2016 SLT lights in 14/15 SLT/All Terrain almost done

[Tim Rasmussen]

Didn't realize it till now but this is where I ordered my lights through last Thursday. Supposed to come in today IIRC.

 

I ask some questions before ordering and found it funny they didn't know where their inventory came from. Said they were not a wrecking yard so I assumed maybe they bought new trucks and dismantled to used the drivetrain in something like Zamboni's. But they didn't know.

$750 each side?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TXTruk15]

I bought those, they came in damaged from shipping and the seller accepted a return. One headlight was almost perfect and the other I assumed was damaged during shipping, had a crack on the side of the lense and the tab sticking off the bottom was broken off. They may pop back up on there.

 

So now I'm on the hunt for another set. If I were to go the dealer route gmpartsdirect.com has them around 850/each(794 + 50 core).

Hey drummerdawg,

 

are these the ones you were talking about and just got relisted?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sierra-2016-Headlamps-Pair-OEM-/272319936477?vxp=mtr

[drummerdawg]

Hey drummerdawg,

 

are these the ones you were talking about and just got relisted?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sierra-2016-Headlamps-Pair-OEM-/272319936477?vxp=mtr

Same seller, potentially same pictures from the add I bought them from.

[drummerdawg]

Hey drummerdawg,

 

are these the ones you were talking about and just got relisted?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sierra-2016-Headlamps-Pair-OEM-/272319936477?vxp=mtr

Same seller, potentially same pictures from the add I bought them from. I have the damaged pictures before I sent them back. I'll try to post them up later.

[zmnypit]

Alright sorry it took so long. Things have been hectic around here. So I just tried to wire these https://www.theretrofitsource.com/morimoto-xchange-switchback-drivers.html#.V5j0bbgrK70 in over lunch and attempt # 1 was a failure. After putting the harness back together then messing with the driver on my work bench I think I found my problem. There are two outputs, One for the blinker and one for the DRL. However using some LEDs on my bench you cannot share the ground on the outputs. If you do they both stay lit with the trigger wire is powered. Separate the grounds and it works as advertised. However, there is only one ground coming from the headlight/harness so im not entirely sure this is going to work. Anyone have suggestions? I plan on messing with it again in few.

 

Heres they way I attempted it:

 

I cut the purple wire (DRL), Yellow wire (Blinker) and black wire. On the end closest to the original plug:

 

Purple wire to white input 12v wire

Yellow to the yellow trigger wire

black to black

 

On the new plug/headlight side

White wire to purple wire

yellow wire to yellow wire

 

Now this leaves the two grounds. If you hook them to the ground on the new plug side nothing happens, Ground them to the chassis nothing happens.

 

 

Also tried this method:

 

Using the white/black for DRL

Yellow tied into blinker and same deal. Nothing!

http://imgur.com/a/Xjau9

Edited July 27, 2016 by zmnypit

[abominable z71]

Alright sorry it took so long. Things have been hectic around here. So I just tried to wire these https://www.theretrofitsource.com/morimoto-xchange-switchback-drivers.html#.V5j0bbgrK70 in over lunch and attempt # 1 was a failure. After putting the harness back together then messing with the driver on my work bench I think I found my problem. There are two outputs, One for the blinker and one for the DRL. However using some LEDs on my bench you cannot share the ground on the outputs. If you do they both stay lit with the trigger wire is powered. Separate the grounds and it works as advertised. However, there is only one ground coming from the headlight/harness so im not entirely sure this is going to work. Anyone have suggestions? I plan on messing with it again in few.

 

Heres they way I attempted it:

 

I cut the purple wire (DRL), Yellow wire (Blinker) and black wire. On the end closest to the original plug:

 

Purple wire to white input 12v wire

Yellow to the yellow trigger wire

black to black

 

On the new plug/headlight side

White wire to purple wire

yellow wire to yellow wire

 

Now this leaves the two grounds. If you hook them to the ground on the new plug side nothing happens, Ground them to the chassis nothing happens.

 

 

Also tried this method:

 

Using the white/black for DRL

Yellow tied into blinker and same deal. Nothing!

http://imgur.com/a/Xjau9

Are you still trying to get the DRL's off when the turn signal is on? I thought Gen5 was supposed to provide a wiring harness for that? If so based on the unit you are using it is probably having issues with the voltage dropping when the turn signal is on, it looks like it's intended use after reading the link is for constant power. it looks like all that "driver" is, is a Single pole double throw relay.

Edited July 27, 2016 by abominable z71

[zmnypit]

Are you still trying to get the DRL's off when the turn signal is on? I thought Gen5 was supposed to provide a wiring harness for that? If so based on the unit you are using it is probably having issues with the voltage dropping when the turn signal is on, it looks like it's intended use after reading the link is for constant power. it looks like all that "driver" is, is a Single pole double throw relay.

Thats correct. It's been over a month and last I heard they are still working on it. Figured I would attempt it myself and see what happens. It works as long as the outputs have their own 12v/grounds. Looked easy on paper lol.

