Jump to content

thoughts on a jayco toy hauler on a 1500 silverado

rcmike

By rcmike
in Towing, Hauling & Hitches

Recommended Posts

rcmike Enthusiast

rcmike

Posted
Posted

The toy hauler weighs 6400lbs dry. I will probably put around 1000lbs in it which includes the water tanks, dirt bikes ,food. Do you think that much weight {7400 } is pushing the envelope of strain on a 14 CC 1500 Silverado 5.3l . the book says it will tow about 9k,but I want the truck to last about 2 more years with out any tranny problems. I will be using a WDH with sway control .

poitras.matt@gmail.com Enthusiast

[email protected]

Posted
Posted

I'll bet you add far more than 1000lbs to it. Batteries. Propane. Hitch. Full water is about 4-600lbs on most rvs.

 

Not saying it won't do it. But keep in mind that toy haulers are built tongue heavy to compensate for the potential added weight in the rear from the toys.

 

Buddy with the max tow f150 just upgraded to an f350 because his jayco toyhauler with an at va and dirt bike was too much. (Probaby same size youre looking at) And that truck was rater for 11000

 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

rcmike Enthusiast

rcmike

Posted
  • Author
Posted

3.42 is rear end gear,,,, I'm not going to fill the water tanks to capacity. My trips will only be one to three day trips, battery and propane is in the 6400 pound number. Its just food, toys (dirt bike is roughly 215 pounds) or toy. I read somewhere that you only want to go up to 75 or 80 % of your towing capacity to be safe with a comfort zone, anyone else heard something like that ? thx

grampadirt Senior Enthusiast

grampadirt

Posted
Posted

I'll bet you add far more than 1000lbs to it. Batteries. Propane. Hitch. Full water is about 4-600lbs on most rvs.

 

Not saying it won't do it. But keep in mind that toy haulers are built tongue heavy to compensate for the potential added weight in the rear from the toys.

 

Buddy with the max tow f150 just upgraded to an f350 because his jayco toyhauler with an at va and dirt bike was too much. (Probaby same size youre looking at) And that truck was rater for 11000

 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

This.

 

I made the same mistake.I tried towing my toy hauler with wife's '99 Suburban K1500(with tow pkg.)and got scared the first time I tried to stop.Went to the local scales and weighed it....7,700lbs..Dry weight of the trailer is 5,000lbs.It's easy to add a lot of weight to it.With four dirtbikes,a little quad,a portable Honda generator,food camping gear,firewood and fresh water(at 8lbs. per gallon even 50 gal. weighs in at 400lbs.) it was just too much for the 1/2t. Burb so I bought a '95 3/4t 4x4 Burb with a big block and 4l80e trans and it's been doing great for almost eight years now.

 

So a word to the wise....careful how much weight you pull(and stop) with the 1/2t truck.

 

I would agree on the 80% tow amount.A safety zone is a good thing.

rcmike Enthusiast

rcmike

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This.

 

I made the same mistake.I tried towing my toy hauler with wife's '99 Suburban K1500(with tow pkg.)and got scared the first time I tried to stop.Went to the local scales and weighed it....7,700lbs..Dry weight of the trailer is 5,000lbs.It's easy to add a lot of weight to it.With four dirtbikes,a little quad,a portable Honda generator,food camping gear,firewood and fresh water(at 8lbs. per gallon even 50 gal. weighs in at 400lbs.) it was just too much for the 1/2t. Burb so I bought a '95 3/4t 4x4 Burb with a big block and 4l80e trans and it's been doing great for almost eight years now.

 

So a word to the wise....careful how much weight you pull(and stop) with the 1/2t truck.

 

I would agree on the 80% tow amount.A safety zone is a good thing.

. Im curious, do you use a brake controller ? I've got a p3 right now that I use for a cargo trailer and works like a dream. I plan on readjusting it when I get the TH or TT cause there also equipped with brakes. Thx
grampadirt Senior Enthusiast

grampadirt

Posted
Posted

. Im curious, do you use a brake controller ? I've got a p3 right now that I use for a cargo trailer and works like a dream. I plan on readjusting it when I get the TH or TT cause there also equipped with brakes. Thx

Yes,I use a P2.Works great.Every time I hook up the toy hauler I re-adjust the controller due to the weight in the trailer can be different each time.

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

Yes,I use a P2.Works great.Every time I hook up the toy hauler I re-adjust the controller due to the weight in the trailer can be different time.

Get a p3 and have dofferent memory settings
GsBowtie Enthusiast

GsBowtie

Posted
Posted

I think it's doable but double check your weights. I pull a 6k loaded weight tt with my 15 silverado and it pulls and stops it just fine. I do use a wdh and i tow with all tanks dry.

 

But i also have a family of 4 and bed loaded with gear and firewood.

 

Yes it gets worked in the mountains but any small block with that much weight would.

 

I also don't think the comparison between the 99 burb and 14 silverado towing is valid. These new trucks have extremely good brakes compared to that generation burb and pickups. I had an 89 k1500. Night and day difference all the way around. Today's half ton trucks are many times rated for over 3/4 ton of pay. I believe my truck is rated for 1740.

