Jump to content

Zone 1.5 Body Lift Reversible?

Blaze5012

Recommended Posts

Blaze5012 Enthusiast

Blaze5012

Posted
Posted

I am looking into the Zone 1.5 body lift but see that some cutting is required on the front bumper and mounts. Specifically, it looks like you cut off two bolt holes on each side.

 

To remove the lift and go back to stock, can this bracket be replaced? Ive seen in several posts that this lift is reversible but I cant find how you would turn back from the cutting. What would have to be done to be able to return to stock?

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

I personally can't stand body lifts, it's just the cheap way out yet you seem to have to do more work. If all you want is a 1 1/2" lift I would put a leveling kit on the front and then replace the rear 1" block with a 2" or 3" block. The block is between the axle and leaf springs.

Blaze5012 Enthusiast

Blaze5012

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have already done the leveling kit but am looking for just a little bit more lift. And I don't have $1000+ to spend on a true suspension lift that calls for even more cutting than the body lift. So the 1.5 in body lift for just under $200 is the best route for me.

 

Not the biggest fan of body lifts either, but this is the best route to what I am looking for, as long as the cutting isn't so invasive I can't revert back.

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

I understand the advantages to a body lift is your ability to fit larger tires while maintaining a stock suspension or giving more lift to an already lifted truck. I would personally not consider a body lift as a cheaper alternative to a proper lift. . A local metal fabricator could probably return tabs previously removed but will add to the overall cost. What is the likelihood of you reversing the lift if you choose to go ahead?

ChevyRoofer Senior Enthusiast

ChevyRoofer

Posted
Posted

Subscribed to this. I'm actually looking at the exact same thing to see if I can squeeze 34s or 35s.

 

Body lifts don't change suspension at all, but what all needs to be changed? I saw the front bumper part, but any other Extensions? Exhaust?

Blaze5012 Enthusiast

Blaze5012

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I understand the advantages to a body lift is your ability to fit larger tires while maintaining a stock suspension or giving more lift to an already lifted truck. I would personally not consider a body lift as a cheaper alternative to a proper lift. . A local metal fabricator could probably return tabs previously removed but will add to the overall cost. What is the likelihood of you reversing the lift if you choose to go ahead?

 

 

I would say that the likelihood is low that I would return to stock (I really do want more height), I just would like to know before I install it. Mainly in the case that I ever sell the truck 5-6 years down the road or more.

 

And I really do not prefer the body lift, but I do not like all the bad experiences with the cheaper 4" kits that are mostly an oversized leveling kit (CV angles). And I do not have the budget to spend $1000+ on a 4" full suspension lift and I really don't like the major cutting of the frame. So to me, my best option is the body lift that does not have major cutting (although I still would like to know about the front bumper and mount cutting if its reversible) and is a cheaper option. It also maintains the factory ride as well.

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

I can understand wanting to be able to put it back to stock. But, what you're wanting to do isn't a huge lift so I don't think it would be a big deal to try to sell a truck with a small lift. It's also very understandable that you just don't have the budget for a 4" suspension lift. But, it's not something you need, just what you want. So I say save up for at least a decent lift and then lift it. I would rather wait to be able to put a better lift than to get a cheap one and have problems down the road. You have to do mods to put both a suspension lift and body lift so why not do the full suspension lift since you have to mod things anyways to make fit.

country_09 Enthusiast

country_09

Posted
Posted

I have the 1.5" zone paired with a 2.5" level...not sure why there's so many negatives on it looks wise. You literally can't tell it's there. The rear liners cover the small frame gap, the front liners cover the side of the engine, the hitch isn't like the old style where it's obvious with the big body pucks that one is there. It's all hidden, oh except for the very small amount of frame underneath that shows, so small that no one on the road and half the people in the truck scene don't even notice it. For 200$ it's a quick way to get a lil more clearance. With it bein that small a lift, I wouldn't worry about takin it off to sell the truck. Especially in 4-5 years. More work than it'd be worth at that point.

Blaze5012 Enthusiast

Blaze5012

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have the 1.5" zone paired with a 2.5" level...not sure why there's so many negatives on it looks wise. You literally can't tell it's there. The rear liners cover the small frame gap, the front liners cover the side of the engine, the hitch isn't like the old style where it's obvious with the big body pucks that one is there. It's all hidden, oh except for the very small amount of frame underneath that shows, so small that no one on the road and half the people in the truck scene don't even notice it. For 200$ it's a quick way to get a lil more clearance. With it bein that small a lift, I wouldn't worry about takin it off to sell the truck. Especially in 4-5 years. More work than it'd be worth at that point.

 

Thats a good point for sure. I guess I really shouldn't be too concerned with that part.

 

I am still curious though, is there anyone that has taken this lift off for any reason?

ducklawyer Enthusiast

ducklawyer

Posted
Posted

 

Thats a good point for sure. I guess I really shouldn't be too concerned with that part.

 

I am still curious though, is there anyone that has taken this lift off for any reason?

I took one off my old 96 extended cab. It was a B to get the bumpers relocated correctly. Actual body part is easy. Not sure about these models but I would say not much has changed in he PITA category.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Gas Prices

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Atlas
      Gas Prices

      By Atlas · Posted

      Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • newdude
      2020 Trailboss 6.2 replacement

      By newdude · Posted

      Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • 2017Z
      2020 Trailboss 6.2 replacement

      By 2017Z · Posted

      Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • GN2018
      AFM Disabler Question

      By GN2018 · Posted

      Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...