Jump to content

Front Axle Weight Rating - 2500 HD

Skeld

Recommended Posts

Skeld Enthusiast

Skeld

Posted
Posted

Just picked up a 2016 Silverado 2500 HD Crew Cab (Standard Box and 6.0L gas) with the plow package. It's not clear to me what the front axle gross weight rating is? Does the plow package increase it over the standard 4,800 pounds? Just trying to figure out what I can carry for a plow.

Nathan79 Enthusiast

Nathan79

Posted
Posted

Open your driver's side door. You will have a few stickers on the body or the side of the door jam. One will have tire load, and both front and rear axle ratings as well as total GVWR. Another sticker will also have the payload of the truck as it leaves the factory.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

plow package generally is 6,000 lbs HD springs

 

Only on the diesel engine is it 6,000lbs. Gas with plow prep are 5,200-5,600lbs depending on cab.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

Just picked up a 2016 Silverado 2500 HD Crew Cab (Standard Box and 6.0L gas) with the plow package. It's not clear to me what the front axle gross weight rating is? Does the plow package increase it over the standard 4,800 pounds? Just trying to figure out what I can carry for a plow.

 

GM does that for you. http://www.gmfleetorderguide.com/NASApp/domestic/printbook?pdftype=option&lang=1&vehicle=18909&rpoid=27701

 

Crew cab gas standard box is 5200lbs FAWR with plow prep. GM allows for 100lbs permanent plow hardware and 725lbs of plow for your truck. GM gets those numbers using the following below:

 

Maximum plow weights based on a vehicle with average manufacturer option content and 150lbs each for

driver and one additional front seat occupant. Additional equipment and occupants can reduce maximum

plow weight.

 

From what it seems like, those numbers are without ballast as well. If you ballast (200-500lbs depending on the plow you pick) you would be able to run something on the bigger side.

Skeld Enthusiast

Skeld

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Open your driver's side door. You will have a few stickers on the body or the side of the door jam. One will have tire load, and both front and rear axle ratings as well as total GVWR. Another sticker will also have the payload of the truck as it leaves the factory.

 

I'll have to look again, and I apologize for wasting time if it is there. Looked at in the dark last night and couldn't see the axle ratings on there but I may have missed it.

 

Edit: Ok, I found it. Rather than around the edge it's down on the rocker panel. Oops. 5,200# front axle. Should work ok for a 9'6" Xtreme V.

  • 8 months later...
Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted

Hadn't taken the time to really look at the stickers on mine. I have a 2015 2500 with the snow plow prep. One thing that confuses me.... it says that the GVWR is 9500, but the front axle rating is 5200 lb and the rear axle is 6200 lb. Now I realize that it has been a considerable time since I last took a college math class, but that adds up to 11,400 lb. Anyone got any idea on why this discrepancy?

HeliMark Enthusiast

HeliMark

Posted
Posted

Hadn't taken the time to really look at the stickers on mine. I have a 2015 2500 with the snow plow prep. One thing that confuses me.... it says that the GVWR is 9500, but the front axle rating is 5200 lb and the rear axle is 6200 lb. Now I realize that it has been a considerable time since I last took a college math class, but that adds up to 11,400 lb. Anyone got any idea on why this discrepancy?

 

They sticker it below 10K pounds due to in some states, the taxes skyrocket above that. Also DOT regs kick in at 10K for commercial ops. Which means if you use your truck for your business, and stickered below 10K, no DOT stuff. Above that with just the truck or the truck and trailer combined above 10K, DOT numbers required.

 

All a shell game to sell more trucks.

 

Mark

Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted

That would depend on state by state DOT as for if numbers required. No requirement for in state for Iowa, probably due to the state being primarily an agriculture related state. Interstate, you would be probably right. Federal DOT numbers only apply if vehicle is used commercially across state lines. The only thing that really applies in my state is that any vehicle, except recreational, is required to cross state weigh scales if vehicle or combination is over 10K. Commercial or private use has nothing to do with it. And Iowa troopers take that seriously. They frequently will stop pickups with equipment, dump, or livestock trailers and checking for axle limits and other details. I have a Class A CDL with all endorsements so that part is not an issue.

 

You are probably dead on regarding it being a shell game and a money grab issue. One thing for certain... as long as I don't go over the GVWR, there is about a snowball's chance in hell of ever going over GAWR.

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

I doubt that GM worries about the registration thing or the emissions thing.

 

At 11,400# you'd be into 3500-series territory with a 2500, so it's probably a sales thing....

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Nathan79 Enthusiast

Nathan79

Posted
Posted

For all 1/2 ton and the HD trucks the GVWR is never the sum of the individual axle weight ratings. Why, not sure. But I think it is true for all brands.

Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted

Yeah, probably right. It could be to something altogether different as well, like overall vehicle build and how weight affects all aspects of the vehicle safety.

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Just picked up a 2016 Silverado 2500 HD Crew Cab (Standard Box and 6.0L gas) with the plow package. It's not clear to me what the front axle gross weight rating is? Does the plow package increase it over the standard 4,800 pounds? Just trying to figure out what I can carry for a plow.

Upfitter guide shows 2017 CC std box 2500 L96 with snowplow will have 5200#

(cowpies 15 and the guide 17 are same rating - seems like the 16 would be also the same)

 

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/773/2017_LD_Snow_Plow_11_18_2016.pdf

Skeld Enthusiast

Skeld

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's 5,200. I started this one back in May. Haven't had a chance to weigh the truck with the plow on. 9'6" Xtreme V (about 1,000 pound plow)...with the rake on the truck being about 3", even though the plow doesn't squat the truck much, it ends up looking rather ridiculous. Might level it some over the summer to help with the plow.

  • 2 years later...
codeman1377 Enthusiast

codeman1377

Posted
Posted

just bought a used 2018 gmc 2500hd crew cab with duramax. I assumed that all the duramax trucks had the heavier duty front end rating. This truck only has 5200 on the sticker. Is there a way to increase this to 6000. So I can put my plow on it.

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...