Jump to content

Rear Mount Turbo!?


Meethead

Recommended Posts

Posted

I took the truck to get a muffler swap done the other day. I noticed how much room is up in the cavity under the bed. My mind went straight to a rear mount turbo. I just want a little more power, not land speed record power but just a little more umph! I was curious if anyone has done this kind of awesome.

 

I would most likely do something simple like a re manufactured powerstroke turbo bolted up to the 3" exhaust and run the intake piping back up to the intake with BOV on the bend into the Throttle body.

 

I know a tune will be needed, just curious if Injectors will need to be upgraded or the cam will need to be swapped.

 

Again, nothing crazy. like 6-8psi

Posted

I have no experience in turbo kits, but wouldn't the distance decrease the power density of both the exhaust and the compressed intake charge?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I have no experience in turbo kits, but wouldn't the distance decrease the power density of both the exhaust and the compressed intake charge?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yeah the compression to the intake charge will be decreased if the piping is not correct for the turbo size. one benefit is that the charge air from the turbo back to intake will be cooled by the ambient air under the truck, this eliminates the need for an intercooler. Also the longevity of the turbo will be better as the turbo will produce less heat than if it was under the hood. some state 260 centigrade less heat than a turbo mounted under a hood.

 

Mounting a turbo in the rear would be an easy job as you dont have to get specific turbo manifolds to bolt up and brackets.

Posted

Following. Looks like STS is in a rebuilding phase but I'd like to see what else is out there.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

My guess would be that at 6-8psi, you'd be ok with just a tune. Pump and injectors should keep up. Cam won't be perfect, you would leave some on the table, but it'd work. Mounting would be piece of cake, just add some heat shielding.

Posted

Rear mount setups are typically reserved for large turbo setups where hood room is non existent. I have only ever seen them used in drag racing setups where turbo lag is not a concern. Lots of room underhood now with the electric fans. Would love to see it though, toying with the idea of boosting my 6.2L once i have another work truck.

Posted

Not an expert, but wouldn't the extra length of the piping also cause more lag? The only time a rear mounted turbo in my opinion would needed is if there's no room under the hood without aftermarket or modding the hood. Teh first rear mounted kit I saw was for a Corvette (C6 I believe it was), but again no room under the room. I would also still run an intercooler. I don't think it would cool off enough in that distance to not need one. At least that's my non expert opinion lol. You just may be able to run a smaller intercooler, but I wouldn't take it completely away.

Posted

Not an expert, but wouldn't the extra length of the piping also cause more lag? The only time a rear mounted turbo in my opinion would needed is if there's no room under the hood without aftermarket or modding the hood. Teh first rear mounted kit I saw was for a Corvette (C6 I believe it was), but again no room under the room. I would also still run an intercooler. I don't think it would cool off enough in that distance to not need one. At least that's my non expert opinion lol. You just may be able to run a smaller intercooler, but I wouldn't take it completely away.

Yeah there is no way a few extra feet of charge pipe is cooling the intake air enough to replace an intercooler.

Posted

The rear mount setups are actually legal in CA while a normal underhood setup is not.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...