Blue2500CC Enthusiast

Blue2500CC

Posted
Posted

3.42 is rear end gear,,,, I'm not going to fill the water tanks to capacity. My trips will only be one to three day trips, battery and propane is in the 6400 pound number. Its just food, toys (dirt bike is roughly 215 pounds) or toy. I read somewhere that you only want to go up to 75 or 80 % of your towing capacity to be safe with a comfort zone, anyone else heard something like that ? thx

The biggest hurdle for a 1500/150 truck/suv is not the total trailer weight, it is the rated payload capacity for your actual truck.

 

There is a sticker in the drivers door jamb that states, "All passengers/occupants and cargo must not exceed XXXXlbs". This amount is specific for your truck. As stated, all passengers in the truck (including the driver), any cargo weight in the cab or bed, any accessories added to the truck after it left the factory (step bars, mud flaps, tonneau cover, etc), the wdh (weight distribution hitch) - about 100lbs depending on model , AND the tw (tongue weight) of the trailer must all be included toward this rated cargo capacity of your truck's yellow payload sticker. And the rear axle rating is the next hurdle for 1500's.

 

In looking at Jayco's site, I am guessing you are looking at the Octane Super Lite 273. The manufactures "brochure" dry weight does not include options, sometimes even those options which are mandatory. As you stated, you need to add the battery and propane weight as well. Know that the "dry" tw does not include the propane or a battery either. That adds about 160lbs for 2-30lb tanks and a battery.l, about 120lbs for 2-20lb tanks and battery.

 

The average family/person adds about 1,000lbs to a trailer as built empty weight. Being a toy hauler, how many dirt bikes? One post you said "dirt bikes", then another stated "toys, dirt bike or toys"... What else may you pack?

 

How many are in the family that would be going camping most of the time. What do you plan on hauling in the bed of the truck when towing? Looking at the floorplan (if the correct one), it looks like (educated guess) the waste tanks, and probably the fresh water tank are located forward of the axles. If so, that will add to the tw as well once loaded, even with a dirt bike or two loaded in the back.

 

Will your truck pull ~8000lbs, yes it will. I have towed ~7200lbs with a '10-1500 CCSB 4x4 w/ a 5.3/6spd/3.42 combo. Never felt I needed more power, and with the new gen trucks having more power now, it will do it. BUT....

 

The major concern is you may be over your truck's rated payload. Knowing how much the passengers weigh, and if you will have anything in the bed will help further answer the question.

 

With our '10 loaded up for a trip, with 4 bikes and a tool box in the bed, we were over our gvwr by up to 200lbs depending on just how we were loaded. And just under the rear axle rating by 40-50lbs. This was towing the travel trailer that was ~7200lbs, ~920lbs tw.

 

If you do go for it, I would highly suggest at the minimum adding a set of LT tires, at least LR C's. P rated tires can/will have side wall flex when towing heavier, having what I refer to as the p-rated "wiggle". Feels like the rear of the truck is moving back and forth (side to side) as you travel down the road.

 

Good luck, and post back with some more info.

rcmike Enthusiast

rcmike

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Blue2500CC- I will post and let you know. thanks for the response.

  • 4 weeks later...
rcmike Enthusiast

rcmike

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update- New toy to haul the toy hauler, thread can die now,,lol thanks for all the advice

post-131250-0-04137600-1453091381_thumb.jpg

post-131250-0-04137600-1453091381_thumb.jpg

post-131250-0-04137600-1453091381_thumb.jpg

post-131250-0-04137600-1453091381_thumb.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Of course actually engaging four wheel drive is step one or even daring to use a ramp like that with a two wheel drive and getting into a mess because of it. As to 4 low, these last few years if its a GM half ton it may not even have low range. A lot of the newer pickups have a lot lower first gear in an automatic transmission then they once did as it was common at one time for a gas engine truck or even the older diesels to just sit there and bog the engine due to the torque converter stall point and not enough torque was generated on reasonable traction to even spin a tire or get out of its own way up a steep grade and 4 low HAD to be used to get enough power to four tires to get them turning. These days traction control systems may hinder a vehicle in a situation like that although that means a tire or tires are spinning so in some ways the traction control can reduce wild spinning and anyone can correct me on that but I think some vehicles cut traction control off in low range ?.    By the sounds of it and you may have the proper equipment but if your responsible for helping vehicles out if they are not able to get out under their own power, I would say to be using a nylon tow rope or have one available so that one is able to give a bit of a run to help sling shot them some initial momentum as most tow straps are made out of polypropylene and impart way too much shock load if used to jerk a stuck vehicle into motion but are totally fine to use if going more from almost a dead pull with the tow vehicle and they are a lot less expensive to replace if damaged. That and some soft shackles to hook onto closed loop tow hooks on the truck your pulling as well as you having the proper shackle insert in your truck so there are no bad accidents with metal clevises joining things together or chain on the end of a tow rope or tow balls being hooked onto etc flying and causing damage or worse if it lets go. Its always a challenge pulling people because some are clueless and will over run the tow rope or strap and drive over it or that risk of ramming into the back of the tow vehicle so usually a few instructions are needed to clue in the driver of the stuck truck. Yeah ... have fun out there 😉
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • KARNUT
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By KARNUT · Posted

      First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Z45
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Z45 · Posted

      Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...