Jump to content

Lift Blocks


Recommended Posts

Posted

So like a lot of people I thought I wanted a level truck, but not so much anymore lol. I have a 2" RC level up front and 34" Coopers on it. I would like to get some rake back now though. I occasionally have a decent amount of weight in the bed and it does suffer from that nose high problem now with just the level. I also tow a ~4800lb travel trailer. When hitched up and weight distribution properly set up I still have a bit of squat in the back.

 

I really wanted to find a 2.5" block to replace the stock one, but I see my options are basically 2 or 3". I'm leaning towards the 3" and getting shock extensions for peace of mind. My biggest question is with the whole taper/non-tapered debate. I've read threads and threads ranging from current gen to previous gen trucks and the opinions are all over the place. So what has everyone's experience been with tapered vs non tapered blocks on the current gen trucks? I'd really hate to get them in and than end up with the vibration issues.

 

Also, there are SO many companies making blocks and all in very different price ranges. I've been looking at RC and Zone as I see a few guys running them on here. Any suggestions as far as brand goes?

 

Truck is a 2015 Sierra Crew 5.3 Z71 w/ a 2" RC level currently.

 

Thanks for any input you can give!

Posted

I have supreme suspension 3 in non tapered. Had 2 in tapered motofabs on. I have a minor vib at 69 to 80. Either with the 2 or 3 the vib is the same. I say from exp get the 3 in non tapered. I added the shock extended as well. I have sup susp blocks and had to open the hole that the spring tab sits in and grind the tab on the block as it was to long. Wasn't happy. Readylift makes 3 in non tapered w ubolts for about 100 bucks

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks for the input Jeff5347; appreciate it! Anyone else have any experience/input on this? I know there's definitely gotta be more people running lift blocks on their trucks lol!

Posted

I didn't add it but mine had the slight vibe before I ever touched the truck. So the vibe I have was unaffected by the blocks

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Thanks for the input Jeff5347; appreciate it! Anyone else have any experience/input on this? I know there's definitely gotta be more people running lift blocks on their trucks lol!

 

I know its been awhile since conversation has taken place in regards to your initial inquiry and concerns. I have a 2015 GMC Sierra SLT CC and I have the exact same concerns that you have with the loading of the truck. I have a 2" level on the front and I am curious to what decision if any that you came to, if you decided to use a 2"-3" block did you noticed any adverse changes (drive line vibrations) in the the truck.

 

Thanks.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see.   I think this is what I'm looking for.   3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL
    • Then you haven't read your book. It also says check every 400 miles.   If you need to add multiple quarts in that distance then reading the stick isn't the issue. Put the two together and it will make sense. Read it all.     
    • Following up on my topic, I put an O2 sensor in it which seems to have got rid of all the b2s1 codes (I ended up having multiple codes). Next I’ll try to figure out the P0011 but I might focus on exhaust manifolds first, they’re getting pretty rusty. I’m hoping this thread will help someone in the future.
    • I’m going off the instructions.
    • My expectations are a bit higher.    No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights.  No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier.    All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things.  Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior.    Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system.    OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)   I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass.    A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years.      Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...