Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Would like to see some other shots of that

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm out of town right now but I'll try to get more pics and maybe measurements.

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Ended up getting an Alpine PWE-S8 and was disappointed but then thought, hey, I've got a LC2i sitting around. Night and day, I've had to dial everything down below half gain to keep it from drowning everything else out with bass. Amazingly surprised with this little sub as I've had all in one units in the past, it is super clean bass, sounds great with the rest of my Alpine speakers and I was able to free up what precious space I have behind my seats. Little bugger hits, doesn't thump, but actually hits, very crisp. Fits with plenty of space to spare and I've had no issues console rattle.

Edited by Darth_Vader
Posted

Ended up getting an Alpine PWE-S8 and was disappointed but then thought, hey, I've got a LC2i sitting around. Night and day, I've had to dial everything down below half gain to keep it from drowning everything else out with bass. Amazingly surprised with this little sub as I've had all in one units in the past, it is super clean bass, sounds great with the rest of my Alpine speakers and I was able to free up what precious space I have behind my seats. Little bugger hits, doesn't thump, but actually hits, very crisp. Fits with plenty of space to spare and I've had no issues console rattle.

 

So your setup is an Alpine PWE-S8 and LC2i? Do you have Bose?

Posted (edited)

So your setup is an Alpine PWE-S8 and LC2i? Do you have Bose?

Yes, an no Bose on this truck, but wanted to mount a sub in the center console where the Bose was. I had a '14 LTZ with Bose and this setup hit 3-4x harder with the gain dialed up.

Edited by Darth_Vader
Posted

Yes, an no Bose on this truck, but wanted to mount a sub in the center console where the Bose was. I had a '14 LTZ with Bose and this setup hit 3-4x harder with the gain dialed up.

That this ridiculously thin! Seems like the perfect size too. Nice!

 

I still like my setup though. I like having separate components.

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Posted

That this ridiculously thin! Seems like the perfect size too. Nice!

 

I still like my setup though. I like having separate components.

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

I normally do but in the regular cab you run out of space fast and honestly don't need anything much bigger to make your ears hurt. The Wife's Wrangler Unlimited on the other hand has a Fosgate P3 12" connected to 600w and I get a months worth of bass riding in it for 30 seconds!

Posted

What if you just added an external amp plus this lc2i controller to the stock bose sub and box?

 

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

Fire...

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Posted

Fire...

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Lmao, probably get that shortly after launching the cone out of the speaker!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

 

Yes mine does, all of it. The center console is ON the box snug, If I can I'm going to make it have a few mm between the console and the box. I don't like that it's that snug.

 

 

If there is that much interested here is what I'll do.

 

I'll use the extra material I have to refine my fitment make sure it's reasonable, and post new pics. Basically I want the center console to fit perfectly for you, I had to work at it to get everything back together just right. Then I'll put a few out and see what everyone thinks. If there is more interest I can take more orders.

 

Just to be upfront with everyone I'm traveling for work on Sunday and will be gone a week, so the earliest I'll be able to get started building these would be 3/10. Maybe sooner but realistically it would be that weekend. I'll get the second version made this week if there is interested which it seems like there is.

 

Once I've refined the design I'd sell them for $200, seems to be the going rate for an empty custom stealth box these days. I have no idea what shipping would be because I haven't weighed the box yet and I'd need your ZIP to calculate it.

 

If you are interested in me building you one of these send me a PM with your ZIP.

 

I'll need 5 people to be serious about it though, which it seems like there is already so just PM me and we'll work the deals. We can do Square Cash, Venmo, or PayPal. 50% down to cover materials and the balance before shipping. I prefer square cash but if you're more comfortable with Paypal that's fine.

 

The only other stipulations would be speaker type and that I can only guarantee it to fit the 2014 Sierra 1500 Crew Cab with bucket seats and the Bose subwoofer. If you don't have that truck buy at your own risk. I imagine any 2014-2017 with bucket seats and the center console will have the space but I can't make any guarantees around that.

 

One additional note is that I did have to trim the bottom part of the dash, it looks like there were mounting points for plastic panels in the trucks that didn't have the center console. I couldn't tell from andreej's pictures but it looked like he did the same thing. If you look at my pics you can see the part that I trimmed just above the box. It serves no function in my truck and won't affect the structural integrity of the truck, or your ability to revert to the stock sub.

 

Only fits:

  • 2014 Sierra 1500 Crew Cab with bucket seats and the Bose subwoofer
  • JL Audio 8W3v3-4 8" Subwoofer

Includes

  • Custom Box, glued and screwed.
  • Gold plated speaker terminal
  • Black Rubberized coating. (carpet won't fit)

 

I may update the design with brackets if the fitment requires it after I rebuild it.

 

 

P.S.

andreej, if you want first dibs on the sales, just say so, I don't want to step on your toes since you did this first. I just used your idea and guessed at the measurements. I don't know how to mention users without quoting so hopefully you see this.

 

 

I'll make a separate post with the people who have asked so far because I think there were already five. First come first serve an all.

 

 

Any luck getting the measurements for this sub box?

Posted

 

 

Any luck getting the measurements for this sub box?

 

 

Not yet, I've been crazy busy and haven't had the time to pull apart the center console again. Hopefully I'll be able to get to it soon.

Posted

I ordered one of these boxes and my console came in from gm parts direct !! I already have an alpine 5 channel laying around from my old truck, can't wait to get this thing together. interested to see what the sub will do may have to go with monoblock amp ?? will pick up the jl sub from my local dealer and the lc2i.

Posted

I ordered one of these boxes and my console came in from gm parts direct !! I already have an alpine 5 channel laying around from my old truck, can't wait to get this thing together. interested to see what the sub will do may have to go with monoblock amp ?? will pick up the jl sub from my local dealer and the lc2i.

 

Which box did you order?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 450 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...