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Adding Second Battery/ Battery Isolator


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Posted

Look on amazon for reviews, its 2016 man come on. 2nd they stated the studs look to be substandard, amazon has it listed for $61ish.

 

I have the blue sea switch, very high grade and includes a combine option when needed. But I don't use the ACR, you will need Blue sea w/ ACR, https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-120A--Battery/dp/B000RZNP5K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465501952&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+sea

Posted

Look on amazon for reviews, its 2016 man come on. 2nd they stated the studs look to be substandard, amazon has it listed for $61ish.

 

I have the blue sea switch, very high grade and includes a combine option when needed. But I don't use the ACR, you will need Blue sea w/ ACR, https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-120A--Battery/dp/B000RZNP5K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465501952&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+sea

Thanks. I wanted to see if any one on here had used it before on a GM truck. A lot of the reviews are referencing usage on boats, utvs and rvs. Few reference auto installations.

 

Also, how does the one you are using do since it is a 125 amp isolator with a 150 amp alternator? Is that not underrated? On here it seems like everyone is suggesting a 200 amp isolator.

 

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Posted

What's the benefit (other than having a back-up) of a second battery?

 

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Posted

What's the benefit (other than having a back-up) of a second battery?

 

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I have a shell on my truck that is setup with a sleeping platform. My plan is to have the second battery so that I can use it to run lights and an inverter without draining my starter battery.

 

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Posted

I have a shell on my truck that is setup with a sleeping platform. My plan is to have the second battery so that I can use it to run lights and an inverter without draining my starter battery.

 

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Cool. Are you going deep cycle on the accessory battery? Or can you not run them in parallel I'm guessing...

 

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Posted

Thanks. I wanted to see if any one on here had used it before on a GM truck. A lot of the reviews are referencing usage on boats, utvs and rvs. Few reference auto installations.

 

Also, how does the one you are using do since it is a 125 amp isolator with a 150 amp alternator? Is that not underrated? On here it seems like everyone is suggesting a 200 amp isolator.

 

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If its rated for marine usage it will work no problem on automotive, trust me there are similar switches like Blue sea, but nobody comes close.

 

The red switch can handle 350amps, the ACR is the weakest link at 120 amps in the kit I linked to amazon, I seriously doubt you'll need a anything over 120amps. Your telling me that little $60 dollar cheap pep boys is going to out preform the blue-sea switch & ACR?

 

I use my switch on my boat yes, it can be used on anything that needs a 2nd bank! 18 wheeler guys use this switch for the 12, 24 & 32 volt systems for appliances like frig.... and microwave, TV's the ACR will be your limiting factor, they make ACR's go up to 500amps if needed.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

What's the benefit (other than having a back-up) of a second battery?

 

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To answer Jon's 2 month old question, the benefit is you have a way to start your truck. That may not mean much to someone that is never in a place where there is no help and no help is coming in the foreseeable future. I go to some remote areas. If my truck doesn't start, it could be days or weeks before someone comes by and cell coverage is often not available.

Posted

Since this thread has been resurrected i thought id add.. the cheap isolators that say are rated to 90a can only deliver 45a per

battery bank. The good ones like the blue sea can deliver the full amount to each battery bank... so if you had a 150a alternator and a 150 amp isolator one battery is charged, one is depleted it can receive the entire charge load of you alternator..but also remember your 150a alternator doesnt really supply 150a to the battery, you have to factor in the load to run your truck.

 

Not to mention it may make no difference whatsoever but for larger marine application or solar? Maybe.... it probibly has some value.

 

Also you have to have a isolater rated for whatever load your alternater puts out.i went 190 amp 3 bank and i believe i have a 150 amp alternator...overkill? Not if i ever upgrade to a HO alternator.

Posted

I had my truck fail to start this morning. I charged it for a bit and started it, pulled it out of the driveway to get to my Camaro and took the Camaro to work. But, the point is: I've been putting off putting a second battery in this truck for 2 years. I'm committed to putting a second battery in now. I looked at high end batteries like Optima, Odyssey, XS Power, etc.. But I found cost, availability and warranty challenges with them and did read about some failures at seemingly short life. So, I've decided to go with conventional batteries of "good" quality rather than seeking the "best". Costco batteries are made by the same makers as Die Hard batteries. They're not costly, are readily available, and warranty is fantastic.

 

My initial thought for the battery management is the Blue Sea isolator. The 120 amp version can handle 210 amps for short periods. I'm thinking this may be what I'm going with.

bluesea%20ACR_zpspjcq56wp.jpg

Posted

I went with an odyssey. It was 270 shipped has a 5 second spike 1500 hot cranking amps?.... pretty impressive and small compared to the large xs power which is 699 but 1800 cold cranking amps...

 

There are inbetween options but dont go to cheap. Its the heart of the system..

 

I have the factory for oem operation, odyssey for winching and lights.

Then i have 2 different banks of the 2 largest and 2 second largest duralast deep cycles.i wish i got 4 identical ones but it was an emergency purpose..if i plan to do winching thats not a recovery ill utilize the duralast battery banks.

Posted

I went to Costco but didn't buy their battery. I ended up at the SAMs Club next door and they had a SAMs label AGM battery made by Johnson Controls. I bought one and installed it for the primary. It has like 770 CCA. 42 month replacement warranty. Just under $200. The Blue Sea isolator and all the cable and terminals should be here in a week. I'll think about what I want for a auxiliary battery. The great part about the modern isolator is that a different size battery doesn't matter.

 

BTW, Johnson Controls makes the Optima batteries as well as many others.

Posted

Will 150 Amps be too low?

 

 

It could be--and at the worst of times. It's not a problem for charging, it's a problem the other way around. If your main battery dead and you need to start, especially in cold weather, 150 Amps likely isn't going to do it. Think about it--you have a battery with 800 CCA or whatever but you can only use 150 of them?

 

Here's the system I got: http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/40121 . The auto switching electronics will do up to 250 amps seamlessly and with the push of the button you have a direct parallel connection rated to 500 amps.

 

Is that a bit overkill? Probably, but the whole reason most do this is in case of a real emergency, worst case scenario. Exactly when you don't want to find you need a backup plan for your backup plan.

 

You guys won't believe how much peace of mind the extra battery gives. I'm quite often working on something for extended periods of time in the dark using my backup/cargo lights (fancy towing mirror lights, extra backup lights on license plate) as well as bed lights in the shell and not having to worry about getting stranded is so nice (even if one forgets to shut them off overnight). I also have an onboard air compressor that needs to run quite a bit just to fill one tire. I'll be adding a winch as well and they can drain a battery really fast--even with the engine running. I want to add a big power inverter to the bed that could run power tools as well.... And don't forget you need to have the stereo cranked really loud for all of this.....

 

The uses for battery power on a truck are endless for some people....best not to run out! :fingersx:

Posted

150a isnt very much even for none start application.

I sized my setup so in theory all my lights could be left on indefinately as long as the truck is running(most likely moving)

4× 30 amp lightbar is 120a...plus whatever the truck consumed in its factory configuration...

 

So in reality i couldn't leave them on unless maybe full speed in first gear, i am much closer than most setups.. then i have 3 battery banks so im not goint to be stranded anywhere do to battery/charging system.

 

Silinoids(relays?) are nice... so would some V gauges. I just went with battery disconnect switches... there solid and Rated to 180A Continuous or 1000A Intermittent use.Yes ill have to pop my hood but i didnt want any more holes drilled inside the truck.

 

 

 

Spurshot good choice on the battery i was going to recommend diehard platinum.. there made right next to the odysseys but Not much cheaper.

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