Jump to content

2 Stroke Engine Troubles


pacodiablo

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am having some trouble getting an old 2 stroke engine to run. It has been sitting for 10 years, and today I decided to try and get it running again. I put in a new spark plug and air filter. I also cleaned the carburator and various other parts. I assembled everything back correctly, and put gas in, but it still won't start. The magneto seems to be fine, it doesn't stick when you pull it, but the d**n thing just won't crank. It says to use 40:1 mixed fuel, but all I had around was 20:1, but honestly I don't think it would make any difference. Any ideas as to what to check next?

Posted

Is it the kind that you have to prime first before tring to start?

 

Maybe check the choke too, if it has one.

 

Hope that helps :D

Posted

I would suggest pulling the airfilter until you get it started just to get more airflow and then put it back on when it gets running. Also how did it run last time you used it? It may need a new top end if it hasnt ever been rebuilt depending on what this engine was from. Is there good spark? Try putting fuel directly in to where the spark plug goes as well that might help.

Posted
I pulled the filter already...I am going to test the plug tomorrow. I will probably try putting some starter fluid in too.

Try some ether. That is probably what you mean by starter fluid. 2 cycles, except for quality engines like Stihl, are a PIA. Since you are having problems it would be better to have the mixture that it asks for. My guess is a fuel problem that could even be dry rot pickup line. I had a $79 McColluch (sp?) with a dry rotted carb diaphragm. They wanted $90 for a carb rebuild kit!!

Posted

The diaphram in the carb more than likely is the problem, the smallest pin hole can cause major problems. If it will run with gas being put in the carb but not on its own then it points to a diaphram, old gas that turns to a varnish can really mess up a fuel system. As for 2 cycles wd 40 is a better starting fluid because it will not dry flash the piston area and cause more problems. It works great on my Yamaha super jet 650CC 2 stroke for getting started after a long winters rest. :D

Posted

I have decided to rebuild the whole thing. I could just take the carb off and rebuild it, but the whole engine could use a going over. I tore everything apart this morning. The piston seems to be in good shape and it should not be too much trouble to rebuild this thing. The gaskets all crumbled in my hands, so I know that I need to make some new ones, but that should not be too much trouble.

Posted

Since your just up the road in the Bull city if you need help just let me know. :D

 

I can let you try some 100:1 Amsoil 2 cycle oil. Easier starting, vertually smokeless and it already has the fuel stabilizer in it for those long storage periods.

 

:D

Posted

Hmm, sounds interesting. I may give it a try when I finish the engine.

 

I took most of it apart and did a huge cleaning. I rebuilt the carb and am going to buy new gaskets tomorrow. Most of it is back together now and the end is in sight (hopefully). The carb was a bitch to work on, but I got it back together without losing anything.

 

Can't wait to finish so I can move on to my next project, a 4.0L Cherokee I6...

Posted
d**n those things suck :D

 

I just buy new ones when they screw up too much tedious work :D

I am thinking that I should have gotten a new carb. I am worried that I made it worse, I am just keeping my fingers crossed. That thing was a major PITA to rebuild.

 

That and the fact that a bunch of the screws had frozen over the years...this one screw would not come out no matter how much pounding, WD 40 or Liquid Wrench I used.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
    • Same here, first I bought a few filters to get me going right after I bought my truck to do some short distance initial oil changes, then realized I could buy a case lot for less as they drop the price if filters or trans oil etc is bought by the un opened case lot as well as the discount for buying the vehicle there. So I have filters for a while but its good to know going forward, knowing to expect it to be a different part number and looking filter at the dealer and not be confused over it and think they are handing me the wrong part.
    • Saw Inglewood was in the National New last night for hail. Allot of hail. front end loader level hail. 😱
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...