Tenscourts' 2016 LTZ/Z71 CCSB 4WD Silverado

tenscourts · September 26, 2018

I used a 2 sided tape but if I had it to do over again I'd probably have used a Velcro or something removable

I'm thinking of doing the same thing on my 2018 Sierra SLT. How did you mount the boxes on the battery and isolator on the electronics box? Velcro? Epoxy?

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tckirkpa · September 27, 2018

Great. Thanks for the info. I think I’ll try high strength industrial Velcro and see how that works. Also, what gauge wires did you run from batteries and to the fuse block? I was going to run OO to/from batteries/isolator and 6 gauge to fuse box. And it looks like there is another battery connection on the side of the battery that you tap for the fuse box? Lastly, some folks have talked about aux battery throwing a caution light, probably due to sensor detecting unusual loads. Had any of this issue?

sorry to be a pain, just want to plan it out as nicely as you’ve done.

Edited September 27, 2018 by tckirkpa

tenscourts · October 5, 2018

Very sorry for the delay. I'm usually more on top of things. I used custom 2 guage cables from powerwerx. Actually started with 1/0 and they we're so thick I couldn't route them. The 2 guage is way thicker than the factory cables. The connection on the side of the aux battery is a 100amp breaker. Makes it easy to disconnect the ground for the aux when I'm working on things.

Great. Thanks for the info. I think I’ll try high strength industrial Velcro and see how that works. Also, what gauge wires did you run from batteries and to the fuse block? I was going to run OO to/from batteries/isolator and 6 gauge to fuse box. And it looks like there is another battery connection on the side of the battery that you tap for the fuse box? Lastly, some folks have talked about aux battery throwing a caution light, probably due to sensor detecting unusual loads. Had any of this issue?
sorry to be a pain, just want to plan it out as nicely as you’ve done.

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tenscourts · October 5, 2018

Oh and I haven't seen a single caution light related to the battery.

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tckirkpa · October 6, 2018

great. thanks again for the info. I got my new battery tray and hold downs this week and installed them without any issue. going to get the battery today, then wire everything up. I'll keep you posted. all your info has been very helpful. I can verify that these parts, all from amazon, fit perfectly in my 2018 SLT to replace the original, useless battery tray. easy swap out

GM 22989633 TRAY ASM-BODY BAT

General Motors, RETAINER, 14005061

GM 11519527 BOLT ASM - HX HD W/CON WA

tckirkpa · October 13, 2018

Well, finally got all the parts this week and installed everything yesterday. It's working perfectly. I don't have much hooked up to the aux battery yet other than my ham radio. Only differences from your install were; I used heavy duty velcro to lock down the items. Works ok, but the ACR is heavy enough that without it being wired up, it did come loose. the other higher components all stayed put with the velcro and even the ACR is good once it's wired. with the velcro, I can pull stuff a bit easier to get at things if I need to. I had to file the 5/16 negative terminal to get it to fit at a decent angle on the starter battery terminal. I also trimmed the cover that goes on the positive side of the power distribution cover on the starter battery to accommodate the positive wire. I connected to one of the open slots on this distribution panel, since those are already fused. I used woven mesh wire cover mostly. Otherwise, same same. I really appreciate all the documentation you put here. It helped me tremendously.

tenscourts · October 14, 2018

I may be seeing the pictures wrong but it looks like you have the acr wired to the fuse block with both a hot and a ground. I did that myself and realized I only needed ground. The other wire worked as a trigger wire and caused it to stay linked 24/7. When I removed the hot it functioned as expected. Also I can confirm this works as a jump start backup after leaving the ignition on last weekend. I had to manually push the yellow button to link the batteries and start the truck. I had ran the oem battery too low to crank on its own. At some point I want to wire up the switch so I can link from the cab.

Well, finally got all the parts this week and installed everything yesterday. It's working perfectly. I don't have much hooked up to the aux battery yet other than my ham radio. Only differences from your install were; I used heavy duty velcro to lock down the items. Works ok, but the ACR is heavy enough that without it being wired up, it did come loose. the other higher components all stayed put with the velcro and even the ACR is good once it's wired. with the velcro, I can pull stuff a bit easier to get at things if I need to. I had to file the 5/16 negative terminal to get it to fit at a decent angle on the starter battery terminal. I also trimmed the cover that goes on the positive side of the power distribution cover on the starter battery to accommodate the positive wire. I connected to one of the open slots on this distribution panel, since those are already fused. I used woven mesh wire cover mostly. Otherwise, same same. I really appreciate all the documentation you put here. It helped me tremendously.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

tckirkpa · October 14, 2018

I only have the ground from the ACR to the fuse block. The other red wire goes to my radio in the cab. It does look like it though. I confirm that it disconnects about 60 seconds after shutting the engine off and reconnects about about 30 seconds after I start the engine. I want to put the switch in the cab someday too, but just popping the hood to manually connect them works for now. I may want to find an equivalent switch with blue backlighting to match dash lighting. I’d also like to find a way to cover those studs on the ACR. I dont like having those exposed on the hot side. I think I’ll add those under hood lights you have next....

Edited October 14, 2018 by tckirkpa

tenscourts · October 14, 2018

Good deal! Just making sure. Great job. Looks good!

I only have the ground from the ACR to the fuse block. The other red wire goes to my radio in the cab. It does look like it though. I confirm that it disconnects about 60 seconds after shutting the engine off and reconnects about about 30 seconds after I start the engine. I want to put the switch in the cab someday too, but just popping the hood to manually connect them works for now. I may want to find an equivalent switch with blue backlighting to match dash lighting. I’d also like to find a way to cover those studs on the ACR. I dont like having those exposed on the hot side. I think I’ll add those under hood lights you have next....

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tenscourts · October 18, 2018

Had my truck detailed this weekend. The detailer takes really professional pictures. I've been waiting for these to post since my latest upgrades.

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tenscourts · October 18, 2018

And a couple more...

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cbrsilv15 · October 19, 2018

Looks great. What was the LSP he used? Paint sealant/coating?

tckirkpa · October 21, 2018

Pics and truck look great! BTW, how do you get your truck profile to show up at the bottom of your posts? I kinda like that.

Edited October 21, 2018 by tckirkpa

tenscourts · October 21, 2018

Pics and truck look great! BTW, how do you get your truck profile to show up at the bottom of your posts? I kinda like that.

I took the link for my build and put it in my signature using the Tapatalk app.

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mdf21 · January 25, 2019

On 10/17/2018 at 8:19 PM, tenscourts said:

Had my truck detailed this weekend. The detailer takes really professional pictures. I've been waiting for these to post since my latest upgrades.

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I am really glad and really upset I found your build thread. My ‘16 LTZ is very similar looking. I built my own “bed slide” and added lights in the cap. I am due for new tires and had the ridge grapplers on my short list. How have you liked them? They look great on yours. I haven’t decided with what size I’m gonna go with since I have 22” wheels

I also like the stance you have going on. I have the RC bottom spacer in front and the 2” rear block but was considering adding the top spacer for a bit more height in front and maybe a 3” block in back.