Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I installed the gm OEM remote start kit on my truck this weekend and figured I would post this to assist anyone installing the kit

 

Here are GM's instructions

 

 

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 1-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 2-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 1-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 2-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 1-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 2-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 1-2.pdf

2014 and up truck Remote Start Transmitter Package Installation 2-2.pdf

Edited by lawnboy-5247
Posted

After you remove the front sigh shield you must replace the hood latch, It is held on with 2 bolts. The red arrows point at the bolts you need to remove, the green arrow points to where the barbed zip tie fitting goes to secure the harness

post-150684-0-41898300-1478833602_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-41898300-1478833602_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-41898300-1478833602_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-41898300-1478833602_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

You then run the harness along the air dam attaching it with zip ties to the hood release cable, The branch with the ground lug drops down in front of the washer fluid bottle to a ground point on one of the motor mounts. The ground already has one wire on it and faces toward the front of the truck, you access the ground from underneath the truck.

post-150684-0-82694800-1478833858_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-82694800-1478833858_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-82694800-1478833858_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-82694800-1478833858_thumb.jpg

Edited by lawnboy-5247
Posted

next the harness runs along still following the hood release cable. The factory instructions say to only put the harness through 2 of the 3 clips on the side of the engine bay but I put it through all three, I then zip-tied between the clips

 

Green arrows are clips Red are where I zip tied

post-150684-0-16179100-1478834257_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-16179100-1478834257_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-16179100-1478834257_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-16179100-1478834257_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Now you zip tie the harness to the main body harness, making sure there is a low spot to act as a drip loop and then cut a slit in the small upper protrusion on the grommet to prepare to run the wire through. the red arrow is where you cut the slit and the green arrow points to the remote start harness the zip tie is just below the green arrow. Normally there would be nothing else going in in the same place but I have also installed tow mirrors on my truck and those also go in through the same part of the grommet

post-150684-0-78210900-1478834401_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-78210900-1478834401_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-78210900-1478834401_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-78210900-1478834401_thumb.jpg

Posted

now you must remove the black box to get to the other side of the grommet, the other side of the grommet is located around where the green arrow is. The three red arrows are the 3 bolts that hold the junction box on.

post-150684-0-80403100-1478834737_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-80403100-1478834737_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-80403100-1478834737_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-80403100-1478834737_thumb.jpg

Posted

here you can see where the wire comes through into the cab. this is also where I stuck my tubing through in order to push the wire through the grommet

post-150684-0-73014500-1478834970_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-73014500-1478834970_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-73014500-1478834970_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-73014500-1478834970_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

Now you route the green wire to the black plug on the bcm and plug it into pin 24, pin 24 may or may not have a green and brown striped wire already in it that you will need to remove and tape back. The green arrow is pointing to the wire I removed and the red arrows point to the wire from the harness I connected in its place.

 

After this you are done accept for dealer programming and applying some automotive silicone sealer to the point where the harness enters the cab through the grommet to seal the cut you made.

 

I hope this helps some of you guys, If you have any other questions I will try to answer them

post-150684-0-44404800-1478835100_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-44404800-1478835100_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-44404800-1478835100_thumb.jpg

post-150684-0-44404800-1478835100_thumb.jpg

Edited by lawnboy-5247
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Well I got the fobs and bcm programmed today for $100 and everything works great, I even got an added bonus. My truck did not originally come with the theft deterrent system equipped but now it is activated and functioning (it was obviously already installed but just needed to be turned on in the computer). I am unsure if this is the way the reprogram is supposed to be or if its an accident on the dealers part but either way i'm not complaining.

Edited by lawnboy-5247
Posted

Well I got the fobs and bcm programmed today for $100 and everything works great, I even got an added bonus. My truck did not originally come with the theft deterrent system equipped but now it is activated and functioning (it was obviously already installed but just needed to be turned on in the computer). I am unsure if this is the way the reprogram is supposed to be or if its an accident on the dealers part but either way i'm not complaining.

