Jump to content

Lets see thoes Backrack/Headache racks ?!? POST


Recommended Posts

Posted

So far this is the only picture of my truck I have, so you might have seen it already.

 

 

IMG_20151029_161320745_HDR_zpsagflhcnz.j

 

I have a Safety Rack with rails.

 

I am happy with the setup. Was very easy to install and is very stout.

 

I have a Back Bar as well, but won't fit with the rails. I am going to fab up a custom bracket so I can attach the bar to the rails easily.

Posted

I have the original back rack mounted on my 2015 and it's the same kit since 2007 so it's easy to get and still simple to install. They are solid when they are mounted and I use mine as I only put racks on work truck junk lol. No pictures since I put it on... hardest thing to do was cut the front stake pocket holes out and it wasn't hard anyway.. I just was careful with a box cutter. This is my fifth back rack now. Canadian Tire up here puts them on sale for cheap quite often and the fact they don't screw up the truck to install makes them all the better. I am hoping this 2015 ends up being a good truck as I get tired of loading my tool chest and 48x40x12 packrat back into my rotting into the ground 160000 mile 05 Sierra and bringing it back from retirement. All I know about my Silverado thus far is it's 6.2 is fun to drive!

Sent from a potato

Posted

I have thought of getting one from Protech

Posted

So far this is the only picture of my truck I have, so you might have seen it already.

 

 

IMG_20151029_161320745_HDR_zpsagflhcnz.j

 

I have a Safety Rack with rails.

 

I am happy with the setup. Was very easy to install and is very stout.

 

I have a Back Bar as well, but won't fit with the rails. I am going to fab up a custom bracket so I can attach the bar to the rails easily.

real nice setup

Posted

I went with the DeeZee headache rack(s) because I liked the way they looked and the hard angles. So far they have worked pretty great and were an easy install, the only problem was with the damn shipping company taking about 3 months to get them to me...

 

Here's a few horrible pictures I snapped the other day, you get the idea at least.

 

YEGZIX.jpg

 

4C6TWz.jpg

Posted

I am looking to get something so I can carry my kayaks but need a set that will be easy to put on and take off and work with a tonneau. Have even contemplated making a set. Hope I can get some good ideas from you all! tracrac_tracone_kayaks.jpg

Posted

I wouldn't mind a simple back rack just to keep the back window safe with the atv in there.

 

Looking forward to seeing more pics

Posted

20151108_092652_zpsswbinywv.jpg

 

20151108_092714_zps5ckkqz5z.jpg

 

Mine. Somewhat set up for work but still missing my weather guard slider. Once the slop freezes at work I will swap over to this truck completely.

 

Sent from a potato

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 years later...
Posted

I got this not to long ago and this is what it looks like so far. The lights on it I ended up removing since they didnt work. But looking to put on some LED pod lights to replace it. Trying to decided between a flood pattern light or spot pattern. Not sure what would be best. Mainly would be used for loading and unloading once it is dark. Then can turn one to another location if needed.

20200109_211037.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Guy I am looking to add a backrack and found the backrack 15004 at mytruckpoint.ca for $186, will it work for Tundra and GMC Sierra 1500? 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,980
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Fishboat
    Newest Member
    Fishboat
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 623 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...