Jump to content

Loss of power?

rwilson3944

By rwilson3944
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

rwilson3944 Enthusiast

rwilson3944

Posted
Posted

I have had my 2015 5.3 Sierra for roughly 4 months and other than the horrible shift pattern I love it. But yesterday I almost got t boned turning left across traffic. I pressed the throttle and the truck started to accelerate and then just lost all power for a second or so and then begin to accelerate again and then lost power again. Three times this occurred before normal power and acceleration returned. It's hard to describe almost like the engine is not sending power to the transmission, it didn't matter how much throttle I gave it because by the third time I probably had it depressed more than 3/4 full throttle to get the hell out of the intersection. This has me very concerned because I never know when this will occur again. Any ideas what this may be?

post-152183-0-75052000-1454864786_thumb.jpg

post-152183-0-75052000-1454864786_thumb.jpg

post-152183-0-75052000-1454864786_thumb.jpg

post-152183-0-75052000-1454864786_thumb.jpg

ic3man5 Enthusiast

ic3man5

Posted
Posted

Sounds like traction control kicking in, did you have a yellow light flash at you in the bottom of the speedometer? I've had the same thing happen and it seems a little too aggressive for dry pavement. Putting it in auto if you have 4x4 will give you the best turning acceleration.

rwilson3944 Enthusiast

rwilson3944

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the reply but it's only 2 wheel drive and the conditions on the road were dry so traction control shouldn't even come in to play. The more I think about it, it seems to be the engine not the transmission I don't recall the engine rpm going up when I was applying the accelerator. Hopefully the ECM recorded something so when I go to the dealer I don't get the "we can't replicate the problem".

BigBadSierra Senior Enthusiast

BigBadSierra

Posted
Posted

I have had my 2015 5.3 Sierra for roughly 4 months and other than the horrible shift pattern I love it. But yesterday I almost got t boned turning left across traffic. I pressed the throttle and the truck started to accelerate and then just lost all power for a second or so and then begin to accelerate again and then lost power again. Three times this occurred before normal power and acceleration returned. It's hard to describe almost like the engine is not sending power to the transmission, it didn't matter how much throttle I gave it because by the third time I probably had it depressed more than 3/4 full throttle to get the hell out of the intersection. This has me very concerned because I never know when this will occur again. Any ideas what this may be?

 

Mine did this especially If I was on the power off the power then put the peddle all the way down and it just waited to go.

 

Same thing as you once I was turning left out of a side road onto a busy highway and the idiot come from the other way rolled the stop sign as in never even really stopped. I had to check up and let him go through the intersection and then I need to go as cars were now coming. Hit the gas and nothing. I turned into the turning lanes to avoid being hit and then of course my truck took off again.

 

I put the Airaid intake on and my truck has never ever done this not even once with this intake.

 

If I put the factory air box on to take it in for service it has issues from time to time again.

 

The one thing I noticed every time the truck would do this I could hear it sucking air. I don't think it was from a lack of air I think it was caused from to much disruption of air and it causes the engine to basically stumble.

 

 

 

So people who defend the factory airbox go right ahead but I will not run it on my truck.

Txjose Senior Enthusiast

Txjose

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the reply but it's only 2 wheel drive and the conditions on the road were dry so traction control shouldn't even come in to play. The more I think about it, it seems to be the engine not the transmission I don't recall the engine rpm going up when I was applying the accelerator. Hopefully the ECM recorded something so when I go to the dealer I don't get the "we can't replicate the problem".

Its a 355hp V8.... You will have traction issued if you mash it off the line.

 

It sounds to me like traction control kicked in. What TC will do is kind of cut the power going to the wheels until they stop spinning out of sync and then return the power once everything is back in order... All if this in amatyer of a second or 2.

 

Sent from my Note 4 on Tapashit

ic3man5 Enthusiast

ic3man5

Posted
Posted

ECU wouldn't have recorded anything, they are still pretty stupid at logging data. 2wd on dry pavement flooring it while turning will 100% have traction control kick on.

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

 

Mine did this especially If I was on the power off the power then put the peddle all the way down and it just waited to go.

 

Same thing as you once I was turning left out of a side road onto a busy highway and the idiot come from the other way rolled the stop sign as in never even really stopped. I had to check up and let him go through the intersection and then I need to go as cars were now coming. Hit the gas and nothing. I turned into the turning lanes to avoid being hit and then of course my truck took off again.

 

I put the Airaid intake on and my truck has never ever done this not even once with this intake.

 

If I put the factory air box on to take it in for service it has issues from time to time again.

 

The one thing I noticed every time the truck would do this I could hear it sucking air. I don't think it was from a lack of air I think it was caused from to much disruption of air and it causes the engine to basically stumble.

 

 

 

So people who defend the factory airbox go right ahead but I will not run it on my truck.

 

You have AirRaid MIT or full tube and box/filter?

rwilson3944 Enthusiast

rwilson3944

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I do have a K&N CAI on the intake. I really didn't mash the throttle until the third try and only to get out of the intersection. It was a normal turn across traffic it was from a dead stop waiting at a light.I then lightly pressed the gas to start the turn and it moved forward like normal and then lost all power. I also have a GM borla exhaust that's it for mods that may affect the drivability of the truck.

GMC207 Enthusiast

GMC207

Posted
Posted

I've got the same issue. I read on another post it possibly could be the torque converter. Haven't had time to go deal with the service dept yet.

  • 4 weeks later...
Bwoodkid Enthusiast

Bwoodkid

Posted
Posted

This happend to me also, I was being abusive. TC off tow haul mode doing a power break and when I let off the break the wheels only spun for a couple second then lost all power. WTF I thought. I just read about Torque Management. Look it up. This will kill injectors when the torque converter senses abuse. It's also the reason for the bogged down feeling when you punch it to pass or something.

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

Mine would do this on occasion. GM's fuel economy-centric tuning creates a lot of lag when you make sudden throttle position changes. It's almost like the ECU/TCM gets confused on the best course of action when you hit the go pedal.

 

I got a custom tune. Hasn't happened ever since.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...