Is yours a work truck model? The standard cab long bed? I'm asking because that's what I bought a few months ago from car max and when I took it to the dealer to get my fobs programmed the tech told me they couldn't install the remote start and that I had to take it to an aftermarket shop. Guess I'm going to have to go to a new dealership!

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

  • 11 months later...
Posted

Does your truck have Onstar Remote Link?  Mine has Onstar basic, but I don't pay for anything fancy.  Some descriptions mention  "For The Remote Start System To Be Compatible With The Onstar Remote Link System, The Vehicle Must Be Equipped, From The Gm Factory, With The Remote Start Feature."

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/17/2017 at 6:26 PM, Winston Hale said:

Does your truck have Onstar Remote Link?  Mine has Onstar basic, but I don't pay for anything fancy.  Some descriptions mention  "For The Remote Start System To Be Compatible With The Onstar Remote Link System, The Vehicle Must Be Equipped, From The Gm Factory, With The Remote Start Feature."

Call a few dealers and find out. 

 

I asked my sales guy for a friend and he said if you have Onstar already, then you just have to call Onstar and have a reset done to enable the app.

also, a coworkers bf had it installed in his by the dealer when he purchased the truck, he got a WT model, and it works with the app.

Posted

OnStar

On ‎11‎/‎17‎/‎2017 at 6:26 PM, Winston Hale said:

Does your truck have Onstar Remote Link?  Mine has Onstar basic, but I don't pay for anything fancy.  Some descriptions mention  "For The Remote Start System To Be Compatible With The Onstar Remote Link System, The Vehicle Must Be Equipped, From The Gm Factory, With The Remote Start Feature."

 

48 minutes ago, gabbygenier said:

Call a few dealers and find out. 

 

I asked my sales guy for a friend and he said if you have Onstar already, then you just have to call Onstar and have a reset done to enable the app.

also, a coworkers bf had it installed in his by the dealer when he purchased the truck, he got a WT model, and it works with the app.

 