[TXTruk15]

Thats correct. It's been over a month and last I heard they are still working on it. Figured I would attempt it myself and see what happens. It works as long as the outputs have their own 12v/grounds. Looked easy on paper lol.

 

keep working it! you are trailblazing for the rest of us!

[abominable z71]

Thats correct. It's been over a month and last I heard they are still working on it. Figured I would attempt it myself and see what happens. It works as long as the outputs have their own 12v/grounds. Looked easy on paper lol.

This is just some food for thought that I noticed. Not sure if you did the body lift on your truck or not. But there are two small ground wires in the front on both the right and left sides below the headlights. These grounds tie into the head lights, specifically the turn signals, I know this because I forgot to reconnect the passenger side on my truck after doing the body lift and the turn signal lamp out light came on and the turn signal wouldn't work on that side. I mention this because even though there is a ground wire that comes into the factory head light plug it still required that other ground to be connected for the turn signal to function. The head lights worked but the led running lights and turn signal were out until i reconnected that ground.

[zmnypit]

This is just some food for thought that I noticed. Not sure if you did the body lift on your truck or not. But there are two small ground wires in the front on both the right and left sides below the headlights. These grounds tie into the head lights, specifically the turn signals, I know this because I forgot to reconnect the passenger side on my truck after doing the body lift and the turn signal lamp out light came on and the turn signal wouldn't work on that side. I mention this because even though there is a ground wire that comes into the factory head light plug it still required that other ground to be connected for the turn signal to function. The head lights worked but the led running lights and turn signal were out until i reconnected that ground.

The grounds are good and everything works with no issues. The driver is looking for individual circuits, one pos/neg. I can hook up an led to each side and since its using its on ground it works perfectly. One cuts off the other comes on and so forth.

[abominable z71]

I think I follow you. I think the problem is the ground on the input side is not grounded to the same ground as the input to the driver, making the driver incapable of powering the coil in the relay to open the DRL circuit and close the Blinker circuit. The black wire on the input side needs to go to the chassis ground on the front of the truck below the head light. the two black wires on the output are not needed and the white wire splices between the purple the yellow wire splices between the yellow, without having the wiring diagram for the trucks head light circuit and only the pictures that are posted for the driver this is my best guess based on the way I have seen these headlights behave and the few posts I've seen on the forums regarding their wiring. i have attached a sketch you might want to try or may help you make headway on your issue.

[abominable z71]

 

 

If you watch the video at the 3:55 mark these are the ground cables I'm talking about, they are part of the circuit for the turn signals and day time running lights, mine quite working when this wasn't connected and this is where I think the black input wire needs to connect.

[zmnypit]

I think I follow you. I think the problem is the ground on the input side is not grounded to the same ground as the input to the driver, making the driver incapable of powering the coil in the relay to open the DRL circuit and close the Blinker circuit. The black wire on the input side needs to go to the chassis ground on the front of the truck below the head light. the two black wires on the output are not needed and the white wire splices between the purple the yellow wire splices between the yellow, without having the wiring diagram for the trucks head light circuit and only the pictures that are posted for the driver this is my best guess based on the way I have seen these headlights behave and the few posts I've seen on the forums regarding their wiring. i have attached a sketch you might want to try or may help you make headway on your issue.

Thanks a lot! I saved your pic and will give it a shot this weekend. One other thing I've noticed is a forum member on here has swapped his 15 for 16 Silverado LED headlights with only a repin and they function just like OEM. I wonder if the 16 SLT lights even needed this harness if they are going on a 14-15 SLT.

[crookedpat]

Thanks a lot! I saved your pic and will give it a shot this weekend. One other thing I've noticed is a forum member on here has swapped his 15 for 16 Silverado LED headlights with only a repin and they function just like OEM. I wonder if the 16 SLT lights even needed this harness if they are going on a 14-15 SLT.

 

That would save a lot of problems. Think it would still require a BCM flash so nothing hyper flashes or throws messages?

[zmnypit]

 

That would save a lot of problems. Think it would still require a BCM flash so nothing hyper flashes or throws messages?

According to him he did not have to reflash. Even when I tested before sending my lights to gen5 I never got the hyperflash so not sure why exactly the resistors are in place. Posting our convo below:

 

 

 

Does the 16 silverado have the led blinker in the LED DRL? If so does your DRL shut off when the blinker is on? I put the 16 SLT lights in the 14 sierra and the DRL doesn't shut off when the turn signal is activated. I was just curious if your's did and if you solved it. BTW, awesome work on the conversion.

DRL strip turns 'off' on turn signal while truck truck is out of park. They stay on while parking lights are 'on' but dimmer and during night while auto lights are 'on'

On gear

Parking lights On

 

That's exactly what I'm trying to achieve. Did you build or buy a switch back circuit?

Actually the module on the headlight is the one that does the switch back function and cuts off the DRL while signal. All I did was repin the connector. Not sure why yours is not doing it. There might be a wire on the wrong spot but Im not too familiar with gmc set up. Let me see if I can find a diagram for the 2016 gmc headlight connector

 

Edited August 1, 2016 by zmnypit