Would the best option be to use a local dealer? I'll be flying into town, most dealers I've called want to charge to do a used car inspection. Can get expensive if I'm comparing 3+ trucks on the same day, not to mention scheduling.
All I see on CARFAX reports is "Engine/powertrain checked" or "Emissions system serviced" and on a few, "Transmission replaced" or "Valve body replaced" which is concerning. A lot of "Transmission Replaced" prior to 140k so I guess I'll have to plan for some extra cash in case of an emergency.
Is it normal for the 10L80 to downshift hard and flare when coming to a stop? I've now experienced it enough (along with some rear end noise when test driving) that I don't know what's a normal 10L80 in non-sport or Tow-Haul mode. Some trucks downshifted cleanly, others lurched and jerked as the RPMs jumped around even in Normal mode.
I'd go right back to the dealer. If I didn't get satisfaction there, I'd go to a different one. If not there, I'd contact GM. It's under warranty. It's their issue to fix.
A lot of people also forget the old 6spd was pretty good at the torque converter snout wearing into the front of the trans case. Pretty common issue. 6spd was not a perfect trans by any means.
Third time. Some consumption is 'masked' by fuel dilution, soot formation, acid formation of blowby gasses. Oil consumed offset by degradation products produced. 2 to 8% How much is that of your sump volume? for Pepper that is 4 ounces to a pint of oil.
Why is everyone aware that we check transmission fluids at operating temperatures due to thermal expansion and ignorant or at least dismissive about this issue for the engine oil?
Ever allow a motor to drain at oil change for a period of 'overnight"? Measure on the dipstick every quarter hour for say 2 hours and educate yourself. Then let is sit overnight (cooler) and ask the expansion and dilution questions again. 😉
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