Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2005 5.3. I have recently been getting the code that my cat is going bad. I could either take them off and bypass the o2 sensors or replace the cat witch would cost more money. I am trying to maximize my fuel economy. I am running a 2.5 inch lift with 33 a/t. I am currently getting 13. I don't have a cold air intake or programmer.

Posted (edited)

Could be the o2 sensor after the cat is bad.

 

If you are dead set on removing the cats, your are gonna have the light on anyway unless you get a custom tune.

 

If the truck is your driver, not just a mud toy, fix it and keep the cats.

 

More than likely, all 4 o2 sensors could be tired/lazy.

 

Fuel economy? 33" tires and a lift?

 

Funny stuff...

Edited by anumber1
Posted

Could be the o2 sensor after the cat is bad.

If you are dead set on removing the cats, your are gonna have the light on anyway unless you get a custom tune.

If the truck is your driver, not just a mud toy, fix it and keep the cats.

More than likely, all 4 o2 sensors could be tired/lazy.

Fuel economy? 33" tires and a lift?

Funny stuff...

To replace all four o2 sensors it would be about 400$.
Posted (edited)

Looks a lot closer to $200 for all 4 sensors.

 

And that would be buying the most expensive parts at Rock Auto

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2005,silverado+1500,5.3l+v8,1431121,emission,oxygen+(o2)+sensor,5132

 

You mentioned you were all about the fuel economy.

 

Nice, fast, fresh o2 sensors are high on the list of making your truck run as good as it can. That would go much farther than removing your catalytic converter and continuing to run your ride in a poor state of tune.

 

Regardless of whether or not you decide to remove your emissions equipment or not, getting your truck to run to perfection is the best way to ease the pain of low miles per gallon (or turn your 33"s through the bogs or across the desert).

 

While you are at it, a nice, clean MAF sensor is pretty important also...

 

It's not like it's 1981 anymore. The cats on your truck flow pretty good, rarely go bad unless abused and with a stock motor, you will not realize much in performance gains pulling them.

 

Have you been running your truck with a bad misfire for a while? Do you go through a lot of oil? If so, then the cat may really be dead.

Edited by anumber1
Posted

Do new O2 sensors improve mileage? How often do they go bad? I'm sure mine are originals, 11 years old and 140k miles...

O2 sensors definitely have a finite lifespan.

 

Even if they "work" enough to not throw a code, they get "lazy" with age and miles.

 

Typically, you can back probe them to see how fast/well they are cycling (measuring in milivolts).

 

So, yes, in short, you can improve mileage if you have slow/lazy sensors.

 

I treat em like tune up parts. Change plugs, change at least the upstream o2 sensors.

  • Like 2
Posted

Also, you need to troubleshoot what made the cat go bad. Most likely with the loss in fuel economy, understanding you have 33's and a lift, your computer is dumping more fuel in to compensate for some type of lean condition. I would first check for a vacuum leak. Plug a scan tool in and see what the fuel trims are.

 

If your cats are in fact bad, they are getting cheaper. I just bought one for my son's Monte Carlo for $165 off of Amazon.

 

Second if this is your DD and you want better fuel economy, return it to near as stock as possible. Or, park it and get something better on fuel. I wonder if over on the Prius forums they have people wondering how to increase the payload or towing capacity of their cars.....

 

I parked my Silverado, bought a Chevy Cruze Turbo Diesel for commuting. 42-46MPG on the highway.

  • Like 1
Posted

And, I forgot to mention, I replaced all four O2 sensor's on my pickup earlier this summer.

 

I got all four sensors from Amazon for $144.24. AC-Delco Part # 213-1702.

  • Like 2
Posted

Is their a special socket for O2 sensors?

 

Removing cats will not improve mpg, it could get worse with no O2 sensors. The GM cats have been highflow since they Vortec'd back in 1996.

Posted

Is their a special socket for O2 sensors?

 

Removing cats will not improve mpg, it could get worse with no O2 sensors. The GM cats have been highflow since they Vortec'd back in 1996.

 

Yep.

 

This is a cheap example. Probably fine for occasional use. I have a K/D version of this tool and a 3/8 drive, "crowfoot" version.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/78-in-Oxygen-Sensor-Socket-69022.html

 

 

 

I really only use the "special" tool to install a new sensor. I clip the wires on the the sensor to be removed and use a standard deep well socket or box end wrench most of the time.

  • Like 1
  • 5 years later...
Posted
On 8/11/2016 at 11:56 AM, anumber1 said:

hey i have a 03 5.3 chevy silverado and i want to do a cat delete and replace with headers which headers would be best for it to sound loud?

 

 

  • 3 years later...
Posted

Technically, if you do not have converters, present on your vehicle that is less than twenty five years old, that will fail inspection. 

More and more places are going to emissions testing also. The emission testing is tied in with the state's computer and they will know who does and who does not passed emissions test.

Depending on if You are ever stopped for a DOT inspection on the road, You could receive a fine for the catalytic converter removal.

 

  • 11 months later...
Posted
On 2/15/2026 at 12:29 PM, Kelly88guillory said:

I have an 09 Silverado 1500 with a 5.3, has anyone gutted or removed catalytic converters? How’d it run afterwards? What did you do to avoid the check engine light? 

Re-read the 10-year-old thread. 

It will run the same.

You will have to get a custom tune to solve the check engine light.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...