Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've got a 2016 CC LTZ short box and no matter what trailer I pull i have no drivers side turn signal or brake light. I even rewired my trailer (and my buddy hooked up his truck to it and it works fine) and have pulled my buddies boat( didn't work on mine). Still doesn't work. I am bringing it in to the dealership on Monday. But just was wondering if anyone else has had the same issue?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Loose ground somewhere is 99% of all trailer light problems. I was once told by an old time to not rely on my auto lights and to turn the lights on manually. He said it will help "keep the ground clean" whatever in the heck that means. Hopefully dealer can figure it out.

Posted (edited)

Did you check the trailer light fuses in the fuse box under the hood?

This. My 15 Sierra popped both left and right signal + brake light fuses recently. There is 1 fuse for each side that does signal and braking. Running lights are on a separate fuse.

Edited by LowbanksArcher
Posted

This. My 15 Sierra popped both left and right signal + brake light fuses recently. There is 1 fuse for each side that does signal and braking. Running lights are on a separate fuse.

But the truck lights work fine.

Just the trailer has issues.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

But the truck lights work fine.

Just the trailer has issues.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep. The fuses are for the trailer lights only. The truck's signals will still work. If you pop the cover off the fuse box under the hood, I believe they are #16 and #17 fuses. One for left, and one for right. Edited by LowbanksArcher
Posted

Yep. The fuses are for the trailer lights only. The truck's signals will still work. If you pop the cover off the fuse box under the hood, I believe they are #16 and #17 fuses. One for left, and one for right.

Ok. I'll check it when I get home. Thanks.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 7 months later...
Posted (edited)

The left tail light on my 2015 silverado went out completely and when looking through the fuse diagram i am confused on which fuse i need to check to change. Please help guys. Thanks

Edited by Eber
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Did you ever find a resolution for this? I have the same issue. All truck lights work except the passenger running light. The very same bulb works just fine when unlocking and locking. All fuses are ok. Plus almost none of my trailer lights work as well. Just the drivers side driving light. So if it's a bad ground, any idea where the ground is located?

Posted

Good place to check would be your adapter right in the bumper, depending on your location you might get some crud up in there. Another thing to try would be some CRC QD Electronic cleaner in the adapter with the truck OFF. Let it dry for 10 minutes and then try again. 

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted

I have a 16 Silverado with the same problem there are 2 relays in the circuit board that controls each side for the brake and turn signal under the fuse box that if the fuse don't blow it will burn the relay up I just changed the whole fuse box out cost me $232 and about 10 minutes and I got mine working again. Chevrolet has a bulletin out about using cheap fuses causing a lot of trouble. If I can help with pictures message me. Also my camper had a short I used a cheap fuse and that's what took mine out.

Posted
On 7/5/2016 at 7:56 PM, jtruck618 said:

Loose ground somewhere is 99% of all trailer light problems. I was once told by an old time to not rely on my auto lights and to turn the lights on manually. He said it will help "keep the ground clean" whatever in the heck that means. Hopefully dealer can figure it out.

That makes absolutely no sense

Posted (edited)

Last year My 2016 was towing a new boat and brother in laws 2015 was towing a new camper.

 

Both blew their fuses for the trailers lights during a rain storm down the highway at 65.

 

We yanked all the plugs and put di-electric grease in all connections.

 

Now blowing fuses for left rear trailer brake and turn signals in the 2015, in dry weather. We haven’t gone on a fishing-camping trip in the rain yet. But we both have a stockpile of fuses for this year now that we know its the TRUCKS electrical faults.

 

Both trucks all grounds to frame removed, cleaned, reinstalled and covered in di-electric grease.

 

It aint the boat or campers fault. GM’s.

Edited by Paintor
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,958
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    B07
    Newest Member
    B07
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 771 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Missing pieces of the Assembly   Detergency vs Solvency   Not the same thing. Detergency is the mechanism that surrounds solid particulates preventing amalgamation. Usually accompanied by a Dispersant whose job it is to keep those encapsulated particles in Suspension. Solvency keeps things that can be dissolved in solution.    Salt is a solid that can be dissolved. Pepper is a solid that cannot be dissolved. A detergent/dispersant is effective on pepper but a solvent is more effective on salt. As long as the solids remain in either state, dissolved or dispersed then they can be be removed with the oil upon change.    How many wranglers does it take to herd cats? Depends on how many cats your herding. How much sponge does it take to soak up water? How much water is there to soak up? Point is most oil blends start with some herding ability and next to zero sponge and recently even fewer wranglers are being sent to do the same job.    So you start with a dozen cowboys and zero cows but at the drive progresses you pick up cows along the way, but not cowboys. At some point you have more cows that the wranglers can handle and some leave the herd. Deposits. And the API has an acceptable number of cows they are willing to let loose. In the ideal world zero is the right number for he rancher but to the butcher....a few lost is fine. This cow is beat to death. Let's move on....   Solvency isn't something oils on the Walmart shelf care about AT ALL. Problem is, you motor does. Fuels driven varnish sticks rings and only a solvent can keep them in check. The bet is that the solids driven portion that plug the expander rings and the oil drain backs and VVT screens and AFM screens will be an issue long before varnish is. Not that it wont be but if they market well enough the consumer can be kept ignorant enough to either believe it is "normal" (A quart in 1 or 2K is normal) OR is kept at bay longer than the first owner is likely to hang on to the unit. Solvency cost money.    Now the OEM's have John Q. Public buffaloed into the belief that the number cows accumulated along the trail is a known and predictable CONSTANT. It isn't. Nor is the rate at which they crossed paths with them. Only the number of wrangles is constant. Or was. Each new generation of oil sees fewer and fewer of them.    So what happens when the number of cowboys is lower (lower TBN) with each seasons trail but the trial is longer (OCI) and the number of cows along that trail continues increase? (Conditions that promote deposits).    For awhile the blenders were on to something. Better bases are harder to degrade (fewer cows) but that was overtaken by a longer trail (OCI) and improved breeding (More cows) while continuing to reduce the cowboy staffing levels (TBN/Aniline #).    Marketing has been successful. We've fired most of the staff, cows breed line bunnies, the trail is ten times longer and we've convinced the boss his ranch is in better shape that it ever was.    That kids is just the cleaning side. The side few pay attention to.     
    • Mann+Hummel since 1941 per their web site 
    • Looking for this part for my truck. They don't sell just that one piece and to get it you have to pay over $100 even used for the whole air tube. The piece the hose clamp snaps into that is held on by the screw and nut. If anyone has access to one please let me know.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...