Jump to content

Theft light & AC issues

TMagg27

By TMagg27
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

TMagg27 New Member

TMagg27

Posted
Posted

I bought a used 2014 Silverado Z-71 from a dealership with 35,000 miles. I've had the truck for approx 3 months now with 39,000 miles and have started having issues. The theft light started coming on about a week ago and now my AC doesn't work. Theft light came on until I restarted the truck but restarting it Is only a temporary fix. AC went out with no warning. Drove it to church and worked perfect, came out and no longer working. Since it's just out of warranty I went to my chevrolet dealership to get some input. They said could be 2 culprits...either alternator is going bad or its in the computer. Had alternator tested and it showed good. Can't belive I could be having computer problems at 39,000 miles!! Not even sure if these 2 issues are related but sure seems coincidental. Has anyone encountered this? Hoping for some helpful feedback before I start shelling out a lot of money to the dealership since no warranty. Any help appreciated!!

O_J_Simpson Senior Enthusiast

O_J_Simpson

Posted
Posted

Someone got rid of that truck for a reason.

 

Expect the AC problem to be the condenser line. A well known design defect with no proven solution. Parts are on back order for weeks at a time.

Loco-diablo Senior Enthusiast

Loco-diablo

Posted
Posted

Someone got rid of that truck for a reason.

 

.

Not necessarily. It may have been a lease return.

 

Many electrical issues here(your alarm) have been traced to bad battery cables. A cheap thing to try first for the alarm problem.

Perhaps an expert can chime in here.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TMagg27 New Member

TMagg27

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the feedback. Already checked the battery cables and they checked out good. Truck wasn't a lease turn-in, was actually a one owner that traded it in. Thinking about contacting the original dealership to request all service records.

Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the feedback. Already checked the battery cables and they checked out good. Truck wasn't a lease turn-in, was actually a one owner that traded it in. Thinking about contacting the original dealership to request all service records.

How were the cables checked if you don't mind me asking? You can't just run a meter from end to end and expect the resistance value to help. If these things aren't voltage dropped, they'll always test good. I've personally worked on quite a few trucks that were tested by previous technicians at dealerships, i tested them and they all have too much resistance under load. Variables to this resistance come into play too, wire length, temperature, soldering in the crimp. This needs to be checked by someone who actually knows what they are doing. Don't assume that if a tech works at the dealer, that he or she is reputable and good at what they do. You'll be surprised at the amount of jiffy lube guys in there. Being a field engineer for GM, I see this at dealerships spanning multiple states. I work on things that dealers can't fix, I'm the guy that Techline calls to go to the dealer when they've exhausted all means of fixing the vehicle. So, back to your issue. This needs to be handled in the most basic of ways first, and battery cables and supply voltage will most likely be the correction to random electrical problems on a 2014

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TMagg27 New Member

TMagg27

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Justin thats great feedback and yes it was an end to end check. Ill recheck based on your info. Thanks!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      Bench seat swap for 2021-2024 suburban

      By davester · Posted

      probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...