Jump to content

GM 13577429, correct code for Gen V flex fuel sensor?


crafferty

Recommended Posts

Posted

That's the one I ordered and have sitting in my toolbox but I haven't installed yet so can't "verify" it works.

 

I believe Higgs has installed one and may be able to chime in or you can PM him

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

Posted

My tuner, whom I haven't visited yet with this truck, said he can covert me to flex with a sensor swap.

 

I think I'm gonna go for it, as I want to tune out 4cyl mode anyway.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Posted

My tuner, whom I haven't visited yet with this truck, said he can covert me to flex with a sensor swap.

 

I think I'm gonna go for it, as I want to tune out 4cyl mode anyway.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

That is correct.

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

Posted

That's the one I ordered and have sitting in my toolbox but I haven't installed yet so can't "verify" it works.

I believe Higgs has installed one and may be able to chime in or you can PM him

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

Great, I figured it was the correct sensor but whenever I google the damn thing it keeps saying 2012-2013 Impala. I would PM Higgs but I believe he tuned his without the use of the sensor. I actually just signed up for a BlackBear Performance tuning session when they come to Atlanta in October this fall. Pretty excited to finally get my truck tuned and excited to see the dyno numbers for E85 and 93 compared to stock (350/380).

 

My tuner, whom I haven't visited yet with this truck, said he can covert me to flex with a sensor swap.

 

I think I'm gonna go for it, as I want to tune out 4cyl mode anyway.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

You actually do not need the sensor to run E85 but if you have the sensor then you can actually switch between the fuels without changing tunes. That's the biggest reason why I would like the sensor since E85 isn't the easiest to find around me sometimes.

Posted

 

You actually do not need the sensor to run E85 but if you have the sensor then you can actually switch between the fuels without changing tunes. That's the biggest reason why I would like the sensor since E85 isn't the easiest to find around me sometimes.

 

Ah, didn't know you could run e85 on tune only and not need the updated sensor, thank you!

 

However, I will probably play it safe and swap the sensor so I can run either/or and not worry about it.

Posted

 

Ah, didn't know you could run e85 on tune only and not need the updated sensor, thank you!

 

However, I will probably play it safe and swap the sensor so I can run either/or and not worry about it.

Yeah I mean for $60 shipped why not run the sensor.

Posted

Yeah I mean for $60 shipped why not run the sensor.

 

Exactly!

Posted

 

Exactly!

Well I just went ahead and purchase my sensor off Amazon for a whooping total of $13.52 shipped to my door. Turns out someone had it on sale for $50 shipped and I had $37 in amazon credits on my account. Not a bad score if I must say so myself.

Posted

Well I just went ahead and purchase my sensor off Amazon for a whooping total of $13.52 shipped to my door. Turns out someone had it on sale for $50 shipped and I had $37 in amazon credits on my account. Not a bad score if I must say so myself.

 

Can you link me to it. I think I have some credit to burn there too ;).

Posted

 

Can you link me to it. I think I have some credit to burn there too ;).

I ended up buying the only one they had in stock. But another company has it for $59.99 on amazon with free shipping.

Posted

Bugger, I only have 8.22 in credits :P

Posted

Just curious: is the only difference between flex and non-flex the sensor, wiring, and some programming? All trucks get the same tank hardware and plumbing, for instance?

 

Reason I'm asking is that I've had to replace an inordinate number of in-tank fuel pumps and level sensors on some older vehicles due, according to the various shops, the adverse effects of alcohol on equipment that wasn't designed appropriately for it. I'm assuming then that those parts on our trucks are designed for use with E85 which ought to make them well tolerant of E10.

Posted

Just curious: is the only difference between flex and non-flex the sensor, wiring, and some programming? All trucks get the same tank hardware and plumbing, for instance?

 

Reason I'm asking is that I've had to replace an inordinate number of in-tank fuel pumps and level sensors on some older vehicles due, according to the various shops, the adverse effects of alcohol on equipment that wasn't designed appropriately for it. I'm assuming then that those parts on our trucks are designed for use with E85 which ought to make them well tolerant of E10.

 

With just about everyone serving E10 now I think manufacturers have pretty much adjusted their seals, lines and hardware to handle the change. That's really not an issue though since these trucks are E85 capable anyway and I can't imagine different pumps, hardware and lines being in each. That's pure speculation though, checking part numbers would be only way to verify

 

 

 

Wiring these things up is the only reason I haven't done it yet. I need to find a pigtail that fits the sensor.

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

Posted

With just about everyone serving E10 now I think manufacturers have pretty much adjusted their seals, lines and hardware to handle the change. That's really not an issue though since these trucks are E85 capable anyway and I can't imagine different pumps, hardware and lines being in each. That's pure speculation though, checking part numbers would be only way to verify

 

 

 

Wiring these things up is the only reason I haven't done it yet. I need to find a pigtail that fits the sensor.

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

Shoot I was under the impression the flex fuel sensor was plug and play. I had read there is already a connector hanging out down there but it has a cover on it. I just have to check out a L83 with flex fuel and see what they are using to connect the fuel lines.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see.   I think this is what I'm looking for.   3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL
    • Then you haven't read your book. It also says check every 400 miles.   If you need to add multiple quarts in that distance then reading the stick isn't the issue. Put the two together and it will make sense. Read it all.     
    • Following up on my topic, I put an O2 sensor in it which seems to have got rid of all the b2s1 codes (I ended up having multiple codes). Next I’ll try to figure out the P0011 but I might focus on exhaust manifolds first, they’re getting pretty rusty. I’m hoping this thread will help someone in the future.
    • I’m going off the instructions.
    • My expectations are a bit higher.    No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights.  No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier.    All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things.  Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior.    Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system.    OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)   I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass.    A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years.      Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...