Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
21 hours ago, 1940ModelB said:

Word has it Fluid Film dissolves the wax coating GM uses on our frames and takes a bad situation and makes it worse.

Thanks, didn't know that.

Posted

My frame is full of surface rust on my 2014 now.

I’m about to do a massive lift and want to strip and coat the frame finally.

How did you guys remove the surface rust? Just get under it with a wire wheel?

Posted

I noticed that these trucks also have a sound deadening material that absorbs salt and moisture at the bottom of the front fender.  It's the area between where the front mud flap and front door seam would be.  You can see it if you open your door and look in the seam where your hinge is near the bottom.  I removed the mud flap and front wheel liner to access this spot and removed the sound deadening material. The material was soaking wet and could have made that area rust out.  I now keep the area soaked with Krown spray.

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, WesternMike said:

My frame is full of surface rust on my 2014 now.

I’m about to do a massive lift and want to strip and coat the frame finally.

How did you guys remove the surface rust? Just get under it with a wire wheel?

I did my truck before there was any surface rust. Let me say to begin with, stripping the factory wax off is one of the most annoying things I have ever done. I found the best way to get the wax off was to spray with a solvent, let it sit, and then use a pressure washer (preferably heated) to knock the wax off and repeat the process until all of the wax is gone. I used a mixture of diesel fuel and Purple Power cleaner as my solvent and it worked pretty well, the diesel really softens up the wax. 

 

As far as the areas that already have rust I would do one of 2 things depending on how bad it is. If it is very minor surface rust I would just spray it with a rust reformer. If it is really bad and rough I would sand it down with a wire wheel, sanding block, etc and then spray with a rust reformer (if rust is still visible).

Edited by adamj2121
Posted
Thanks, didn't know that.


I have been using fluid film on my frame for about 2 years now. It didn’t dissolve the wax on my frame at all. However it doesn’t really hold up from the constant barrage of salt/anti skid which seems to blast it off easily.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
I did my truck before there was any surface rust. Let me say to begin with, stripping the factory wax off is one of the most annoying things I have ever done. I found the best way to get the wax off was to spray with a solvent, let it sit, and then use a pressure washer (preferably heated) to knock the wax off and repeat the process until all of the wax is gone. I used a mixture of diesel fuel and Purple Power cleaner as my solvent and it worked pretty well, the diesel really softens up the wax. 
 
As far as the areas that already have rust I would do one of 2 things depending on how bad it is. If it is very minor surface rust I would just spray it with a rust reformer. If it is really bad and rough I would sand it down with a wire wheel, sanding block, etc and then spray with a rust reformer (if rust is still visible).



The wax flaked entirely off within months. Was one of the problems with the first Gen of these trucks (2014). My truck was perfect besides this rust issue on the frame.

I don’t think it’s too bad so now that it’s getting warm up here in Alberta I may try to tackle this as soon as I get the 8” lift on; will be so much easier being under it after lifted haha
Posted



The wax flaked entirely off within months. Was one of the problems with the first Gen of these trucks (2014). My truck was perfect besides this rust issue on the frame.

I don’t think it’s too bad so now that it’s getting warm up here in Alberta I may try to tackle this as soon as I get the 8” lift on; will be so much easier being under it after lifted haha

I wonder if the 2019s have the same wax on the frames?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 minute ago, WesternMike said:

 

 


The wax flaked entirely off within months. Was one of the problems with the first Gen of these trucks (2014). My truck was perfect besides this rust issue on the frame.

I don’t think it’s too bad so now that it’s getting warm up here in Alberta I may try to tackle this as soon as I get the 8” lift on; will be so much easier being under it after lifted haha

 

 

The 8" lift will make it much easier. I have a 6" lift and I drove the truck up on some wood blocks I had laying around, so it was about 12" in the air and it was super easy.

Posted
2 minutes ago, dave07 said:


I wonder if the 2019s have the same wax on the frames?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's hard to say, GM has been using the wax for so long I really doubt they will change. I think it would be beneficial for the consumer if they would switch. The e-coating that Ford uses seems to be pretty nice.

Posted
24 minutes ago, dave07 said:


I wonder if the 2019s have the same wax on the frames?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quite sure they stated they are going to continue the wax coating as they believe in it .

Posted
4 hours ago, dave07 said:


I wonder if the 2019s have the same wax on the frames?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't know what's on the 2019's but the sales guy that sold me my 2018 last weekend said that the frames have a new undercoating on them for 2018. Don't know if that's true, doubt it seeing as how the guy didn't know what direct injection was or that the truck had electric steering. Pointed that out to him and he said no, it's got regular sterring. Asked him to point to the power steering pump and he pointed to the water pump.

 

But the frame does have a very tacky black coating on it...doesn't seem to be working as there already is rust in spots were the coating has rubbed off.

Posted
4 hours ago, dave07 said:

 


I have been using fluid film on my frame for about 2 years now. It didn’t dissolve the wax on my frame at all. However it doesn’t really hold up from the constant barrage of salt/anti skid which seems to blast it off easily.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yeah I haven't sprayed it over undercoating or anything - then again maybe I have - I just have used it on the pinch welds on my car right before winter starts. Seems to do ok, nothing special. I kind of look at it as a temporary solution that needs to be reapplied. I think most stuff will work temporarily...oil, penetration oil, rtv, grease, paint...but none of those is a long term set it and forget, fix.

 

I had a leaking oil pan on an Accord I used to own, that oil pan was probably the only thing that wasn't rusted on that car. 

 

There's always POR 15. But get any of that on you and it's never coming off, lol.

Posted

My '15 does not appear to have any type of coating that could peel off and no signs of unusual amounts of rust.  Other than the obvious appearance issues,  has anyone experienced any functional issues related to rust on a newer vehicle?  Many years ago I had a '76 GMC 3/4 ton and my mechanic once showed me my floor mats from underneath the truck while up on a hoist.  I put a few pieces of plywood under the mats and kept on trucking!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 350 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...