Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 10/15/2018 at 9:29 PM, pgamboa said:

Great to see you back! Sorry to hear about ankle surgery. Hope/Pray for a quick recovery.
 

 

 

 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Thanks, Phil! Been a busy year, but I'm hoping to get back into documenting some things, trying some new stuff out, seeing what kind of fun we can have! Going under the knife tomorrow, for the second time, but I'll actually be in the road to recovery after this surgery!

 

-Kyle

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Have had some people who want to try themselves and attack this but need some extra info, so here you go!  This is the addresses, commands and responses for the factory heated seat switches (works with the seat cooler switches too) on the LIN bus.

 

Poll Command Passenger at 35ms
20 30 F5 61 FF Wake Command
61 Status Poll (Leave this blank, will return switch status that corresponds below)

 

Poll Command Driver
80 30 F5 61 FF Wake Command
C1 Status Poll

 

Driver seat frame ID is C1
Heated Back
Off: C1 00 00 00 00
Low: C1 00 09 00 00
Medium: C1 00 0A 00 00
High: C1 00 0B 00 00

Full Heat
Off: C1 00 00 00 00
Low: C1 00 05 00 00 
Medium: C1 00 06 00 00
High: C1 00 07 00 00

AC
Off: C1 00 00 00 00
Low: C1 00 0D 00 00
Medium: C1 00 0E 00 00
High: C1 00 0F 00 00


Passenger seat frame ID is 61
Heated Back
Off: 61 00 00 00 00
Low: 61 00 09 00 00
Medium: 61 00 0A 00 00
High: 61 00 0B 00 00

Full Heat
Off: 61 00 00 00 00
Low: 61 00 05 00 00
Medium: 61 00 06 00 00
High: 61 00 07 00 00

AC
Off: 61 00 00 00 00
Low: 61 00 0D 00 00
Medium: 61 00 0E 00 00
High: 61 00 0F 00 00

 

Good luck!

Kyle

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Kyle,

Really appreciate you taking the time and sharing all this info. Pretty sure Ive read and watched every article or video on the internet related to installing Lin controlled heated seats in an older car. Was starting to think it would be impossible until I saw your youtube videos. It did take quite a bit of searching to find this forum, and just about jumped up and down once realizied the rest of your findings were posted here. Especially since ive already purchased the front and second row heated seats and door panels with switches from a newer donor tahoe. Im getting ready to purchase all the items you listed but do have a few questions. Since I have 4 seats trying to heat, thinking I will need to buy double of everything you listed? Or do you think I can use Lin 1 for the driver front seat switch and driver second row seat switch together? And Lin 2 fot the passenger front seat switch and passenger second row seat switch together? Im thinking will probably have the same issue between the driver and passenger 2nd row switches response being same like you had with the front switches. But not sure if it will be a problem having the 2 driver switches together on Lin 1 and 2 passenger switches together on Lin 2. I know will have to buy 2 of the 4 channel mosfet switches for the seat heaters though.  Also, curious if you would have any insight on the workings of the bcm? I do have the bcm and wiring from the donor car. Do you think it would be possible to do a passlock bypass on the donor bcm and install it as a standalone for just the seat heaters and factory switches, not controlling anything else. Keeping my original bcm also installed to control everything like normal? This has also been something Ive searched endlessly for on the internet. Not finding anyone ever trying and posting or knowing if it would work. Any info you can provide would be greatly apprecited, as I would say you would be the only person that might know the answer....Thanks again....Sean

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Sean,

 

You are really going to the extreme!  Ditch the BCM, not worth the hassle as there is a lot of communication going on that will keep the thing from even wanting to start to work. You are headed in the right direction, the only issue you are going to have is the rear heated seat switches are going to have different addresses, the commands are going to be the same most likely but you will have to figure out the addresses.  You will need probably need two Canny's as it is now as I haven't had time to dig in further to try and figure out a way of getting all the switches on the same LIN channel without having them respond.  Not saying it can't be done I just haven't spent a lot of time trying to do it.  Your best bet is to find someone who has the rear heated switches that is nice enough to let you put a LIN sniffer on the switches to try and capture data to see what the addresses are, that is how I got the original addresses for the front ones.

 

Good luck!

Kyle

  • Like 1
Posted

Glad to see you back and hope the surgery went well. Could you PM me? Need to get more info on this if you have a sec. thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey so with this controller I can add heated seats to a truck that doesn’t have them using factory switches?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 months later...
Posted

All,

 

I wanted to share an update on Harlech (OP).  He underwent surgery today.  For some reason, i thought he had surgery months ago.  He actually had several surgeries between then and today.

 

He has responded to me and is doing well, but is in recovery mode.  He asked me to let you all know that once is back at 100%, he will be back to update this thread.  

 

Thanks!

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I have successfully completed this mod using Harlech's parts list, although I'm using factory heating elements. It works great and is relatively easy, but I did need Harlech's programming wizardry assistance 

The only draw back is the pulse width modulation used to control the 3 heat (L-M-H) settings needs adjusted as all 3 settings are extremely hot. I'm sure this has to do with me using the factory heating elements as they are designed to utilize a thyristor feed back signal to the bcm or seat module to control element temp and there is no way of utilizing it. This is by far the best/easiest way to add heated seats utilizing the factory switches. I'm planning on adding heated seats to the back seats using this same method. Big thanks to Harlech for all the work in figuring this out 

Canny-power board box.jpg

working switches.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

That’s awesome I’m hoping I can get him to program mine?. I have the harness built and the factory bezel and buttons and the canny 7 all wired up ready for programming . 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
    • It was never mandated.  Ever.    Automakers were incentivized to install it by getting CAFE credits to help with their vehicle fleet fuel economy scores.  They were being handed money/CAFE credits to install it.  Which is NOT a mandate.       The current admin removed the incentives that were behind them installing it.       
    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...