Hillwood Posted May 18, 2019 Posted May 18, 2019 On 5/1/2019 at 7:09 AM, 2015BassMan said: Yeah I get that but there are a lot of injector failures. These things aren’t supposed wear out likes tires. You’d think you’d get 100K plus miles before they start failing. Not 20-40k miles. Plus dealer said they do not show up under the code for drive train warranty. So they are out of pocket. And they aren’t cheap at all. Pay $50k for a truck and I have a 2004 Cavalier that still runs like a top with 140k miles on it. I paid 1/4 the price for it and it’s ran perfect. Did you get those injectors replaced?
DenaliX14 Posted May 18, 2019 Posted May 18, 2019 This is practically the same way for the L83, LT1, L86 etc.
tbarn Posted May 18, 2019 Posted May 18, 2019 The guy didn't replace the high pressure lines. OK if it's his car but should at least mention it if he's going to blast it over the net. Replacement required anytime they are removed.
2015BassMan Posted May 28, 2019 Posted May 28, 2019 Well I did the deed this weekend. Here’s the video. Truck actually idles smooth now and no hesitation when I accelerate. There’s still an issue when I’m cruising. 50-60 mph coasting I accelerate and the truck bucks a little. Doesn’t feel like injectors. Besides they are all new and there’s a noticeable improvement. Here’s the video I promised. Hope it helps.
2015BassMan Posted May 28, 2019 Posted May 28, 2019 On 5/18/2019 at 5:17 PM, tbarn said: The guy didn't replace the high pressure lines. OK if it's his car but should at least mention it if he's going to blast it over the net. Replacement required anytime they are removed. I talked to GM service about that. They said it is not necessary to replace the piping the injectors are connected to. They are machined metal. There’s nothing on them compromised during removal and re-installation. You’re welcome to waste your money on replacing them. He didn’t and neither did I per GM service tech.
tbarn Posted May 28, 2019 Posted May 28, 2019 (edited) Per Gm service info. Install the fuel feed pipe. Fuel Feed Pipe Replacement Note: "Do NOT reuse the fuel feed intermediate pipe. If the fuel feed intermediate pipe fittings are loosened or the pipes are removed, the pipes MUST be replaced". Edited May 28, 2019 by tbarn
2015BassMan Posted May 28, 2019 Posted May 28, 2019 1 hour ago, tbarn said: Per Gm service info. Install the fuel feed pipe. Fuel Feed Pipe Replacement Note: "Do NOT reuse the fuel feed intermediate pipe. If the fuel feed intermediate pipe fittings are loosened or the pipes are removed, the pipes MUST be replaced". So are they referring to the bigger piping the injectors are mounted to or the smaller lines that feed from the high pressure pump to the rails? The ones from the pump to the rails I could see replacing since they are a compression style fitting. But again I used the existing ones, torqued and ran the pump to check for leaks. Didn’t see any drips so I just reused the existing ones.
tbarn Posted May 28, 2019 Posted May 28, 2019 From the pump out. High pressure. I'm just saying that the guy with the video should have mentioned it in passing. Replace the lines or not. Doesn't matter to me. They aren't going to burst. But still a potential safety/odor concern. I'm sure most in the diy/independent shops don't replace them but if someone is going to blast thier video over the internet, they should at least mention that the lines are supposed to be replaced.
JONBLARC7 Posted June 4, 2019 Posted June 4, 2019 Anybody know how to swap the bolts that hold down the fuel rails to the block. I pulled my rails and injector for a cam swap on my L86 and the injectors where stuck in the block so I bent the fuel rails getting them out. I have all the injectors swapped but the new fuel rails didn't come with the bolts installed in them. And the bolts on the old rails don't just unscrew out.
JONBLARC7 Posted June 6, 2019 Posted June 6, 2019 Any techs out there know the answer to the above. I got the rest of my motor together now. I'm going to try and press them out today after work.
JONBLARC7 Posted June 7, 2019 Posted June 7, 2019 For anyone else that run across this thread and needs to know how to get those bolt out of the fuel rail. They just punch right out. But you need to punch them out because you can't just pull on the washer to pop it off. I put my old rail in a vise used a punch to lightly tap them out. One small hit with a hammer and the punch and they pop right out. Then to put them in the new rail I inserted the bolt and place the rail and the bolt flat on the table. Then I used a socket to top the washer to tap it down into the rail. 1
KARNUT Posted June 7, 2019 Posted June 7, 2019 I never had to replace them. What goes wrong, clogging, bad fuel? You would think they’d be a bit easier to change if they couldn’t go passed 100K miles. Thousand dollars is a lot of money if there’re going to call it routine prior to 150K miles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
JONBLARC7 Posted June 7, 2019 Posted June 7, 2019 I hurt a lifter and scored the cam with 120k miles. So I decided to do TSP 218/226 cam, DOD delete and have the heads re-worked. Well I guessing since my injector had been in the head for 120k miles all the dirt and grime sealed them to the heads. My neighbor and I spent an hour trying to get the injectors and rails out of the heads. The result was two bent fuel rails and two bent injectors.
Davidbaer Posted November 7, 2019 Posted November 7, 2019 Anyone know how to pull the fuel rail out? Have all my bolts loose, don’t want to break something, but I’ve been reefing on it.
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