Jump to content

110V Electrical Outlet Specs

TxTruckMan
 Share

Recommended Posts

kp52 Enthusiast

kp52

Posted
Posted

Rams are 150w.too.

 

Fords 400 watt inverter :)

 

 

 

Nothing is perfect for everyone..

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Newell33
Newell33
roadblock
roadblock

You will be fine, I have done this many times with no issue.  

sahls01gmc
sahls01gmc

^^^^^^^^^ 150 watts = 120volts x 1.25amps.   The inverter only puts out 150 watts.

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

400W is still useless.

 

400W/120V=3.3 amp

 

Normal household 120v circuits are 15A.

f8l vnm Senior Enthusiast

f8l vnm

Posted
Posted

My direct plug in will not charge my laptop. Dealer says it's not meant for that.

  • 2 years later...
DHaze83 Enthusiast

DHaze83

Posted
Posted

My question is, does anyone know where this inverter is actually located. Plan on swapping out and adding a second battery. Would like to know the location so i dont have to go on an easter egg hunt. Id imagine being 150w that its probably buried somewhere in the console or dash cause its so small. 

  • 6 months later...
Vickie Wells New Member

Vickie Wells

Posted
Posted

Its 400 watt can run anything that pulls less than 400. Best is anything that pulls 200 or less.400 watt pull will probably pop the fuse. Alternating current is in waves low and highs D.C. current is a constant. No peaks. I'm a truck driver and use a 2000 watt inventor in the truck. Also keep on mind anything that produces heat. Blowdryer heater heat gun pulls a lot . check out the item to see what it pulls.and Will have to run the pickup to keep from running the battery dead. Personally the idea of a 400 watt 110 in the bed is s bad and not very useful idea

 

  • 8 months later...
CliffyCan New Member

CliffyCan

Posted
Posted
On 7/28/2015 at 1:08 PM, Texas Sticks said:

Okay. Here's the equation:

 

P=VI (Power (watts) = Voltage (volts) x Current (amps))

 

With the numbers provided above, the available current (I, in amps)

should be...

 

I = 150/12 = 12.5 A

 

Yes, I am a physics nerd.

Yes a nerd....but most nerds are intelligent, which apparently you are not!

CliffyCan New Member

CliffyCan

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 7/28/2015 at 1:08 PM, Texas Sticks said:

Okay. Here's the equation:

 

P=VI (Power (watts) = Voltage (volts) x Current (amps))

 

With the numbers provided above, the available current (I, in amps)

should be...

 

I = 150/12 = 12.5 A

 

Yes, I am a physics nerd.

 

Edited by CliffyCan
  • 1 year later...
BRMiusMAXimus New Member

BRMiusMAXimus

Posted
Posted
On 7/28/2015 at 11:24 PM, Newell33 said:

Yes, I understand the equation and the relationship. What I'd like to see is a 350w inverter. This would allow for about a 3 amp outlet, which would be adequate for that 18v charger that we talked about earlier. Yes, this would be about a 30 amp load at 12 volts. Assuming the inverter is behind the socket in the dash, and the wiring being no longer than 8-10 feet routed (probably less),10 gauge wire could be used. I know copper is expensive, but it would be nice to have something a bit more powerful.

What everyone is neglecting to see here, is that the current out in AC is 1/10th the 12VDC current. So sure, everyone wants to gripe and complain that 1.25A/150W IS TOO SMALL. So double that, you have now effectively quartered or worse the remaining current from the alternator. The battery can handle loads well enough,  but in worse weather, and several starts/stops, it could get dicey. I know my outlet only works with the truck on. Hook an inverter directly to the battery, and you are asking to be stranded in a parking lot somewhere when you forget to turn it off. Car design is all about managing the balance of creature comforts, production costs,  and efficiency,  while minimizing service calls and warranty repairs. 

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Skiller67 New Member

Skiller67

Posted
Posted
On 7/28/2015 at 1:59 PM, sahls01gmc said:

^^^^^^^^^ 150 watts = 120volts x 1.25amps.

 

The inverter only puts out 150 watts.

the inverter puts out voltage.   current is the amount of electrons flowing.....the correct way to say this is 150 Watts is the max current allowed before its breaker cuts it off (to protect wiring and other components from melting).     150W?    That's it?   This is quite disappointing.     My new 21 barely allows 130 watts.    I've got a laptop plugged in and the power adapter has a max draw of 130.    The first couple of times I plugged it in the internal breaker tripped it.   A few four letter words were said and it must have heard me because it started working.    At first i had both laptop and printer plugged before know the max draw through this outlet was 150w and it wasn't having it.     I think i'll have to run to HF and buy a power inverter that will allow my printer as well.

  • 2 years later...
cash360 New Member

cash360

Posted
Posted
On 7/28/2015 at 12:08 PM, Texas Sticks said:

Okay. Here's the equation:

 

P=VI (Power (watts) = Voltage (volts) x Current (amps))

 

With the numbers provided above, the available current (I, in amps)

should be...

 

I = 150/12 = 12.5 A

 

Yes, I am a physics nerd.

Sorry physics nerd, but the proper calculation is 1.25 amps!

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • KARNUT
      AFM Experience

      By KARNUT · Posted

      The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Experience

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...