw.

Yeah fair enough. It's only one and its only 10 inches. I don't think one is dangerous but I could see someone having a couple 20s tied into the system could cause issues along with a couple other auxiliary things could start something.

[nadrojcote]

Its not the size thats the matter. the problem is you tied it into something that isn't meant to handle any more current than it had. Your best bet is to remove everything. Take your name off of this site so gm reps don't see this, as they monitor these forums. Then go to the dealer.

[nadrojcote]

If you hear a click its probably a bad relay.

[Rme2513]

Computers suck don't they well you better hide all the evidence and take it to the dealer or come clean with one you have not pissed off and hope he helps you out but yeah I'm with them you tied into the wrong wire And fried a trace on the board trying to run your light bar