Jump to content

P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire)


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone experienced a P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire) DTC on 5.3 with AFM that was NOT caused by a stuck value, collapsed lifter, bad lifter solenoid or flat spots on the #4 cam lobes? I have an obvious misfire at idle which makes the engine stumble about every two seconds and I notice a slight RPM fluctuation on the tach. The fluctuation never changes more than 100 to 200 rotations. When it is revved up and held at any RPM it stumbles still, but is not as noticeable. I don't hear any valve-train noise, but while sitting in the truck, I can definitely feel it shaking.

While driving, I don't notice the anomaly AS much, but it is still present. Haven't pulled the #4 plug out yet, nor have I performed a compression or fuel pressure test with leakdowns.

I haven't had any DTC or DIC readings that indicated the traction control or stabilink was malfunctioning, only the P0304 #4 misfire, so I don't suspect, but cannot rule out a throttle body or TPS fault. Doesn't appear to be burning any oil either.

Has anyone ever solved the P0304 DTC with just a spark plug, coil pack or plug wire? I would rather not have to pull the top end off to fix a craptastic AFM issue.

 

 

**Update from today: I erased the P0304 DTC and drove it about 50 miles today. The misfire is not completely gone, but it has seriously improved. It did not activate the MIL. I'm inclined to think that it's probably not internal because it somewhat improved, I hope.

On another note, how many times must the ECM detect the anomaly before it activates the MIL? I seem to remember 3, but maybe there are more specifics to it than that.

Posted

Probably just a fouled plug. Pic from my 2009 5.3 engine but it did use a good bit of oil. That plug had about 70000 miles on it. I cannot remember what the cylinder number was but seems like it was on drivers side maybe 2nd or 3rd one from the front. It fouled that plug more than once over the years.........

 

post-127028-0-32940400-1475571806_thumb.jpg

post-127028-0-32940400-1475571806_thumb.jpg

post-127028-0-32940400-1475571806_thumb.jpg

post-127028-0-32940400-1475571806_thumb.jpg

Posted

Just yesterday I took mine in for cylinder 7 misfire. I would have looked around more on my own, but I was in a hurry and its still under warranty, so I figured I'd drop the truck off and let them waste their time diagnosing.

 

They told me the plug wire was loose. They replaced with a new wire. I drove it home last night, no issues anymore.

Posted

 

Conditions for setting P0304

 

 

• DTC P0010, P0011, P0101, P0102, P0103, P0106, P0108, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0128, P0220, P0335, P0336, P0502, P1258, P3401, P3425, P3441, and P3449 are not set.

 

 

• The engine speed is between 650-6,200 RPM.

 

 

• The ignition voltage is between 11-18 volts.

 

 

• The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between -7 and +130°C (+19 and +266°F).

 

 

• The fuel level is more than 10 percent.

 

 

• The antilock brake system (ABS) and the traction control system (TCS) are not active or detecting rough road.

 

 

• The power management is not active.

 

 

• The ECM is not in fuel shut-off, or decel fuel cut-off mode.

 

 

• Excessive drive wheel slip is not detected.

 

 

• Power Take Off is disabled.

 

 

• Cylinder Deactivation is not in progress.

 

 

• A manual transmission with a throttle position less than 95 percent.

 

 

• DTC P0300-P0308 runs continuously when the above conditions are met.

 

Posted

@MyFavTruck - That plug doesn't look that fouled! Ha

 

@coke813 - Thanks, I'll give the wires a good look.

 

@rdnkcpa - That's on my list.

 

@Coby7 - Does that mean all of those conditions must be met to activate the P0304 misfire DTC?

Posted

Got that info right ''OUT'' of the GM server maintenance manual. Cut and paste

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...