Jump to content

2016 GMC vs Chevrolet

Jus Cruisin

Recommended Posts

tallspawn Enthusiast

tallspawn

Posted
Posted

Yeah thats real nice. The LTs and over get the enhanced DIC. Since I have an LS I have to make do with a little DIC.

Suffering from cluster envy now.

Cluster made a big difference to me, love this thing!!

 

8e0db5625ad60db95b4d2bc479120eca.jpg

 

Sent From My Galaxy S6 Edge+

gr8almty1 Enthusiast

gr8almty1

Posted
Posted

My salesmen told me the difference between a GMC and Chevy other then the obvious is that to build a GMC you must have 5 years experience building Chevy's first. It is where the "Professional Grade" comes from. But could be him blowing smoke up my ass.

It's built on the same assembly line by the same potheads
The Mad Veteran Enthusiast

The Mad Veteran

Posted
Posted

Cluster made a big difference to me, love this thing!!

 

8e0db5625ad60db95b4d2bc479120eca.jpg

 

Sent From My Galaxy S6 Edge+

 

I would love the have that DIS! But I couldn't justify spending the cash on a Denali.

tallspawn Enthusiast

tallspawn

Posted
Posted

Is that a 15 or 16? Looks sick...

Sorry for the delay, they are correct it's a 16 Denali but available since 14...

 

 

 

 

Sent From My Galaxy S6 Edge+

Tek74 Enthusiast

Tek74

Posted
Posted

To me, all the little nick-nack differences between Chevy and GMC are negligible, especially when Chevy offers the LTZ and High Country models. They are both made by GM and therefore the same quality. Professional Grade does not equate to problem free longevity. I would buy which ever one had the cosmetic looks that I liked and the best price.

 

When I first saw my 2015 Silverado LT Z71 Double Cab in silver, I was instantly liked the look. The dealer was offering $8k in incentives that weekend, so I bought it. When I'm ready for another truck in 10-12 years, I will not hesitate to buy a Sierra.

Jus Cruisin Enthusiast

Jus Cruisin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Looks like it will be which look I like the best. I'm not into the murdered look, I'll be ordering black, so I'm thinking the additional bright work on the GMC will suit me better. And, I want black interior so the High Country is out. The LTZ has a good look but all that black paint will get a sandblasted look pretty quick. I'll be making a decision on my next truck within a month or two. It'll be a 2017.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • carkhz316
      2006 Silverado HVAC sensor location in dashboard

      By carkhz316 · Posted

      Oh yes, someone is going to be certainly hitting up GM service/ support for a 20 year old truck.
    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...