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Posted

I am trying to tap into some electrical power at the driver's side fuse box. I have no problem finding power, but it seems like all of the fuses stay powered even when the vehicle is off.

 

I need a hard-wired power source that turns off when the vehicle turns off (or stays powered during the 10 minute RAP period). Any help?

 

Thanks, John

Posted

I am trying to tap into some electrical power at the driver's side fuse box. I have no problem finding power, but it seems like all of the fuses stay powered even when the vehicle is off.

 

I need a hard-wired power source that turns off when the vehicle turns off (or stays powered during the 10 minute RAP period). Any help?

 

Thanks, John

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/155775-2014-rap-retained-accessory-power/ Thanks to MotoMedic!

Posted

On my 2014 Silverado there is a 1/4 inch blade tap in the driver side fuse panel. Just need a 1/4 inch female spade connector and will have RAP power. That's where I've tapped for my amp and radar detector. Both turn on/off with key.

210a0274ddb53d542b55de6e3f84d0e6.jpg


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Posted

OB19, works perfect! Found the blade. Easy hook up. On and off with the key switch.

 

Thanks for the tip!

 

Glad to hear! What was your project if you don't mind me asking?

Posted

Hard-wired a radar detector, um, I mean a perfectly legal radio that just happens to receive very specific frequencies and plays beeps instead of music.

Posted

Are Radar detectors illegal where you live?

 

 

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  • 10 months later...
Posted

OB19, works perfect! Found the blade. Easy hook up. On and off with the key switch.

 

Thanks for the tip!

I just found out that if you pull that "50" fuse and re-insert it so that it engages the exposed blade on top - leaving a blade exposed below - that the dash power sources will become RAP instead of battery-direct.

 

Which begs the question: might there be a technical issue around directly-connecting to that blade because the connected device is not fused?

 

If so, maybe there is a wire downstream that can be tapped once the fuse has been moved ?

Posted

I just found out that if you pull that "50" fuse and re-insert it so that it engages the exposed blade on top - leaving a blade exposed below - that the dash power sources will become RAP instead of battery-direct.

 

Which begs the question: might there be a technical issue around directly-connecting to that blade because the connected device is not fused?

 

If so, maybe there is a wire downstream that can be tapped once the fuse has been moved ?

Excellent point, I'd put an in line fuse into any tap just to be safe

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