Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So if it pushed your truck while it was in Park, you don't know what that could do to a transmission.

 

I don't want to offend any dealership mechanics here, but I've witnessed them installing aluminum wheels on a truck with an impact gun and regular socket, not the torque measured kind. They just drilled that lug on there and gave it hell. Hey, it's not their truck! I don't even trust these guys to change my oil. A few bad apples shouldn't ruin the barrel tho.

 

You're right, it doesn't look bad. But the estimate is just that, an estimate. Wait until they get it apart. Guaranteed they will find more issues. Nobody has X-ray vision.

 

If it's worth it to you and your son, I'd fight tooth and nail for a new truck. Especially if you've been with your carrier for a good amount of time.

 

Best of luck.

Posted (edited)

Seriously not safe? It is a brand new frame.... They have no obligation to give you a new truck, it will be fine repaired. Maybe try parking in the driveway or garage next time?

 

Tyler

 

Hmm, before you're so quick to judge and tell him where to park, let me know how you think parking in my driveway turned out?

 

20151116_075041_zpsfyidl6wc.jpg

 

In regards to the OP's issue, new frame will be perfectly fine. I'd rather that over having the body shop try to straighten the old one out.

Edited by bndawgs
  • Like 3
Posted

I'm like you OP, I would never trust them to put a new frame on the truck. You know they aren't torqueing every part to specification, they don't even torque down lug nuts correctly. I would ask a dealership how much they would give you for trading it in wrecked vs. not wrecked. Take the difference in that number and ask the insurance for a diminished value claim on the vehicle. Then trade that sucker in for a new one! Hopefully you are not upside down on the vehicle. Just my .02.

Posted (edited)

Be sure to ask for diminished value. Carfax and others will have a record of MAJOR damage. When its time to trade, bend over.....Vaseline not included.

Edited by muddkatt
  • Like 4
Posted

 

Hmm, before you're so quick to judge and tell him where to park, let me know how you think parking in my driveway turned out?

 

20151116_075041_zpsfyidl6wc.jpg

 

In regards to the OP's issue, new frame will be perfectly fine. I'd rather that over having the body shop try to straighten the old one out.

 

Yes. The frame will be replaced with an OEM fame. It will not be repaired. That is no longer an option. I am just trying to decide if I want to fight with them for a total loss and get me a replacement vehicle.

 

Right now my repairs are at about $12k and the truck is values about $36k. He said I am at 35% right now and need to be around 60%. But I didn't push on him. I thought about telling him I don't feel that it is safe.

Posted

Fight the fight and don't give up. At the very least, depending on your state laws, you deserve a LARGE finished value payout to make up for the loss in value. From a safety standpoint I'm sure the shop will return it to a previous condition state, but that does not mean the paper trail is clean.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

My Tacoma had the frame replaced for frame rot. They could barely put it back together right and it was at a dealership that was replacing frames everyday. Unless they are giving you an extended warranty on the work preformed, I'd push for the total. If they won't trade it right in.

Posted

Did the driver that hit your truck have insurance. Have your insurance co. sue for a new truck. Or get lawyered up. You can do as stated above trade it in as is and turn insurance over to dealer for repair.

Posted

So after two days of battling back and forth with the insurance adjuster they still won't total it out. It's getting a new frame unless I want to get an attorney. And that's not me.

 

My local dealership is medium sized and said to let the body shop do the work. They contract it out to a company that specializes in it. Two or three guys do it in one day. $3k for the frame and $2k in labor. $7k for all the rest of the body work. All OEM Parts. I insisted.

 

He really didn't care about "diminished value". Has anybody else ever been successful with a diminished value claim? I'm sure it will now be on carfax. And most people don't want to buy a vehicle that had frame damage. This whole situation sure doesn't seem fair considering I wasn't even in my truck when it was hit.

Posted

So after two days of battling back and forth with the insurance adjuster they still won't total it out. It's getting a new frame unless I want to get an attorney. And that's not me.

 

My local dealership is medium sized and said to let the body shop do the work. They contract it out to a company that specializes in it. Two or three guys do it in one day. $3k for the frame and $2k in labor. $7k for all the rest of the body work. All OEM Parts. I insisted.

 

He really didn't care about "diminished value". Has anybody else ever been successful with a diminished value claim? I'm sure it will now be on carfax. And most people don't want to buy a vehicle that had frame damage. This whole situation sure doesn't seem fair considering I wasn't even in my truck when it was hit.

You're absolutely correct, it's a crappy situation. Diminished value will depend on the insurance company's decision. Sadly, yes, it will show on the Carfax.

Posted

Try to get it written off if that is the case. We did a frame swap on a 2016 2500, it was a pain in the ...., Airbags and all the wiring had to be redone. Most of the stuff for powertrain is mounted on the frame, all that has to be transferred after they lift the cabin

Posted

Hey guys. I have a 2015 GMC Sierra. While parked in the street someone lost control and hit the rear. The body shop called me yesterday and said they think the frame needs to be replaced not repaired. This seems crazy to me. The truck is new. Only a year old. They want to tear it apart and replace the frame. I feel like it will never be the same. What do you guys think? Am I making a big deal out of nothing? Should I start pushing my insurance for a new vehicle replacement? Let them replace the frame and trade it in? My son drives this truck and I want to know it's safe and reliable. Thanks guys.

Being such a new truck, they will not total it unless the frame, engine, etc. all need replaced and it adds up to more than what the truck is worth. I wrecked my 2014 and it needed the frame replaced due to the something that connected the wheel to the frame not having an aftermarket application out yet and no other way to replace it other than a new frame....idk something. Anyways, the shop that did mine sucked and I found body mount bolts missing and the ones that were attached to my cab were loose, needless to say the manager and I had a conversation and he assured me the body mount bolts that were missing were part of a TSB and didn't need to be there.... I LOST MY SH*T. His son was a mechanic so I felt like he was just sticking up for family, I will never take anything back to him again nor recommend him. The 2014 is gone now, dealerships problem. I think it can be fine, just get a good shop.

Posted

My dealership has its own body shop and I would trust them to do the work. However, if this was my vehicle, I'd be also working with the sales department to get a new truck. I would trust a used vehicle that had the frame replaced by this dealer but I am sure I would experience a few hiccups. I would rather deal with the loss up front and drive a new vehicle than drive a rebuild around for years and deal with the loss at trade-in time!

  • Like 1
Posted

i think people are overreacting. find a good shop with good reviews and you'll be fine.

  • Like 1
Posted

So after two days of battling back and forth with the insurance adjuster they still won't total it out. It's getting a new frame unless I want to get an attorney. And that's not me.

 

My local dealership is medium sized and said to let the body shop do the work. They contract it out to a company that specializes in it. Two or three guys do it in one day. $3k for the frame and $2k in labor. $7k for all the rest of the body work. All OEM Parts. I insisted.

 

He really didn't care about "diminished value". Has anybody else ever been successful with a diminished value claim? I'm sure it will now be on carfax. And most people don't want to buy a vehicle that had frame damage. This whole situation sure doesn't seem fair considering I wasn't even in my truck when it was hit.

On my carfax from a replaced frame it said "Minor Damage" and didn't list specifics hahaha I about busted out laughing when the dealership told me this when I traded it in. Minor damage from hitting a pole. That is what was on the carfax. When the salesman told me this, I just shock my head and said "yep, that sounds about right" hahahaha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...