Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yes, I understand the equation and the relationship. What I'd like to see is a 350w inverter. This would allow for about a 3 amp outlet, which would be adequate for that 18v charger that we talked about earlier. Yes, this would be about a 30 amp load at 12 volts. Assuming the inverter is behind the socket in the dash, and the wiring being no longer than 8-10 feet routed (probably less),10 gauge wire could be used. I know copper is expensive, but it would be nice to have something a bit more powerful.

 

I understand that never will everyone be happy. So, you have to draw the line somewhere. Largely, I don't believe these outlets even get used. The fact that I'm -already- paying for something in my truck that is of no value to me is irritating. Having to pay even MORE for heavier duty wiring and a larger inverter would be even more irritating. I get what you're saying, but I (and MANY others) don't want to be paying for features that only a handful of people actually need or will use. I would much rather this not be present AT ALL and buy an aftermarket inverter to plug into the accessory outlet.

 

A really small laptop. As I mentioned earlier, a high performance laptop like the Alienware can't even be on, and charge at the same time on this outlet.

 

We all understand that it's for light, intermittent use. But at what point is it useless? I think that is the point I'm trying to make. It's useless. Just a marketing gimmick.

 

Here's the real question of the day... Who the hell still uses a portable DVD player? Even 2 year-olds and grandparents use iPads now.

 

Yep. Understood. The bigger laptops have the higher current draw adapters. That's largely to be able to supply enough power to charge while also driving the large screen.

 

The example of a portable DVD player was generic. :)

 

 

The Ford F150 has a 400W inverter, is Chevy not capable of the same engineering? if not, I guess we should swap to Ford.

 

Ford Website: "110-volt/400-watt Power Inverter "http://www.ford.com/trucks/f150/trim/lariat/viewall/

 

It amazes me how many otherwise reasonably mature people have temper tantrums like a 3yo over such petty stuff. Really? You're going to dump your $40k plus truck and buy a -FORD- because of a $30 accessory you can buy in a parts store? Honestly, I wish more people WOULD jump ship for reasons like this. GM would cut their pricing to win people over, and in doing so, might even pull some of these useless accessories out of the truck altogether. That would make the truck lighter, it would get better MPG...

 

Yes. Please go buy a Ford. There's no downside for anyone, really.

Posted

 

 

You're going to dump your $40k plus truck and buy a -FORD- because of a $30 accessory you can buy in a parts store? Honestly, I wish more people WOULD jump ship for reasons like this. GM would cut their pricing to win people over, and in doing so, might even pull some of these useless accessories out of the truck altogether. That would make the truck lighter, it would get better MPG...

 

 

The Ford get better gas mileage...and is lighter...

Posted

 

The Ford get better gas mileage...and is lighter...

 

And it has rear seat vents. And a real AC inverter.

 

Still wouldn't own one. Lol!

  • Like 1
Posted

 

The Ford get better gas mileage...and is lighter...

 

 

Fords are barely lighter, if any. The 700 pound claim they use is bull. Realistically maybe 2-300 seems about the norm when comparing similar trucks. And mileage isn't that much better in the real world.

 

 

As for the outlet, if availability of a more powerful AC outlet is a deciding factor, more power to you.

Posted

While I am not surprised GM put as small an inverter as it can get in there so they can claim the outlet as a marketing checkmark, I am surprised they do not offer a "workman package" option that upgrades the inverter to something much more useful to charge or run bigger stuff. A workman being able to charge Li-Ion tool batteries between jobs is useful. Its obviously a bolt-on item, and running heavier wire is easy in the manufacturing process. It looks like they do that depending on the radio options. Maybe a future option..

Posted

A really small laptop. As I mentioned earlier, a high performance laptop like the Alienware can't even be on, and charge at the same time on this outlet.

 

We all understand that it's for light, intermittent use. But at what point is it useless? I think that is the point I'm trying to make. It's useless. Just a marketing gimmick.

 

Here's the real question of the day... Who the hell still uses a portable DVD player? Even 2 year-olds and grandparents use iPads now.

 

Really small laptop? Both my MacBook Pros have/had 90 or 95 watt power bricks and my tank of an HP from work it the same. I'm sure there are some that use more juice but they're gonna be the exception to the rule.

Posted

The 5.0 in my 2012 Ford work truck gets almost the same mileage I am getting out of Silverado, about 18 to 19 mpg in the summer. I was hoping the cylinder deactivation would get better real world mpg's than the Ford 5.0 but in my case it doesn't. I will say IMO that the DI 5.3 power curve is quite a bit better than the 5.0. I am glad this thread got started because I just assumed the AC outlet would power most small electrical items but now I am going to test my air pump and a few other things before I got camping or to the drive in.

Posted

The 5.0 in my 2012 Ford work truck gets almost the same mileage I am getting out of Silverado, about 18 to 19 mpg in the summer. I was hoping the cylinder deactivation would get better real world mpg's than the Ford 5.0 but in my case it doesn't. I will say IMO that the DI 5.3 power curve is quite a bit better than the 5.0. I am glad this thread got started because I just assumed the AC outlet would power most small electrical items but now I am going to test my air pump and a few other things before I got camping or to the drive in.

 

The popcorn popper will be too much. :)

  • Like 2
Posted

Not caring about the wattage of the outlet, I have not had a single problem using mine for anything I have plugged in it. I charge my laptop, a battery charger and a small emergency air compressor. The A/C outlet seems to work perfectly for its designed proposes. I'm not a carpenter with my truck on a job sight but if I was I would have inverter installed and hooked up to the battery if needing to run high powered items. Or use a portable generator.

Posted

Okay. Here's the equation:

 

P=VI (Power (watts) = Voltage (volts) x Current (amps))

 

With the numbers provided above, the available current (I, in amps)

should be...

 

I = 150/12 = 12.5 A

 

Yes, I am a physics nerd.

That's at 12 volts input. Divide by 110 volts output gives you 1.36amps at 110 volts which isn't a whole lot. It's designed to run computers etc.

Posted (edited)

Even the outlet in the Tacoma bed is 400w. Plus you only need the heavier guage wire to the inverter, not to the plug. The cost wouldn't be that much more....

Edited by bmf4069
  • 5 months later...
  • 6 months later...
Posted

I'm going to assume that I cannot plug in our 30a to 15a adapter to connect our travel trailer power to that plug and run the AC? :)

Posted (edited)

It would be nice to have a 400 W power inverter or come standard like the ford does

Edited by f8l vnm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,078 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...