Stereo sound deterioration after 10+ mins high volume

[91e30181]

Just picked up a new 15 Sierra Carbon Edition. What I've been noticing in the past few days is that the stereo sound just falls apart as if the amp is ready to give out after only ten or so minutes at high volume. Even at full blast, my non-bose stereo isn't impressively loud, so I usually have it full blast. I'm guessing I will have to either bring it back to the dealer to have my week old truck "diagnosed" (where some kid will probably drive it around for a half hour, hear the problem, but I will still be told they couldn't replicate the issue) or just deal with it. Any suggestions??? Thanks!

[Kyle Soldani]

I've noticed the same in mine. The bottom end really falls apart (not that I expected anything decent) and becomes muddy. I suppose it's what we get for not bumping up to BOSE, I'll design my own system probably.

 

Will be following along...

Edited January 6, 2016 by K-Slo

[91e30181]

Its not just the bottom end on mine, its mostly cracking highs. You can tell the amp must be on the verge of catching fire

[Willshire]

At full blast you will end up blowing the speakers out anyways because distortion after 90% volume is not good for the system. Try setting your bass, mid and treble below the half way mark. We used to see customers come in and the bass and treble would be cranked right up, speakers would be blown out. all the bass and treble do is raise the volume in those frequencies. No stereo is designed to run full blast on a system that is not externally amplified. the built in amp probably has built in overheat protection and lowers the output to prevent from crapping out. Distortion is created through the volume of any stereo. As the volume knob is turned louder, it induces distortion. If the system is externally amplified, the amp has circuitry in it to reduce distortion. And you won't have the volume knob turned as far for the same output which also reduces distortion. Look at the size of the amp in a aftermarket cd player that is rated at 50W per channel. Then compare it to the size of a 200W 4 - channel amp. The amp is enormous compared to the deck's amp. You will never get great sound from an internally amplified system. There just isn't enough space in the head unit for a quality amp. just because the volume goes to 11 doesn't mean it should. Non Bose definitely not

Edited January 6, 2016 by Willshire

[91e30181]

I'm extremely familiar with car audio, the settings are to where there is zero distortion at full volume. Its not loud enough where full volume is even enough with this stereo. My wife's jeep goes way louder without issue. Its just a quality issue.

[diyer2]

So you know the problem, quality issue. Turn it down or go after market upgrade.

[George C]

Paper speakers, low power and high distortion.

[91e30181]

Yes, I know the problem. What Ive come here for is possible solutions, recommendations and to see if people have had similar issues and if it was fixed or improved. Im not looking for smart ass comments recommending I "turn it down". And if I go aftermarket, what should I expect? Will just speakers solve it? Just an amp? Both? And how does that work exactly with the factory nav and OnStar? Thank you to those who are actually attempting to help me with this.

[BigBadSierra]

I would Just replace all of the speakers with better ones at first.

 

My truck has the Bose so I have no issues it but I upgraded all of the speakers in both of my Traverse's a 2010 and a 2013 non-Bose the 2010 needed an AMP too.

 

The Traverse's in 2010 had real weak radio's so I added an AMP to that one but did it after the speaker upgrade.

 

The 2013 Stereo's had a higher output so just a speaker upgrade did the trick.

[diyer2]

Wasn't a smart ass comment, I gave you a solution and a recommendation, sorry you took it that way.

FYI

I'm an audiophile junkie, have built 6 home surround sound systems, and many vehicle upgrades. If you want it loud and clear upgrade everything and go amplifiers for speakers and sub-woofer.

 

Edited January 7, 2016 by diyer2

[91e30181]

Wasn't a smart ass comment, I gave you a solution and a recommendation, sorry you took it that way.

FYI

I'm an audiophile junkie, have built 6 home surround sound systems, and many vehicle upgrades. If you want it loud and clear upgrade everything and go amplifiers for speakers and sub-woofer.

 

 

Again, youve chimed in with your opinion, but no real help or advice. I dont care if youve built 65 home theater systems, I dont live in my truck. I was more interested in hearing if anyone else has had this issue and if it was actually resolved under warranty or any other routes and how. The issue appears to stem from stock amp quality/power. And Im not saying I want it loud & clear, I want the amp to not have an issue with the volume being high for a period as long as my work commute. So if I were to HAVE to go aftermarket, how would I go about pulling apart the factory nav/head unit/OnStar to power a 4 channel amp? Do you have any experience with that?

