Jump to content

Front Suspension Travel


Recommended Posts

Posted

28psi is going to be really close to the trip point for the TPMS sensors. Door card is 35 for front and rear. I run 37 in the front and 34 in the rear. I don't base my air pressures off of the door card but more so how the tire is wearing.

Wow do you have a Z71? Even my non-Z71 rode like shit with 275/55R20's. Under-inflating down to 28psi is dangerous. Ever heard of the Ford Explorer rollover coverup? Ford didnt want to spend money to widen the track or re-engineer the suspension, so they under-inflated the tires. The result was a death trap.

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Wow do you have a Z71? Even my non-Z71 rode like shit with 275/55R20's. Under-inflating down to 28psi is dangerous. Ever heard of the Ford Explorer rollover coverup? Ford didnt want to spend money to widen the track or re-engineer the suspension, so they under-inflated the tires. The result was a death trap.

 

 

Huh, I don't run 28psi. That was from another poster in the thread. Yes I have a Z-71, my truck is a 2016 All Terrain.

Posted

I'm having this same issue on my 2015 Z71 LT. I'm second owner the previous putwo on a leveling kit not sure what size and changed to procomp front struts and left the rear Ranchos. I'm thinking about getting the fox 2.0 front and rear. Sounds like that's the best fix. Now are they adjustable to soften and stiffen the ride up?

Posted

 

I'm thinking these new trucks are for the city boys, who barely ever drive off asphalt. Nice pretty trucks but not for tough work or rough roads. They sure aren't built like they used to be.[/quote ] Glad I'm not the only one who thinks this.

Posted

 

The Z71 package is nothing more than a sticker package with cheap Ranchos. Complete waste of money these days unless you like the interior trim. Like ridethedesert mentioned, the GM factory Ranchos are cheap, made to a pricepoint and are really just labeled as Ranchos to make guys think they're buying the "off-road" version. The black shocks are not much of an improvement. Cheap monotube shocks that give a sloppy ride. I swapped my black factory shocks out at 12k miles and one of the rear shocks was on its way out.

 

If these trucks were made for city boys, they'd ride like a Ram 1500. These trucks ride rough because they're sprung stiffer to handle more load, they're just not equipped with good shocks that dampen correctly. Ford weakened the 2015 front suspension to save weight/money and put a bed in back that can't handle work. Unless you order the HD payload package, the rear suspension sags so bad the bumper drags on the ground. Their 4WD setup is still junk after all these years, with hubs made out of plastic and lock with vacuum, which really sucks when you develop a vac leak a few years down the road. Even the factory bed liner peels off waaay too easy. Ram gave up on "tough" half-tons when they put coil springs in the back. Overly bouncy, soft cadillac ride with horrible rear sag that makes towing miserable unless you add air bags. The interiors disintegrate if you use your truck for work. The paint makes the GM paint look high-end.

 

What he said. Other than the Raptor, Ford suspension is inferior in every way to GM. You think our stock struts suck? Pffft. Theirs are a magnitude of crap more and stiff as hell. Mixed with hard seats you have a bad ride. The only thing good about the new fords is they are very quiet.

 

I just traded my 14 for a 16 All Terrain and immediately changed out the front struts to the bilstien 5100. Rides very good. I need to change the back next after I get new wheels and tires. I swapped my old set over and they are pretty worn.

 

BTW, just to defend rancho a little, I jumped my old truck 100 feet at about 10 feet off the ground in the dunes and the ranchos handled it pretty well and did not blow out. Still work great even up to trading that truck in. So you never know.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I installed the 5100's front only on the third setting. The overall ride is stiffer than the stock black shocks. I cross a bride with a high approach that caused the stock shocks to top out. With the 5100's its smooth as glass on the approach. In town driving on patched streets it rides stiffer. Before I though i felt every little bump, now I really do. On a wash boarded gravel rode the ride is better much more controlled. Overall I'm not as happy as I though I would be with the ride. Its a little stiffer than I would have liked but its what it is. I do have 20 inch tires and I know that is contributing to the feeling ever little bump. I my go to 18's later. It will be interesting to see the reviews on the 6112 vs the 5100 if they ever let them out.

 

I feel like what I'm looking for is exactly what you're looking for, so this review was informative.

 

Would you change anything about your review now that it's been a month? Learn anything else?

Posted

 

I feel like what I'm looking for is exactly what you're looking for, so this review was informative.

 

Would you change anything about your review now that it's been a month? Learn anything else?

The ride is better now. I think the springs and shocks have settled in now and thats inproved the ride for me. I still think if I went to 17 or 18 inch tires it would be just right. I'm thinking about taking my 17 inch spare tire and I have a friend with one and put them both on the front and give it a test just to see if I can tell any difference in the ride.

Posted

My issue with the front suspension is this.....................When traveling and coming upon an expansion joint or sharp vertical DROP in the pavement; it seems like my trucks front suspension extends fully, because I hear a big clunk when going over stuff like this. My truck has the "snow plow prep" package, so I'm guessing "stiffer" coils up front??? What say y'all??

Posted

My issue with the front suspension is this.....................When traveling and coming upon an expansion joint or sharp vertical DROP in the pavement; it seems like my trucks front suspension extends fully, because I hear a big clunk when going over stuff like this. My truck has the "snow plow prep" package, so I'm guessing "stiffer" coils up front??? What say y'all??

My truck did the same thing with the stock shocks. The bilstein 5100 stopped the banging out or top or bottoming out for me. I do not have the snow plow package.

Posted

anyone else with stock ranchos feel like speed bumps are cringe worthy? i have to slow down all the way. Saving for some fox 2.0 not gonna bother with the bilstiens

  • 1 year later...
Posted

anyone else with stock ranchos feel like speed bumps are cringe worthy? i have to slow down all the way. Saving for some fox 2.0 not gonna bother with the bilstiens

Posted

Is incredible that the stock oem struts z71 or standard oem ( I had both a 2014 silverado and now a 2017 z71) works like you don't have shock absorbers installed , the truck bumps like a ball, the oem shocks are garbage

I don't know how GM installed such a poor quality part on these nice pickup.

In my Silverado's I've installed the Bilsteins and everything changed and behaves in a nice way

GM??

Posted

Is incredible that the stock oem shock absorbers ranchos z71 or standard oem ( I had both a 2014 silverado and now a 2017 z71) works like you don't have shock absorbers installed , the truck bumps like a ball, the oem shocks are garbage

I don't know how GM installed such a poor quality part on these nice pickup.

In my 2 last Silverado's I've installed the Bilsteins and everything changed and behaves in a nice way

GM??

Posted

I feel your pain. Literally. This back breaker is a 119" wheelbase RCSB which is currently an all stock Z85 except the under inflated tires. 32 psig cold and yea it made a difference. (17") I also pulled a bunch of castor out of her. It had over 3.5 degrees dialed in. Under mid spec now. More difference than soft tires on small wheels but still far from good enough. IMHO down right dangerous.

 

I'm working on a complete suspension overhaul that happens next weekend that started with springs instead of shocks at both ends.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,952
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Carlos Monteiro
    Newest Member
    Carlos Monteiro
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,079 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...