Jump to content

Chrome bubble (when bumper to bumper doesn't include the bumper)


Recommended Posts

Posted

So I was looking at smudge on my front valance and trying to figure out the most gentle way to get that off, when I notice a bubble on the chrome bumper where it meets the valence on the passenger side near the grille. We all know what that means. Argh!

Posted

That sucks.  I was a bit torn about having painted bumpers thinking chrome was easier to maintain, but things like this make me think it's a toss up. 

Posted

Sucks for sure...luckily my 18 is a little to new to be having any rust issues yet lol but I have noticed in the plastic parts that are chrome like the grill and trim around the headlights, I have like "smudges" and marks that wont come off. I have no idea what it is or what caused it and its kinda upsetting considering the truck isnt even 2 months old. You noticed anything like that on your plastic pieces? Thinking maybe the salt did it? Idk, maybe i need to try a polish or something on it. 

 

Posted

Try chrome polish, but paint polish may work as well.  I actually wax the chrome parts as well as the paint.  Seems to cut down the spots from bug guys etc.

Posted
4 minutes ago, Mike GMC said:

Try chrome polish, but paint polish may work as well.  I actually wax the chrome parts as well as the paint.  Seems to cut down the spots from bug guys etc.

I waxed it the first time I waxed the truck but some of the spots were already there. Are there any spots in your chrome that you can't seem to get out or is it just me? Your truck in the salt at all? 

Posted

No salt in Denver, they use sand and Mag-Chloride.  It sucks too, but in a different way than salt.  It eats rubber parts.  The hardest stuff for me to get out are the little pits from the sand and gravel impacts.  Add bug guts to the pits, and you get to do a lot of polishing.

 

Chrome just isn't what it used to be.  Still looks great when new, but seems to very soft and thin.  Particularly on plastic parts

Posted
1 minute ago, Mike GMC said:

No salt in Denver, they use sand and Mag-Chloride.  It sucks too, but in a different way than salt.  It eats rubber parts.  The hardest stuff for me to get out are the little pits from the sand and gravel impacts.  Add bug guys to the pits, and you get to do a lot of polishing.

Ill have to try the chrome polish and see if it makes any difference. I didnt know how crazy I could go with it just being plated plastic but I will give it a try. The spots look wierd I really thought they were all bug splatter thats like how they look, like smears or smudges but the damn stuff wont come off with a regular wash or quick detailer 

Posted

You might try bug and tar remover as well.  Be careful to keep it off the paint though.  It also removes all wax or other protectants.

Posted
1 minute ago, Mike GMC said:

You might try bug and tar remover as well.  Be careful to keep it off the paint though.  It also removes all wax or other protectants.

I haven't tried that but I don't think its actually bug splatter that is just what it looks like, but if you feel the spots they are totally smooth, couldnt find them with your eyes closed. Like I said its wierd not sure what the hell it is 

Posted
14 hours ago, Rob Okray said:

So I was looking at smudge on my front valance and trying to figure out the most gentle way to get that off, when I notice a bubble on the chrome bumper where it meets the valence on the passenger side near the grille. We all know what that means. Argh!

If you still have the original front bumper on your truck, I'd take it to the dealer and see about a warranty replacement.  No harm in trying.  I also have a '15 and I would fully expect my dealer to mitigate any such premature rust issues and  I'd be very surprised if they didn't help me out!

Posted
3 hours ago, Donstar said:

If you still have the original front bumper on your truck, I'd take it to the dealer and see about a warranty replacement.  No harm in trying.  I also have a '15 and I would fully expect my dealer to mitigate any such premature rust issues and  I'd be very surprised if they didn't help me out!

Thanks, I suppose it's worth a try. Kind of a shocker that they would let things slide that far. But maybe it shouldn't be.

Posted
19 hours ago, Mike GMC said:

Probably stains then.  Bugs, oil, tar can all stain.  Chrome polish may be best.

I think he's seeing stains on his chrome PAINT, that's on the plastic parts, correct?  I'm not sure using a chrome polish on that chrome-looking paint would do what he wants.....although I'm not sure what will get those "stains" out, really.  I'm interested to see if anything works!  ;)

Posted
6 hours ago, Donstar said:

If you still have the original front bumper on your truck, I'd take it to the dealer and see about a warranty replacement.  No harm in trying.  I also have a '15 and I would fully expect my dealer to mitigate any such premature rust issues and  I'd be very surprised if they didn't help me out!

To quote Gomer Pyle, "SUPRISE! SUPRISRE! SUPRISE!" 3 Warrantees and none of them cover the bumper. 52k and a 2015, so still under original factory warranty. Not covered. Certified Pre Owned. Not Covered. Bought a GM (ok now pay attention), "bumper to bumper warranty". Not covered. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...