Jump to content

Push-to-start & keyless entry: Has anyone added these features?

BlackOps

By BlackOps
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

BlackOps Enthusiast

BlackOps

Posted
Posted (edited)

These 2 items are one of the biggest complaints I have purchasing my first Denali. Old technology and yet is still hasn't been incorporated into the trucks. I'm not fond of using a key fob to unlock and lock my vehicle and using a key to start it. I have a 2011 vehicle (car) that all I have to do is have the fob close by (in my pocket) and I can push the button on the door handle to lock/unlock the vehicle and push the button on the dash to start/stop the engine.

 

So...I was wondering if anyone has added these features to their 2014+ GM truck? Parts? Purchased from? What's involved? Pics?

Edited by BlackOps
PinballWzrd Enthusiast

PinballWzrd

Posted
Posted

I love that feature. I had it in my previous car and it is the only thing I miss. I keep getting in the truck then having to fight to dig the keys out of my pocket. Just getting in and pushing the button is so much better. Same with the door locks!

 

  • Like 1
Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted (edited)

I think it will eventually become a part of a trim pkg. Maybe next year.

 

I believe it would be expensive for the components and maybe impossible for a GM OEM type installation due to the BCM interfaces. Maybe aftermarket kits are available?

 

Found this.

http://www.innovativeignitionsystems.com/#!pke-100-cb/c24l3

 

It'll be interesting to see how much cost and effort some are willing to go through to save a little effort.

 

I'm not a fan of this feature. I'm happy my truck and Camaro don't have it. My wife's car has it. I would be happy to never own a car/truck with it.

Edited by spurshot
  • Like 1
moosehead1 Enthusiast

moosehead1

Posted
Posted

Subscribed. Once you have a vehicle with keyless entry/ignition, it's hard to go back. Horse and carriage stuff.

 

+2, hard to believe GM keeps holding back on these already available features in the truck lineup. Hopefully a retrofit becomes feasible, heck with remote start and a keyfob it's gotta be close.

6D9 Matt Enthusiast

6D9 Matt

Posted
Posted

I did love having only the key fob on my last car, never having to dig for my keys, etc.

 

I guess if I had to choose one or the other, I would get the fob. But having a regular key isnt the end of the world.

Aubie_01 Enthusiast

Aubie_01

Posted
Posted

I suspect that GM's market research indicates the majority of its truck buyers prefer using a key. Remember, GM trucks are the most 'traditional' of the Big 3 brands.

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

I had driven with my wife somewhere, dropped her off, then drove to another place. I was about to shut off the car, when I realized I didn't have the key. She had it in her purse. Sure a light on the dash came on as she left the car, right in the same place the seatbelt light comes on. There are enough lights and chimes in a car in almost each use that I'm numb to them. There are many scenarios that can separate the keyless key from the vehicle and allow it to drive away.

 

Many members whine about the cost of these trucks, yet want all these kinds of features. This feature likely adds hundreds to the retail bottom line.

  • Like 3
moosehead1 Enthusiast

moosehead1

Posted
Posted

Keys and shifters will all but be gone in vehicles - soon. IIRC, Edmunds reported something along the line of 70% of current vehicles offer keyless ignition/entry as either a standard or option.

 

I get the push back on the needless arms race of vehicle upgrades, but certain improvements are dramatic and perhaps simple. For example, anti swamp-ass seats.

 

Now when cars reportedly drive themselves, I'll start pushing back.

  • Like 1
Chainesaw Enthusiast

Chainesaw

Posted
Posted (edited)

I thought it was coming on the 16's (?) I know they already have it in the SUV's (Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade) so.. it's not a technology problem ..


Also -

 

 

 

Many members whine about the cost of these trucks, yet want all these kinds of features. This feature likely adds hundreds to the retail bottom line.


We ARE talking about trucks that are mostly north of $50k... When (any) manufacturer can add this into basically any car at HALF the MSRP, your argument doesn't hold much water IMO - I am of the opinion that my $55k truck most definitely SHOULD have come with it.. Hyundai can manage to include it on a $17k Elantra, and I'm supposed to believe GMC can't add it to vehicle with almost a QUADRUPLE MSRP? I don't buy that.


mm_gal_item_c2_8.img_resize.img_stage._3

Edited by Chainesaw
Selser420 Enthusiast

Selser420

Posted
Posted

I wish my 16 had it. After spending a week driving a 15 Escalade and another week in an ATS, I became really fond of it.

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

The market data will push GM to make their decision. But ultimately, it boils down to a person or persons to make the decision. According to a law firm representing plaintiffs related to push-button ignition/passive entry, there are two federal regulations that are not being met by the design.

 

Fwiw, the average price of all GM fullsize truck sales is $35k.

Willshire Enthusiast

Willshire

Posted
Posted

Having a key doesn't bother me. But then, i'm old school. my other car has 4 wires going into the engine bay to make it run, steering wheel doesn't lock, and it has power steering so sensitive you can drive it with your pinky finger. Oh, and drum breaks all the way around! Ahhh simpler times.

  • Like 1
Jernik Enthusiast

Jernik

Posted
Posted

Keys and shifters will all but be gone in vehicles - soon. IIRC, Edmunds reported something along the line of 70% of current vehicles offer keyless ignition/entry as either a standard or option.

 

I get the push back on the needless arms race of vehicle upgrades, but certain improvements are dramatic and perhaps simple. For example, anti swamp-ass seats.

 

Now when cars reportedly drive themselves, I'll start pushing back.

 

Yeah, I don't get the hate for Ram's dial shifter. Most things in vehicles are electronically controlled these days, so the "gear shifter" really isn't necessary and just takes up room. Without keys, GM wouldn't have had the ignition issue that cost people their lives.

 

Now, as for the self driving vehicles, I'm all for it! But these vehicles will need a total redesign to fit a recliner, Big Screen TV w/surround sound, kitchen, and bathroom. I'd take more long roadtrips if I had a self driving vehicle like that!! :thumbs:

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...