Jump to content

Delete Delete! Amber Headlight reflectors and pillars


Recommended Posts

Posted

So I decided to mess around a bit in the last few days. I did the Amber reflector delete. This was a pita! Removed housings from truck, removed chrome trim piece from the front, baked them for about 12-14 mins @ 200° and pulled them apart and then still had to seperate the black interior portion from the clear just to access the reflectors for removal. Not as scary as i thought as there really was no danger of melting as i was able to handle them right out of the oven. The worst part was the oem sealant is a bi+ch to work with. Resealled using lexell.

Also i did the pillar delete. I masked it off and plastipped it to see if i liked ut before i have them vinyl wrapped. Check out the pics and lemme know what u think!

20160415_214744.jpg

20160416_152714.jpg

20160416_145442.jpg

20160415_183248.jpg

20160415_184915.jpg

20160415_190835.jpg

20160414_121739.jpg

20160407_123942.jpg

Posted

Im going to run amber LEDs. Some states do require an orange reflector but im good here, and even the states that do require it, most dont pull people over for it

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I have been looking to do the pillar deletes in vinyl myself and plasti dip for the test run is a great idea, at an even better cost. Truck looks great!

Posted

Im going to run amber LEDs. Some states do require an orange reflector but im good here, and even the states that do require it, most dont pull people over for it

 

Pretty sure all guidelines for exterior lighting are federal I would think it would be chaos if done state by state as even the feds are hilariously out of date and far behind Europe standards. You can check DOT FMVSS article 108. Unless you know something I do not. Amber marking lamps on 4 corners are required so should be ok there I use an amber light and clear reflector. Pretty sure reflectors are required too but they do not have to be large, mine are a lot smaller than OEM.

 

I am looking at swapping my amber lamp to LED too using http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/led-bulbs/listed-by-size/3156/3157-11w-hi-power-ledswhich are you trying?

Posted

dbcooper - the amber delete looks AWESOME!!! that's on my to do list once i have some spare time (with a 1 year old and a 3 year old it might be a bit! ha! ha)

 

did you put any other lens in or just remove the amber lens? i've been thinking of these: http://klearz.com/products/chevrolet/14-15_silverado_headlight_markers_ltz

 

 

also - i figure if i'm going to go to all the work of getting the lights apart then i'm also going to add halos while i'm at it

Posted

 

Pretty sure all guidelines for exterior lighting are federal I would think it would be chaos if done state by state as even the feds are hilariously out of date and far behind Europe standards. You can check DOT FMVSS article 108. Unless you know something I do not. Amber marking lamps on 4 corners are required so should be ok there I use an amber light and clear reflector. Pretty sure reflectors are required too but they do not have to be large, mine are a lot smaller than OEM.

 

I am looking at swapping my amber lamp to LED too using http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/led-bulbs/listed-by-size/3156/3157-11w-hi-power-ledswhich are you trying?

 

 

i swapped out my amber front corners for clears a number of years ago in my other truck and i've never had any issue with the police (i did install amber lights when i did the swap). i can see the police not being too impressed if i changed the colour to something else, but the fact that they are orange lights seems to keep the police happy

 

IMG_5435_zps47b834db.jpg

Posted

reflective tape would look cheezy might as well keep amber reflector in the light

But the tape lets you select the location. Does not even have to be on corner of cleared light. Could but just after it or below or on bumper top maybe anywhere in that general area. Plus its 50c and looks better than a ticket. As people say chances are low probs but still there and if the cop really does not like you something he can tack on top of something else ie. speeding etc.

 

Or just use it to pass an inspection and go on your merry way without it.

Posted

I was thinking about blacking out my pillars as well. I was afraid that because I have the crew the Windows would look huge as the rear window is already pretty big.

Posted

look how good dbcooper truck looks, where would you put an amber reflector on the front of his truck that wouldnt look bad

 

Pretty sure the people who write and enforce the road safety measure do not care about looks which is why every car has em. The reflectors are for pedestrians and when your car is parked. Pretty sure that person trying to cross the street or the bozo who side swipes you in a hit and run do not care either.

 

I would go top side of bumper myself. But other can do as they please, they just sound like this guy to me:

 

 

Posted

Ha.. i did the same thing except i put in clear reflectors from klearz. I also did the vinyl on the pillars, gives the truck a different look. I use switchbacks for my turn signals/park lights, and yes permaseal is a PITA to work with!!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 417 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...