[Willshire]

In most cases, been a while since i did it, you should use a signal processor, (kicker zxsum8 comes to mind) which basically takes the output from each speaker wire and converts it to an rca type output to run to your amplifier. It is like a hi low level converter but provides quality sound output for the speaker system. The voice coil in the speaker and ability of the speaker surround to keep it square in the voice coil is an important part of the speaker. Just changing the speakers will not solve your problem as the more sound output from the speaker the more wattage required from the amp and sounds like it is being driven into thermal protection mode. In my experience, good quality signal from a quality 4 channel amp will drive the factory speakers just fine. I think you are on the right track with going with the amp first. 10 quality watts will beat 50 shitty watts every day of the week. OP, this explanation is for the general public that are interested in the same thing as you but don't have the experience with car audio i mean no disrespect if you have knowledge of this.

 

To your question regarding experience with this, i do not think this is a gm malfunction issue but rather a "our amp in our non bose system is flat out a POS" issue. i suspect their answer would be "if you wanted to crank the tunes, we offer a bose system you should have considered" lol. The non bose is for listening to the news hahaha

Edited January 7, 2016 by Willshire

[91e30181]

In most cases, been a while since i did it, you should use a signal processor, (kicker zxsum8 comes to mind) which basically takes the output from each speaker wire and converts it to an rca type output to run to your amplifier. It is like a hi low level converter but provides quality sound output for the speaker system. The voice coil in the speaker and ability of the speaker surround to keep it square in the voice coil is an important part of the speaker. Just changing the speakers will not solve your problem as the more sound output from the speaker the more wattage required from the amp and sounds like it is being driven into thermal protection mode. In my experience, good quality signal from a quality 4 channel amp will drive the factory speakers just fine. I think you are on the right track with going with the amp first. 10 quality watts will beat 50 shitty watts every day of the week. OP, this explanation is for the general public that are interested in the same thing as you but don't have the experience with car audio i mean no disrespect if you have knowledge of this.

 

To your question regarding experience with this, i do not think this is a gm malfunction issue but rather a "our amp in our non bose system is flat out a POS" issue. i suspect their answer would be "if you wanted to crank the tunes, we offer a bose system you should have considered" lol. The non bose is for listening to the news hahaha

 

 

Well thank you for the useful response. Ive seen the signal processors (or whatever they are called) used for subs, but have never considered it to power an amp for the sound speaker....I guess it could work. I do have experience with stereo installs, just not on my own brand new vehicle with nav and onstar. You are probably spot on with the response I would get from GM....lol. Thanks again for the advice!

[George C]

If you install a signal processor, you will have a slightly better signal to run through your junk paper speakers, making the flaws even more noticeable. I found that you will be even more critical of the stock pieces if you don't just wipe the slate clean and start over with quality components.

 

I scrapped the speakers, added 6 Memphis Sound M Class 6X9 speakers powered by a Memphis 300w amp, and a set of 10" subs powered by a 200W mini. I also added a Memphis sound line out converter with remote control over the subs. I kept the stock 8" display head because I wanted the interior to look stock.

About $2,500 installed.

You can imaging how well it sounds.

The base is so clean and crisp that my back feels the thump through the seat like a hammer.

[91e30181]

If you install a signal processor, you will have a slightly better signal to run through your junk paper speakers, making the flaws even more noticeable. I found that you will be even more critical of the stock pieces if you don't just wipe the slate clean and start over with quality components.

 

I scrapped the speakers, added 6 Memphis Sound M Class 6X9 speakers powered by a Memphis 300w amp, and a set of 10" subs powered by a 200W mini. I also added a Memphis sound line out converter with remote control over the subs. I kept the stock 8" display head because I wanted the interior to look stock.

About $2,500 installed.

You can imaging how well it sounds.

The base is so clean and crisp that my back feels the thump through the seat like a hammer.

 

Nice! Sounds like quite a stereo