OnStar gets data refreshes for their customers every 10 days.  As long as the remote start was programmed by the dealer and recorded to GM, onstar will get the data from GM and they will know if there is a change in the vehicle having remote start. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have changed oil and filter for years by starting a cold engine to warm oil up, let it run 5-10 minutes depending on temperature. Drain until it starts dripping, refill with quantity from owners manual or get it close.   
    • I changed the factory fill oil in the rear diff of my truck for the first time today and the miles is close to 9000 on the truck. There was a lot of fines on the magnet, a very thick layer but working it through my fingers it all felt like mush and as most know it appears like graphite, so no surprise chunks anyway. Certainly was time to do it from my thinking and could have been done sooner but the oil didn't look awful but sure wasn't new looking and never expected it to either. I did use some solvent to help me clean out the bottom area of the axle housing, just get any other stuff settled at the bottom washed and wiped out of the housing for the bit of effort it takes. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 in the easy packs to try out what they are like and I used up 4 packs and didn't spill much at all in the process but did take all four of the packs and go to the work bench and emptied them into a measuring container and there certainly was some in them that added up to something, then poured that into one of the easy packs and squirted in what I could get out of it. I would say the level is within 1/8th of an inch of being level with the threads at the fill plug so just the perfect amount. Once again, more than what GM says the fill volume is but computes with what others are adding to their rear diffs as well. 
    • So speaking of oil consumption with my L8T as I just changed the oil yesterday and made the switch over to Amsoil SS 0W-40 from the Mobil 1  5W-30 Truck and SUV I just dropped out. 2900 miles on that oil as well as  68 hours on that oil ( so used to equipment with an hour meter and that becomes valuable information to compare with others as well ). Once again the oil use was so very little, I am going to say it dropped under 1/16 of an inch on the dipstick. No towing was done and this interval was from early spring until now.    One interesting item to note is that going by the 5 quart jugs I was using before from Mobil, it was showing that I was putting in 8 US quarts to bring it to full if not slightly over the full mark according to their jug markings. Granted I did allow more drain time this time and in part because the engine oil was only lukewarm as I started it and let it idle and not for long enough to get the oil itself hot ( the engine was up to operating temp ). The oil in that state just seemed to take forever for it to drip out but not only at the drain plug but at the oil filter housing as well, perhaps I had never quite gotten all the oil out before and I could have still waited longer but as it was I waited well over 3 hours. I think next time if I have the time I will do an experiment by dropping the oil and lets say leave the pan under it for 15 minutes, then switch to another pail and let it drip out overnight and measure how much more oil comes out. So this time and yes I ended up getting it just over the full mark as I was experimenting with trying to get the level to the add mark after I had run it and then waited some and then added a bit and waited for a certain amount of time for it to settle to the add mark. I very well may not have waited long enough for that experiment but I got to the add mark, then dumped in a full quart and waited some and checked and then waited some more and it crept up more ... and then finally oops, it was slightly over full some hours later when it really had settled all it would. I find this engine sure takes time for the last bit of oil that gets poured in to finally make its way into the crank case. I can only guess at how much too much I added as per maybe a 1/10th of a quart. I had poured in 8.5 quarts going by the quart containers as per 8 quarts and 16 us ounces. I was shocked at how much this was off compared to the prior oil changes and if those larger jugs and they are not marked accurately enough or they contain slightly more than what they say, or the drain time factor made that much of a difference. But I know on this forum there have been others who have said they have put well over 8 quarts in their L8T and now I have also going by the Amsoil true quart containers. Its a confusing convoluted mess up here in Canada with some oil manufactures packaging is in true US quarts, some is also in true US quarts containers on an even number of quarts but also marked in liters which becomes the odd ball volume of a fractional amount of liters. Then there is the Liters only containers, no US markings as its a true metric container and only measured in Liters to an even number of Liters. But remember we used to have Imperial Gallons and Imperial quarts as well !. 
    • Holy smokes. Clearly not a deal on that truck. I just mean in general, matte or painted trim is becoming more normative than chrome, but I know the Black Optics packages on various vehicles are being sold as uplevel trims. They look really good, but sheesh. It's just paint and plastic.
    • I Wouldn't Know Where to Begin    Oh I know where I would begin but I'm just one of over eight billion people on this rock. Eight billion versions of where the goal post is. How large it should be. How far to kick from. What ball is the right ball. Elevation. Age.....are you getting the point? It isn't about disagreeing with one individual. It's about agreeing only with one individual. One's self.   Agreement comes when multiple people hold the same point already. THAT is the goal of an education. Building the Social Contract. That thing that allows us to all read this sentence. We've agreed on the alphabet and how to arrange those letters into words we agree upon whose meanings hold true for everyone entering into that contract. Those words arranged into a sentence form an idea and several sentences strung together in a paragraph convey an argument for or against or inform the reader of a state, condition or perhaps reveal a things nature. Paint a word picture. Make oneself known.    This contract is not limited to words although they are often explained by words. Things like numbers and their usefulness. Physics, Chemistry, Medicine, Music, Art and so on.    The frequency of middle C (C4) is 261.63 Hz is a first principle. We build on that to make music we all can enjoy even if we all can not compose or play. You don't have to master it to make it enjoyable and useful.    So why is the Beginning so difficult? Why is agreement so elusive?   Everyone "Signs" the contract (when receiving that education in obtaining it)  but fewer and fewer in this world have any intention of living by that contract. They find exploiting that contract more advantageous. Disruption. With intent. Without intent. In Ignorance. In your face. With a double dog dare you. With a hold my beer. In resistance to that contract and in spite how it looks on us. It permeates the very air we breath.    In this way the contract is subject to advantage. Abide by it when it serves you, disregard it when it doesn't. Unpredictable and self-serving. Corrosive.....Toxic........   It says a lot about a persons character to disregard the contract, the truth, first principles. None of it good.        ********************************************************   https://medicine.yale.edu/news-article/character-vs-personality-who-we-are-and-who-we-aspire-to-be/   Just an interesting article.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...