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Just completed my latest long range build and can't wait to take it out on the range after work today :D

 

The mechanism is from a Rem 700 with a match grade barrel in .308. The other components are:

  • XLR Evolution stock
  • Spuhr QDP 4002 scope mount
  • Tier One picatinny rail
  • ASE Utra muzzle brake
  • Schmidt & Bender PMII 5-25x56 FFP scope / MSR reticle
  • Magpul 10 rd AICS style magazines
  • Harris bipod w. A.R.M.S QR adapter
  • Timney trigger
  • KRG SV bolt lift

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Edited by TheSwede
Trigger added to the list
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Thanks guys!

 

The load I'm currently experimenting with is:

  • 178 gr Hornady ELD Match
  • Norma brass
  • CCI primer
  • 44 gr of Varget
  • 2.900 OAL

 

Unfortunately, the longest range I can access at the moment is "only" 550 yards - but I'm trying to get special permission to use a nearby military 1000 yard range a couple of times per month (I believe I'm more likely to hit a lottery jackpot than getting access to their range though...).

 

The barrel will be a Lothar Walther. Unfortunately, my order was delayed and won't arrive until sometime next week so I will be using the stock barrel until the new one has arrived. Letting the rifle sit for another week or so is not an option :D A local gunsmith and long range shooter will be doing the fitting and truing as that is way beyond my knowledge :) I'm currently using a Timney trigger but have been thinking a while about changing it to a Jewel. What do you guys think? Is it worth the extra bucks upgrading it to a Jewel?

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I dunno on the trigger.  I haven't bought a Timney since they only had one Rem 700 model.  It seems they have a few more choices these days.  If you have that Calvin Elite 2 stage, you probably have a trigger I'd be happy with.   I don't have enough experience with 2 oz pull triggers to say I'd want one.  But a trigger in the 8 oz -16 oz range would work for me for my level.

 

As for trueing up the action, the biggest offender in the post 2000 year range I found was the face of the action was not square with the bolt axis.  This seemed to be because Remington used a separate milling operation to cut the face, rather than just facing it in a lathe with the bolt bore axis aligned.  Next was the threaded section not being true to the bolt bore axis.  And finally, the lug recesses could use a clean cut while the bolt bore is aligned. Lap the bolt lugs in.  And that's about the extent of my knowledge.

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Another mod that I'm a fan of on the 700 action is the striker safety mod.  It ends up like a Win model 70 striker block safety.  This takes all the BS out of the trigger safeties.  I never liked trigger safeties.

 

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/safety-parts/safeties/remington-700-three-position-safety-shroud-prod6668.aspx

Edited by Spurshot
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  • 3 years later...

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