Jump to content

Dirt in paint


Recommended Posts

Posted

We should be proud to participate as owners of vehicles with molecule thick color paint weakly bonded to a lead free primer with a Jello hard clear coat finish as our price to pay for reducing the weight of the paint and removing volatile chemicals from the water based clear coat. As such we are entitled to a hearty "Thank You" from the automobile manufacturers for reducing their costs in choosing the most profitable rather than the most durable method of painting $50K+ vehicles as their means of with complying with Government mandates and regulations to save the environment.

 

And either birds have somehow mutated to poop battery acid or these crappy automotive finishes have lost all resilience against their droppings and the splattered guts of insects. Nowadays more important than a first aid kit, toolbox, or heavy blanket in colder climates should be a bird crap removal kit because their poop on a hot finish will permanently etch the Jello clear coat.

 

As concerns "dirt in the finish" - I'd leave it if it was small and encapsulated within the clear coat in an less prominent area on the finish rather than screw around with a lacquer refinishing attempt which is not a given color match, blend and luster under all light conditions and might age poorly against the original finish.

 

And dirt in paint and thin and crappy paint are integrally related. A huge "boulder" of dirt less than a millimeter thick is readily apparent in a color finish that is a few microns thick, whereas one wouldn't even notice in the older few millimeters thick color coat.

Posted

You guys should look into having a professional detailer in your area install a ceramic coating to your trucks if your concerned with protecting the paint.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

My truck has a couple of spots like this. Roof and door. Even has a drip mark. Lol. The paint on our trucks is horribly thin and super soft!

Posted

My tailgate has two spots on it. One dirt spec and one impressions where it looks like someone picked it out when it was wet.

Posted

I had 3 spots in my 2014's paint, my 2016 has 3 spots of dirt and 2 spots where the paint was smudged at the factory and never fixed. When it goes in for the first oil change I am going to have them look at the smudges then.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Went to pick up my truck yesterday after the dealer it was subletted to had it for 10 days. Looks like they buffed out most of the spots (so long clear coat ?), but missed one huge one on the roof, and didn't even touch the huge chunk under the right tail light. Also had a small bit of paint peel off when I removed the tail gate bow tie that they claimed was a rock chip and not covered. However the emblem was properly removed (gentle heat w/heat gun and dental floss) and the paint came off with the double sided tape. You can still see some crap in/under the paint around the "chip" that didn't peel. Short story long, it's going back for round two.post-161534-0-41715900-1472233861_thumb.jpeg

post-161534-0-41715900-1472233861_thumb.jpeg

post-161534-0-41715900-1472233861_thumb.jpeg

post-161534-0-41715900-1472233861_thumb.jpeg

Posted

My 2016 had seam sealer under the paint on the roof. The roof just got repainted a couple weeks ago.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 458 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...