Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
21 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Wait a minute. :lol: You bought one that you had some undisclosed issue with you don't feel is relevant to share...and then went out and bough a second one just like it? :rolleyes: Reeeeeaaaaally? You hated it so much and it was such a big problem that you bought a second one? What the.....!!  :shakehead:

 

And wrap that all up under the heading of science? :sick: 

 

Smells of stockyard on a hot day in Oklahoma. :puke:Or just irrational. I don't do irrational 'me too' babble. 

 

What's the matter?

Why are you getting all "emoticonal"?

 

so long

j-ten-ner

Posted
17 hours ago, diyer2 said:

Thanks Grumpy.

Pay me now or pay me later comes to mind.

Well maintained, not abused it will last if you didn't get a lemon IMO.

I have witnessed first hand people who mistreat the vehicles and then complain that it's a piece of junk. Never considering they had a hand in it's problems. 

 

:)

 

Fram commercials. Yea, I remember those.  That was awhile ago. 

 

( a rant) This emissions and mileage thing has been a frog jumping half way to the wall of dependability/reliability for quite some time. Metallurgic technology advances haven't moved as rapidly as the destructive forces of heat and heat seems to be Detroit's favorite tool and with sound scientific cause. It lowers Nox and viscosity. Keeping the current technology alive and well is a combination, as you've learned, of controlling the quality of the fluids used to cool and lubricate. How long they are pressed for service, how clean they are kept and most importantly the temperatures they are allowed to suffer. That last ones primary lever is load. If you need to load it more than heat says prudent then add a cooler or two. Lower a thermostat setting. Add a fan. (rant done)

 

True story. I run a 2005 HD Electra on 40W. I also added twin coolers that hold oil temperatures to 90F plus ambient. The cam chain tension assembly in these has a know planned failure of 35,000 miles. The factory recommends 50W and preplacement of tensioners and chains every 30K. Cost about one grand.  This is an example of a planned failure for profits sake. If you ignore this he chain fouls the backing plate pulling debris into the off drive main bearing and BOOM!!. I ran mine 45K and when pulled down for inspection the tensioners still had 95%  + of their original thickness left. In fact I gave permission to replace any other  parts not found to be inside new manufacturing tolerance. (this is a top end tear down if you don't allow pushrod cutting and I didn't) Yep a blank check to a dealership. Not a singe part was replaced other than gaskets and tension assembly. A factory HD TC88 will run between 240 and 310F bulk oil temperature on a 90 F day depending on how hard your hammering it. I run 190 F on that same day no matter what. I did the Dragon on a 95F day in third gear never exceeding 40 mph under as much throttle as grip would allow and never broke 200F. The two other bikes with me were both over 300F. Deals Gap 318 curves in 11 miles.  Heat is a killer even with great oil. 

 

 

 

 

Posted

I think people need to realize "cost cutting" is absolutely necessary today, as to "build em like they used to" would add quite a bit more to the price. This is true with everything in this disposible society from washing machines to the hvac on your house. 10 years is all anything is spec-ed for anymore because no one wants to drop the amount of money it takes to make something truly last. We find our earning power stagnant in this world because the rest is catching up; were still better off than most...

To the lifters I say this: tune out afm, keep adding oil (its cheap) till they fail, then rebuild better. Most of the problems people have are caused by the time they waste worrying about things they cant change...

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, Texas Daddy said:

I think people need to realize "cost cutting" is absolutely necessary today, as to "build em like they used to" would add quite a bit more to the price. 

I'm trying to think of an example where that might be true and am coming up empty. The squeeze on the families buying power is just as prevalent in non manufactured goods and services. It doesn't cost one red cent more to design a thing right as it does wrong. The cost of heat treat is the same for 62 RC and it is for 55 RC. The cost of steels and alloys properly selected are a wash. Fit and finish is head a shoulders above 1950 levels as is motor life spans.

 

However the 4-5-6 clutch packs in the 6L80E is a great example of stupid is as stupid does. The design is flawed. The apply piston fails to support the clutch discs fully. The cost of the properly designed parts from the aftermarket are cheaper retail than the flawed design factory original replacements. Cost to the consumer is not the issue. Greed is the issue. 

 

US buying power is down 40% since 1960. Inflation has out stripped earnings as steady and as slowly as a Boa eating a rat for five decades plus. that is not the result of anyone's necessity. Just plain old greed. Frogs boiled slowly don't notice their dying but can be convinced their not in danger by their own gullible senses. 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
Posted

The biggest factor IMO.

 

GREED 

greed
ɡrēd/
noun
 
  1. intense and selfish desire for something, especially wealth, power, or food.
     
    The biggest factor in our world today. From the small business owner to the big guys.
     
    :)
  • Like 3
Posted
2 hours ago, diyer2 said:

The biggest factor IMO.

 

GREED 

greed
ɡrēd/
noun
 
  1. intense and selfish desire for something, especially wealth, power, or food.
     
    The biggest factor in our world today. From the small business owner to the big guys.
     
    :)

I hear an Echo in here...an echo in here....in here....here

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On ‎1‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 5:32 PM, dsr611 said:

^^^This^^^

Before I had the issues with the lifters in my truck, I would average around 17 mpg, according to the DIC.

Since having the DOD/AFM kit installed and turning the AFM off with the Diablo tuner I got, I'm averaging about 18.5 mpg

I have a 2011 Silverado with 5.3L. at 75,500 miles I had no issues and averaged just above 17mpg. At 76,000 miles the check engine light had a code of P0305, which is misfiring on #5 cylinder. I have followed all of the manufacturers' maintenance requirements including the oil changes to the specs.

Auto shop opened the manifold on the driver's side and it smelled like a dead animal, oil had silver specs and the lifters were worn so much that they would not hold their position. Seriously, disappointed in the 5.3L engine with the fuel mgt system.  I am glad to hear about your success. I need to pursue the fix. 

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...
Posted
20 minutes ago, Reagan Coates said:

Trying to figure out how to avoid this in the future.

Rebuild the engine using non-AFM lifters, cam, etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 344 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...