Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My CEL came on a couple of weeks ago. P050D: cold start rough idle. I cleared it, and took it to the dealer when it came back. They charged me $190 to tell me that it is the #7 fuel injector and is no longer covered by warranty. They quoted me about $800 to replace it. Another mechanic quoted me $360. How hard would this be to replace myself? Or is this something that is best sent to a mechanic?

Posted

My CEL came on a couple of weeks ago. P050D: cold start rough idle. I cleared it, and took it to the dealer when it came back. They charged me $190 to tell me that it is the #7 fuel injector and is no longer covered by warranty. They quoted me about $800 to replace it. Another mechanic quoted me $360. How hard would this be to replace myself? Or is this something that is best sent to a mechanic?

Well, it's not too bad. But you're also going to need the high pressure fuel pipe underneath the intake, there's two of them. They are not re useable after they are removed. There is a special tool needed to size the seals on the high pressure injectors as well. The tool is quite expensive and there is no other way to size it. It will tear and leak if you don't have the tool. I just don't know if I'd be too confident in the injector causing this DTC. The misfire monitor would have picked this up prior to setting this particular code. It would have set a P0307 or a DTC related to the injector control. So, in short. You're not going to be able to do this job without the tool.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Since we have no idea what we are replacing an injector on we can't help at all.

I just went off on the category he created the post on. It doesn't matter if this is a 4.3, 5.3 or a 6.2. The new generation V6 and V8's all require this new tool.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

It is a 2014 silverado 1500 with the 5.3L.

 

Sounds like I'll be brining it to a mechanic. Thanks

  • Like 1
Posted

Well, it's not too bad. But you're also going to need the high pressure fuel pipe underneath the intake, there's two of them. They are not re useable after they are removed. There is a special tool needed to size the seals on the high pressure injectors as well. The tool is quite expensive and there is no other way to size it. It will tear and leak if you don't have the tool. I just don't know if I'd be too confident in the injector causing this DTC. The misfire monitor would have picked this up prior to setting this particular code. It would have set a P0307 or a DTC related to the injector control. So, in short. You're not going to be able to do this job without the tool.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope its the injector, common issue, just had mine done about a month ago under warranty

Posted

I just went off on the category he created the post on. It doesn't matter if this is a 4.3, 5.3 or a 6.2. The new generation V6 and V8's all require this new tool.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

This can be done with a straw. A plastic straw from your local convenience store.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Is this a 2014 OP? If so the drivetrain is covered 5yr/100k miles and the engine falls under the drivetrain coverage. That injector should be covered since it is part of the engine, I would call GM and open a case with them on this.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
Anybody find a guide on this?
There are quite a few threads on it. Injectors are not part of the power train warranty. If you have p050d, check with the dealer before replacing injectors because you might have a leaky head that there is a pip on. Another guy went threw and replaced the injectors himself only to find out that he had the leaky heads. He did a good right up on the process of replacing the injectors. Midwest Denali I think is his username.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Yeah just got my truck back brand new motor now all 8 injectors need to be replaced from the dealer they wanted 3k to do it. I declined.thanks for the tip gonna be looking for it!

Edited by Figs95
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I'm having to do the same in my 2015 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3L L83 motor.  I went to eBay where they are selling refurbished OEM injectors.  There compatibility chart said I was buying the right injector when I found out today from the dealer that there are 3 different injectors for this motor.  I guess my first question is why?  Anyway, I had a one in three chance that I bought the right ones.  Well, I didn't.  I did however get all 8 for $109.00  But now I need to ship them back and get the correct ones.  Parts said there is a low, normal, and High flow injectors.  Mine are the normal flow injectors.  But there's more to this story. 

 

First of all there isn't squat on the internet about changing these things.  Some people have said the injectors are accessible without removing the manifold.  Wrong!  You have to remove the manifold and you need to replace the 8 intake gaskets when you put it back on.  Dealer quoted me $5.76 each for the manifold gaskets.  For a rubber rectangle o-ring.  Joke!  Anyway, I also heard you have to replace the fuel rails that the injectors are attached to.  I was told that is not the case.  All I need is the injectors and the gaskets for the manifold.  If I buy replacement injectors from the dealer they are $156 each.  The dealer code shows my cylinder 2 and 3 are misfiring.  I figured I'd replace all 8 while I had it apart.  But the way it's going I may just replace the 2 suspect injectors and get my truck running right again.  It's terrible right now.  Missing, surging, no power, horrible fuel economy.  Kind of pisses me off.  Especially since it only had 47k miles on it when it started having issues.  I've seen several other threads with 2 and 3 year newer trucks than mine with half the miles doing the same thing.  Maybe a problem GM?  Anyway, I found a video on YouTube that shows a manifold swap on the l83 motor and it allows you to clearly see that the injectors are under the manifold, and under a thick piece of foam under the manifold.  Video here:

 

So I'm going to find the right injectors and dig into this myself.  My dealer quoted me $1075 to replace to stinkin injectors.  So I'm going to roll up my sleeves and tackle this problem on my own.  I don't need a dealer to rape me when I can do this on my own.  Pretty straight forward.  Probably medium skill and a few deep socket metrics and a wrench or two and I'll have this thing knocked out.  That video helped me to see how it is laid out and looks under the manifold so I know what to expect.  There is another post on here where a guy tackled it himself but used some strange verbiage about what parts he was removing so it was kind of confusing.  Referring to the manifold as a plastic shield or something.  But he was able to remove the manifold, change the injectors and said he did it all in 2 hours.  So we'll see.  Wish me luck.  I'm going to try and post pics or do a video which seems to be long overdue.  Help some other poor sap out that can't find any info on this seemingly secret process.  I'll check back soon.  

  • Like 1
Posted

I understand your frustration with 47 K miles but parts do fail.

Why buy rebuilt?

Look other places like Rock Auto.

 

Will be looking for pics or a video.

 

:)

Posted
7 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

I understand your frustration with 47 K miles but parts do fail.

Why buy rebuilt?

Look other places like Rock Auto.

 

Will be looking for pics or a video.

 

:)

Yeah I get that but there are a lot of injector failures.  These things aren’t supposed wear out likes tires.   You’d think you’d get 100K plus miles before they start failing.  Not 20-40k miles.   Plus dealer said they do not show up under the code for drive train warranty.  So they are out of pocket. And they aren’t cheap at all. Pay $50k for a truck and I have a 2004 Cavalier that still runs like a top with 140k miles on it.  I paid 1/4 the price for it and it’s ran perfect.  

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Don't buy "refurbished" high pressure fuel injectors.  Refurbished = a used injector someone might have wiped the grease off of it.  There is no refurbishment of the injector.  

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 404 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...