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1SLOW1500's Turbo truck build


1SLOW1500

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So found out today I'm one clamp short. It is a smaller one that is the first clamp on the turbo. Also need to custom build myself a EGT extension so I ordered it all on prime, be here in 2 days. Plans is to start Thursday and take my time done by saturday.
Still need to figure out the spark plug wires 2 are super long.
I was going to run with the stainless exhaust adapter and plug that into the factory pipe. Because there is no other way to hold pipe up. My exhaust is cut right after that hanger anyways. Then get tune dialed in before going to fab shop.
However the band clamp is lose on the adapter it falls right out.so that is a issue.
Wondering if the super smallest amount of high temp gasket sealer on all exhaust would be a good idea. And one know?a1cdbdd0d241f4daeb6000afad9270ba.jpgb4d8a60ae57577bb65d49c8a976075df.jpg

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NOTE: Just found out that stainless band clamp isn't for that part of the pipe. I need to weld on the factory adapter if I want to use that. This causes a huge issue as I want to drive the truck to the fab shop. 

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And now I can't stop thinking about having a little more. So alky/meth/water injection. Should have had bungs welded in before powder coat. Oh well. 

Still may need a stainless bung welded to the intake for the Elite EX2, I drilled a hole and hand threaded it down but not the quality I like, not that it matters pre-turbo to be air tight but still. 

So when the exhaust is built up I will have him change that. By then I will decide on the Injection. And this could change that gauge goes in the 4x4 hole in the dash, so I will wait to order anything for that now. It was going to be a oil pressure with the sensor on the turbo feed line, with peak,recall, data log, and warning. 

Can't wait till Thursday........

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Ok my local shop can do a MIG weld on the adapter. Then I will just have the Fab shop cut that off for the custom side pipe and muffler. It works and nothing damaged or wasted, plus I can heard the turbo before buying a muffler, as I have not picked one out yet. Anyone know if the Jones Turbine stainless stuff is any good? Also have answer from Bob about the spark plug wires and yes I screwed that up do I will switch them around tomorrow. Pic is the order they go in(thanks Bob). Wires on the front 2 passenger cylinders wrap all the way around the exhaust manifold then under and back to the front. I spoke with my engineer buddy I trust as I was just going to do stock length and 1800* titanium boot covers. he said it is best as long as wire in about 1/4" away from exhaust to not have boots. Air is a better protector then the wrap. 

 

Oh and what to do about the extra O2 bungs. I was going to just install the factory and bypass them in HP. but could also just block off, unplug and bypass in tune.... 

 

AND... I have many optima batteries. at one point over a dozen. I think I will try out the red top in the truck. It is rated at more power and is smaller. I have different types but a top post only reverse side is the one that fits. Smaller and maybe lighter? But more power and more room. 

pw1-2.jpg

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Intercooler and some coolant lines done. And the red top battery fit right in. More of those pics tomorrow.
This intercooler is huge.and the 45* RUBBER couplers on the bottom just touch but clear the frame to bumper horns. The BOV is about center right behind the bumper.
Got my clamp and it is going to work but I will order smaller one. Also the get wire and ends came so I will wire that up tonight.f9a7b036e3bcda7062f0e94ce8edd32a.jpg

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Ok big day and huge learning curve. Remember I'm one guy in a garage with no install instructions. I install a piece and see it hits 4 others. All in all this is a great kit and easy install. Only issue is the the manifold is so close to the a.c. and power wires.
Waiting on another Amazon order. But think tonight I will order a roll of foil wrap and also a set of spark plug boots. Don't think boots are needed but I already burned one. So another on3 order for a set of wires.
One pic is the temporary exhaust adapter. This way I get the factory first hanger. The battery cable will get a $8 battery cable then the covers will fit back on.
Catch can had to move to the brake booster bolt. I like it there better. Easier to get to the drain.

My biggest concern is the oil drain on the turbo that needs to be drilled and tapped into the oil pan. No one I trust and asked said the tapped fitting will work. Weld in is ideal. All jokes aside.....JB weld...after drill and tap??? Then have the fab shop weld a new fitting next week.b459a0cb3ba7557ffdeef4c988f23442.jpg771978b9f117e092ba2ac0cc3fc1d011.jpg95d03ca34c3b00dcb82df1c2ab88541f.jpg0887853c2fee7f1792fb41cf1c6b3952.jpg937f7e88553b6e7b7c85de1cfb7a7215.jpgc3136cc292d1a3b98ca0fc6a72c675c7.jpgc4255159cd36e40611161e92d6e9f698.jpg56a2edf81503f0313e6a42016225c789.jpg45ff9416ca569d18cf0e8e27108d8483.jpg

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Ok not much today. More money spent. When you think you have everything and then see you need to spend another $300. Lots more temp wrap tape and sleeve, more 1/4 hose, tap, drill bit, wire, grease, anti seize(O2's) and some cool black Miracle tape. Tape is rated at 500*F, you stretch it and it self heals to itself and cures. The other foil tape and sleeve is rated at 400*F direct and and 2000*F radiant heat. I'm sure I am going over kill on this but what the hell easier than removing the turbo and redoing it all, worst if it destroys something!

So tomorrow I will redo a lot of the factory wiring. Starting with the huge power wires. Just temp wrap and relocate. I also need to rewire that MAF extension I made. and clean that up. run the new vacuum lines 

Tap oil pan then drain oil and install the oil filter adapter for the feed line. Worst part is the driver side manifold flange, air gun can't get it off. I will spray liquid wrench on it and let it sit then torch it and try my biggest Snap-on air gun. If all that doesn't work remove the whole driver side and work on it out of truck. but then a new header gasket  form the dealer is needed. 

The plastic under engine guard need the far sides of the front, by the bolt holes that mount it cut out. I will post pic but the amount of Grill that needs to be cut away is crazy. I mean it is like 1/2" of plastic  you never see but that amount over a large part of the whole gill. I have 80 grit roll lock on a 90* snap-on grinder but it still is a slow job. 

 

More pics tomorrow... 

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Caught up on your project. It was tonight's light reading. Thing is I don't speak Greek. LOL. What made you decide to 'wing it'? 

See a few ideas in here for my truck like your gauge work. Who would have thought to put the boost gauge there? Nice powder work by the way. Later. 

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So today was ok. Most people will not understand what they are looking at, I know I didn't. But there's are your power cables. The turbo manifold was hanging on the alternator cable. And the starter wire is longer than needed. No clue on the waste gate tube. So need to email in morning.
MAF is wired and the EGT.
No idea on what the school of thought is on space or gap from heat. But anything under a inch is foil wrapped. Even the AC tube I bent under the battery tray 3+ inches away and under the steel battery tray. f3b03a86e5927b3417614858e6ea8f48.jpg52c5077f12f91cab572f926cb7825d66.jpg7b2485496cc99268d1fe3f0e41fed19f.jpg7c2a445be5999e33016e0c07bec56c56.jpgf35f396c71bf93cb52c88049e4cacc36.jpg

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Loving this DEI heat wrap tape. I wrapped more than needed but most can't be seen from the top of engine. This is my new spark plug wires with titanium sleeves. Seem a little big but worth a try. The wires are ACDelco performance.
Still have my heat shield sleeve and more vacuum line coming.
I now think and hope I have everything needed to Finnish. a58ff3283b1e831d0b48cd318da292c5.jpg443245e176c6fee216acd76180d9ea41.jpg

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