Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

http://knowhow.napaonline.com/3-types-spark-plugs-whats-difference/?cid=social_facebook_04112017

 

 

 

  1. You are here:Home
  2. Maintenance
  3. 3 Types of Spark Plugs: What’s the Difference?

8140352476_641e919433_k.jpg

3 Types of Spark Plugs: What’s the Difference?

Gasoline-powered engines come in different shapes and sizes, but they all require three essential elements: air, fuel and spark. The spark makes its way through a distributor, which sends an electrical current along an insulated wire to the individual spark plugs, timed to coincide with an injection of fuel to produce the combustion stroke. Changing spark plugs is normal over the course of any vehicle’s life, and when it’s time, you’ll find you have options.

There are three main types of spark plugs to choose from, so the question becomes: Which is the right type for your car?

Plug Design

The metal center of spark plugs is exposed only on the ends. One end connects to the wire, bringing the spark. The other end holds two electrodes that, once the plug is threaded into the block, poke into the combustion chamber. The middle portion of the plug is encased in porcelain to keep the metallic core insulated from the rest of the block. A precise gap at the end forces the electricity to jump from one electrode to the other, causing a spark that ignites the air–fuel mixture. It’s important that the metal core is highly conductive, heat resistant and hard enough to keep its shape under the stress of the combustion process.

Copper

Due to its high conductivity and resilience in the face of heat, copper cores are the oldest and most commonly installed spark plugs. Additionally, manufacturers love it because it’s the cheapest of the three to produce. The Achilles heal of copper, however, is that it’s a relatively soft metal and doesn’t hold up as well under the pressures of time or keep its sharpness as long as the other metals.2565748422_a6f61d8b72_b.jpg

Platinum

Platinum plugs are still copper at their core, but they are platinum plated on the ends to provide extra strength and increase lifespan. As a metal, platinum is stronger than copper, with double plated platinum being — you guessed it — even stronger than that. Unfortunately, it isn’t quite as conductive, which makes it less efficient in the short term. In the long run, though, its lifespan will outlast copper plugs every time. Many people consider the copper vs. platinum contest a draw, as platinum is more expensive upfront.

Iridium

The last type of metal used is iridium. Like platinum, it’s used on the end to fortify the electrodes for longer life. These are the most expensive plugs available, but they’re not technically higher performing, as they are also slightly less conductive than copper. Still, they last longer than the others and have the highest temperature tolerance of the three. Certain cars are designed such that proper performance and fuel economy actually demands them.

Plug Replacement

When making the choice to replace old plugs, first consult your owner’s manual. If a specific plug is recommended, stick with that. Otherwise, if you wish to upgrade to iridium, make sure the plug you’re replacing is of similar design, or you might actually do yourself a disservice. Be especially careful if you’ve made aftermarket modifications to your engine. These might require a specific kind of plug to ensure performance. Most importantly, always read your literature first.

For more information on types of spark plugs, chat with a knowledgeable expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Edited by txab
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

gm is great about the iridiums.

Even my '96 is promoted sales with a rebate by GM.. for iridium plugs made by delco.

 

There really is no arguing.

..an all iron engine, munches platinums just as quick as copper. I agree with the article, there is no real win between those two.

in fact, platinum did something to my catalyst. I was better off with old copper, until iridium.

 

iridium is proving incredible. the resistance for allowing computer controls is fast. Fast switching, no dwell like a copper.

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...