Jump to content

Loosing Coolant

fireaxxe

By fireaxxe
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

LaserBlueZ71 Enthusiast

LaserBlueZ71

Posted
Posted

When will this insanity stop?????? For the next one....Tundra here I come!!!

I just started having the interior water leak issue. I swear if I end up having all the problems others are having with these trucks, it will be a Tundra for me too.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Victory14red
Victory14red

Not that it seems like this is a real,hot topic right now but I just got my truck back. They found the leak and replaced the radiator. The bulletin is PI1513 and for the non max tow 5.3 the updated pa

fireaxxe
fireaxxe

Here is a link to a possible wide spread issue.   http://oemdtc.com/25613/coolant-smell-andor-slight-leak-at-radiator-2014-2015-cadillac-chevrolet-gmc-vehicles     Also I checked the part numbers

Victory14red
Victory14red

Hi there, first time post here. I just picked up my 14 in 12/17 and have noticed since I got it the coolant is down about an inch in the resovoir and my driver side is cracked. Just dropped it off at

Posted Images

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted (edited)

Mine is cracked on both sides. The driver side both tabs are cracked. One tab on pax side.

 

IMG_20151231_152941_zpsmleacpqc.jpg

Edited by spurshot
fireaxxe Enthusiast

fireaxxe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There is something going on here. I took my truck in got the ole' "Could not find symptom" "Could not duplicate" and got a chance to talk to the technician. Its funny it seems like the service writers and managers ALWAYS try to run interference or try to keep you away from the tech altogether. The tech told me that he pressure tested the system while hot and it held pressure. He also said that he had not seen any radiators that were cracked like that. So this for now will be an ongoing issue for me.

fireaxxe Enthusiast

fireaxxe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just checked my DC 5.3L with ~13,000 miles and no cracks. Hmmm...

Do you have the max trailering package?

Victory14red Enthusiast

Victory14red

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi there, first time post here. I just picked up my 14 in 12/17 and have noticed since I got it the coolant is down about an inch in the resovoir and my driver side is cracked. Just dropped it off at the dealer this morning and was immediately told there is no tsb and they've never had to replace a radiator in one of these yet. I showed the service advisor the,crack and he said that it's just a mounting tab and that it has nothing to do with coolant loss but they would check into it. I told him that the coolant must be going somewhere.

 

Now, I am a professional mechanic,by trade (heavy equipment/ buses) so I'm not going to let them pull anything over on me.

 

Btw, 25k on the truck.

Edited by Victory14red
  • Like 1
Victory14red Enthusiast

Victory14red

Posted
Posted

Not that it seems like this is a real,hot topic right now but I just got my truck back. They found the leak and replaced the radiator. The bulletin is PI1513 and for the non max tow 5.3 the updated parts are 23378655 radiator

12671393 outlet with thermostat

  • Like 3
ladderman Enthusiast

ladderman

Posted
Posted

My rad and thermostat are getting replaced tomorrow. Just under the gun, 60, 000 km warranty, and truck is at 58, 200.

abager2 Enthusiast

abager2

Posted
Posted

antifreeze smell in cab...2014 silverado z71 4wd reg cab std bed...in shop today getting leaking heater core fixed..complete dash is out of truck..intake is off...quite a job...evidently been a problem for many...just hope it all goes back together without squeaking and rattling...im gonna have them check this radiator issue as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 497 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • whenindoubtuseahammer
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By whenindoubtuseahammer · Posted

      Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...