Jump to content

1SLOW1500's Turbo truck build

1SLOW1500

By 1SLOW1500
in Member Build Threads

Recommended Posts

JamesHDdenali New Member

JamesHDdenali

Posted
Posted

First off clean truck bro love the build. Im doing my turbo install on mine right now. Was wonder if you would happen to have a picture of where you did your oil feed tap and return? I can't seem to find a picture of one on the feed on the oil cooler anywhere.  @1SLOW1500

  • Replies 354
  • Created
  • Last Reply
1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No photo on my phone. But if turbo is on passenger side. Drilled right above oil level sensor as high as possible. When you are under truck you will see it. I had to use a 90* drill and a uni bit and go slow checking the hole against the tap. It is a npt thread so tap needs to be run all the way. Then as much Teflon tap as you can get wrapped on it. If your kit is ON3 and it isn't a ON3 turbo you will have issues with down pipe and exhaust. Do plugs and map now and I would buy better v bands for exhaust. Striped 2 of mine. Also very little copper high temp on v band flat surfaces. They leak. And plan your exhaust, anything factory connector needs the adapter welded and maybe tube cut down.

Got pipes but think I will order some 3.5" straight. Like to find a clean looking tip. But in 3.5" stainless it is hard to find.4b46cde7d23d0e8791d33319d0c95e79.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oh and the feed you need a adapter. Fits between the oil filter and the block. I have a band new one. Also a extra radiator hose connector. And manual boost controller.
Pm me if you are interested. What kit do you have?ce25e34878c3f3d5838579aea1ee984b.jpgb657454e4766454343948c07ee380a6d.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also need to find out where I can get a tac signal from. The scg-1 is a triple gauge. Boost controller, wide band, and shift light. I will sent the light to the trans cut off rpm. So I know if it pulls that hard and I see light to check the tune for shifts. As there is also a fuel cutout, I really don't want to hit at WOT.
I will wire in 2 extra analog signals to the green hptuners pro connector. Also if I remember I will have my buddy weld the extra bung under the truck for the dyno.

Bought some gloss black 3m wrap for the pillars and new passenger chrome door window trim. Somehow I have a dent in mine. Thank family for my gm discount.
Also trying to do the Yukon Denali cluster upgrade. Need part number and emailed two programmers that are local. Awesome upgrade if I can pull it off.

****new updated fuel table and Tran shift point next week, if I can I will get video****

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

UGH another set back. For some reason the MAF isn't reading at all the wide band is reading wrong. I re-calibrated the  wide band and it worked good for a few minutes. Truck is way lean. Odd as there is no codes but Hptuner log shows 0. I added the channels/pins. Have to see what I can do. 

Ordered yet again even more stainless, It would have been easier and way cheaper to just by a high end brand name exhaust, Wish I did. 

I will have over $800 in mine by the weekend. But custom is cooler! 

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Award for the dumbest GM-Trucks.com member goes to me!

 

It was a 15 amp fuse that blew do to a small short in the wiring. a solder joint wire cut through the shrink tubing. 

I never needed to buy the new MAF my was fine. 

I packet a little electric grease in the connector anyways.

 

So tomorrow I get the custom stainless exhaust built. 

New custom smooth bumper  ordered. 

and back to tuning. I have the next tune file ready

 

chrispassas21 Enthusiast

chrispassas21

Posted
Posted
Award for the dumbest GM-Trucks.com member goes to me!
 
It was a 15 amp fuse that blew do to a small short in the wiring. a solder joint wire cut through the shrink tubing. 
I never needed to buy the new MAF my was fine. 
I packet a little electric grease in the connector anyways.
 
So tomorrow I get the custom stainless exhaust built. 
New custom smooth bumper  ordered. 
and back to tuning. I have the next tune file ready
 

Waiting for videos!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Waiting for videos!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tomorrow. Would like one with the loud dumped exhaust then another after the exhaust. Truck is on spring only because of the tuning issues. But come Monday I will start turning it up.
Also pics of the custom exhaust tomorrow.
This is the only codes I have now. And that is the driver side down stream O2. No issue as I don't have have that one installed anyways.5db037844fb0658afc907b4d74ee3df0.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Exhaust is beautiful. Guy does amazing work. Exhaust is still loud. Remember it is all 3.5" where before it connected to a 2 foot factory pipe that was smaller than 3". So that restriction helped.
May add a polished tip and a cone insert to quite it down. If I can find a 3.5" stainless rolled tip outlet. All I can find is 5" and that is way to big.
I have before videos. And about to do a after startup.
Yes it hangs a little low where it goes under the frame. But I want caltracs.so needed that. b343aff772af5d2d6acf36e6a833b666.jpg2d2facaf581cd20cc79e6fd2d6b1e881.jpg64ec7c732f511f97c585f143576537c6.jpg7a010adee0106077f90f10b1d717a4db.jpg1ffe98f5c45bc728e4542451ac7b808b.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted
33 minutes ago, barry G said:

sounds awesome.

As one of my friends said, "sounds like a Lion being ass f**ked by a gorilla I love it" Still too loud for me so a Dynatech vortex 3.5" cone and a tip are in order. Worst case I will see if I can add a second 3.5" Dynomax bullet muffler. But for now back to tuning.... Need max boost. And yes looking at fuel upgrade options, friends at GM and GM development have some new options. I am told 510rwhp to 620rwhp are doable but any more and I need fuel and need to look at engine, which I can go with a lt1 or lt4. My price is cheap on gm parts vs. built engine.  

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ordered a exhaust augur insert. Cheap easy insert. See what happens. However the afm and dod delete will address the worst of the exhaust issues.
My damage bumper is still not fixed. Shop said new bumper with paint is over $2000 parts alone are almost 2k and paint is $470. Ugh.... called insurance and waiting.
Blew the turbo clamp so ordered a smaller one.
Trying to set up voice commands in truck.
Set up 3 years free on star. But it links automatically to my GMC and it says get truck to dealer for service and recall.
Recall is a replacement SES module. And check or fix under seat airbag wire.
Need wiring info to Finnish cargo/rear light and fog/parking light mod oh and ambient light wire for console lights.
Working on new motor with cam or just a LT1 long block. Don't know what that can handle but sure it is over 625rwhp.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

barry G Senior Enthusiast

barry G

Posted
Posted

a whole other motor..

I was excited over the new '16 motor getting a boost...but oh well.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...