Jump to content

2016 SLT lights in 14/15 SLT/All Terrain almost done

zmnypit
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 910
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

zmnypit
zmnypit

Sorry I'm a little late, I've been in the Caribbean for a little over a week and just getting around to posting pictures. I know there was a lot of fuss of whether or not the SLT lights would so I bit

WSFD6107
WSFD6107

Well, I finally got around to installing my 16-17 LED headlights. A huge thanks goes out to @zmnypit for fabricating the adapter harnesses. 

zmnypit
zmnypit

One more night pic that should help.  

Posted Images

zmnypit Enthusiast

zmnypit

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thx! Anyone installing these with the resisters should know that the resisters get pretty hot. Hot enough to burn you and melt plastic so make sure you attach it somewhere on metal and away from anything that could melt...

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

One thing to note is they only produce heat when the turn signal or flashers are on. But yes don't mount them to plastic. Use BringTheRain's location of the radiator core support next to the head light.

 

So how was the night time drive? :driving:

Edited by zmnypit
BringTheRain403 Senior Enthusiast

BringTheRain403

Posted
Posted

Much better. I noticed the beam is a lot wider and reached further out than my original lights with HID's in them. I also didn't notice shadows in the beam like my other lights...

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Skeeter McSkeet Senior Enthusiast

Skeeter McSkeet

Posted
Posted

After a closer inspection, I feel like my cutoff line isn't quite as "crisp" or "straight" as some of the pictures I've seen. I'll take some pictures if my phone will show it tonight. The line seems somewhat jagged. I realize here are steps in the lines and it won't be a straight line from side to side. In between the steps it seems like there's some light scatter. Maybe I'm just paranoid and trying to find a reason I got the used set for cheap still, maybe not. Overall performance seems excellent, no complaints there.

 

 

Sent from my kayak

BringTheRain403 Senior Enthusiast

BringTheRain403

Posted
Posted

Yea I agree my cutoff line isn't as crisp as I was expecting but it's still far better than the old lights.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

zmnypit Enthusiast

zmnypit

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

After a closer inspection, I feel like my cutoff line isn't quite as "crisp" or "straight" as some of the pictures I've seen. I'll take some pictures if my phone will show it tonight. The line seems somewhat jagged. I realize here are steps in the lines and it won't be a straight line from side to side. In between the steps it seems like there's some light scatter. Maybe I'm just paranoid and trying to find a reason I got the used set for cheap still, maybe not. Overall performance seems excellent, no complaints there.

 

 

Sent from my kayak

Did you adjust them where both sides line up with each other? If done correctly you will have one low line and one high line. If not adjusted then you're going to see 4 lines.

 

Yea I agree my cutoff line isn't as crisp as I was expecting but it's still far better than the old lights.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Same here. Did you adjust? For OEM lights these have some of the better lines I've seen. Granted this is the first set of LED headlights I've messed with. We used to have an Audi before my wife's Yukon and it had the cleanest lines. It was HID though.
bJW7yyH.jpg
9Bsnb3B.jpg
Edited by zmnypit
  • Like 1
Skeeter McSkeet Senior Enthusiast

Skeeter McSkeet

Posted
Posted

Did you adjust them where both sides line up with each other? If done correctly you will have one low line and one high line. If not adjusted then you're going to see 4 lines.

 

 

bJW7yyH.jpg

 

9Bsnb3B.jpg

I haven't adjusted any yet, I'll need to go down a touch for the level I have on I'd say. Is it the top screw toward the middle you use to adjust the height? I remember reading about adjusting them a year or two ago but I can't remember.

 

 

Sent from my kayak

BringTheRain403 Senior Enthusiast

BringTheRain403

Posted
Posted

Yea I adjusted mine so the cutoff lines are level as at the same height as my old ones. The cutoff lines aren't bad but certainly not on the level of a FRX projector with HID's

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Skeeter McSkeet Senior Enthusiast

Skeeter McSkeet

Posted
Posted (edited)

Went to adjust and looked through the top hole, I'm not seeing the white adjustment screw where the 2015 was, where is it on the 2016 lights?

 

 

Sent from my kayak

Edited by SkeeterMcSkeet
kj3475 Enthusiast

kj3475

Posted
Posted (edited)

You should ALWAYS level your lights anytime you change them out.

 

For you guys trying to level... Pull right up close (6" or as close as you can get) to a flat wall on a level surface... mark your cutoff w/ some tape or marker.. usea tape measure from ground up to make sure your cutoff is at the exact same height as your projector... ... Use your tape measure and back up exactly 25'. Your cutoff should be a few inches lower (2-4" or so I forget) than the marks you made previous, if not adjust as needed.

 

What it all boils down to is that your cutoff should never be any higher than the height of an average cars sideview mirrors... whatever the heck that is. Above method gets ya real close.

 

It's been a while but correct me if I'm wrong that the driver side will always be a touch lower than passenger due to projector housing?

Edited by kj3475
Lgetz Senior Enthusiast

Lgetz

Posted
Posted

Was interested in doing this mod but after pricing with my source at local dealer forget it. $1,800 plus tax too steep in my book for headlight upgrade. I know could look for used sets on eBay but don't want to take a chance with scratched lenses and broke tabs.

zmnypit Enthusiast

zmnypit

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Was interested in doing this mod but after pricing with my source at local dealer forget it. $1,800 plus tax too steep in my book for headlight upgrade. I know could look for used sets on eBay but don't want to take a chance with scratched lenses and broke tabs.

That's why the majority aren't buying new. Its not really a chance when the sellers have it described or pics shown. One of mine did have some scuffs on the lens but I wet sanded and buffed it and like new again. Of course they were no where near $1800 tho.

kj3475 Enthusiast

kj3475

Posted
Posted

Yup, 1500grit should get any imperfections.. compound, and you've got brand new looking lenses. I bit mine w/ compound every few months to stay crystal clear.

 

Broken tabs aren't the worst thing in the world either. Alot of sellers will have the piece of tab that you can plastic weld back one and function correctly.

 

Theres a few sets out there now that are steals...

zmnypit Enthusiast

zmnypit

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Few more harness made tonight and dropping off at the post office in the morning. I have 2 sets left for anyone that's interested that I haven't PM'd or texted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,660 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coastie05
      Replacing 2.7L on 2021 Silverado with 2023 2.7L

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Another 6.2L engine failure!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Rattle in the rear!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • Buckwild27
      Gas Prices

      By Buckwild27 · Posted

      I have 2 choices. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...