Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

2018 Silverado 2500 LT 1,300 miles

 

truck during the day shows volts at 12.5. I can turn on ac full blast, radio and defroster and colts stay at 12.5 all day. When driving volts stay at 12.5 when I’m rolling and foot of gas mpg gauge goes up to 99mpg then will charge at 14volts as soon as I hit the gas bolts drop to 12.5. And night when headlights turn on truck will charge at 14 volts. First two times truck was taken to dealer they said nothing is wrong now the third time they tell me that’s not normal and change alternator and never fixed the problem still in the shop. Anyone have same issues or volts stay around 13.2-14.5 volts all day and night

Edited by Leone1662
Posted

the charging cycle is temperature related . a cold battery does not charge very well, below 45 degrees mine stays at 14 when it gets to 60 it will stay just under 14 and when it get to 70 and above it will always be just above the 12 volt range. i think gm does this because the hotter the temperature the faster the chemical reaction is in the battery which makes them sulfate and boil of the chemical in the battery which shortens the life of the battery

Posted

Idk about that where I live it hasn’t been above 60 and even if it’s 50 degrees out truck sits at 12.5 volts

Posted

The system is actually designed to work like that and has been since around 2005.  Search back through these forums or just Google something like "GM charging system".  You can find very in-depth explanations of how the system works.  But under normal operation you can see anywhere between 12-14.4 Volts on the gauge.

Posted
The system is actually designed to work like that and has been since around 2005.  Search back through these forums or just Google something like "GM charging system".  You can find very in-depth explanations of how the system works.  But under normal operation you can see anywhere between 12-14.4 Volts on the gauge.
I've seen as low as 13.8vdc and as high as 15.2vdc, but never below 13.8vdc (which is the voltage of a "12 volt" lead acid battery).

That's looking at it through a stand alone monitor that is reporting the voltage the ECM/BCM is reporting. That's not a VOM...

2012 2500hd 6.0l CCSB 4wd



Posted

I was going to ask this same question today. I have a 2018 with 1500 miles and noticed the voltage guage is anywhere between 12.5 and 14v and it is constantly fluctuating. I've never seen/noticed this before in any of my other vehicles.

Posted

This was common in the Dodge Cummins-powered trucks when they started because of the cycling of the grid heaters...Dodge answered this customer complaint by make the in-dash voltage gauge read 14vdc all the time. That's right, they made the gauge useless...

Same with the oil pressure...it was a dummy gauge that read yes/no from a pressure switch (not a pressure sensor) and made up the reading based on engine rpm and temperature...what's worse is that the oil pressure gauge would read normal oil pressure for three minutes (when in reality the engine had zero oil pressure) before it would show a problem.

Essentially the Dodge dash gauges were glorified idiot lights...

Point being, I could see GM doing the same thing with too many customer complaints!

2012 2500hd 6.0l CCSB 4wd



Posted

Charging System Operation
The purpose of the charging system is to maintain the battery charge and vehicle loads. There are 6 modes of operation and they include:
Battery Sulfation Mode

Charge Mode

Fuel Economy Mode

Headlamp Mode

Start Up Mode

Voltage Reduction Mode
The engine control module (ECM) controls the generator through the generator turn on signal. It monitors the generator performance though the generator field duty cycle signal circuit. The signal is a 5-volt pulse width modulation (PWM) signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0-100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5-95 percent. Between 0-5 percent and 95-100 percent are for diagnostic purposes. The generator provides a feedback signal of the generator voltage output through the generator field duty cycle signal circuit to the ECM. This information is sent to the body control module (BCM). The signal is a 5-volt PWM signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0-100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5-99 percent. Between 0-5 percent and 100 percent are for diagnostic purposes.

 

10% duty cycle = 11V

90% duty cycle = 15.5V

 

Startup Mode should be 14.3V for 30 seconds.

Headlamp mode will be 13.9-14.5V (I've seen this delayed coming out of lower voltages).

 

 

Lower voltage means your battery doesn't need to charge. If you are constantly sitting at 14.4V+ with hours of driving your battery is probably starting to go bad.

Posted

I had a 2016 with 38,678miles and charged all day everyday around 13.2-14.5 never had a battery issue. Now this one nothing different besides it’s an 2018Lt and the other was a 2016 Wt both had one battery and 220amp alternatorthe 18 during the day it’s at 12.5 and at night is 14.5. Can’t tell me battery is always charged during the day. Truck has 1,400 miles on it

  • 5 years later...
Posted

I have a 16 sierra denali. Been chasing a battery drain for several months. I've unwired everyrhing I have added to the truck. Replaced battery and alternator couple times. No results. I noticed it was only not charging properly during day time. My alternator will fluctuate from 11.5v to 14.5v. But most often less than 12v. Covered sensor and no more issues. Now what could be shorted or causing the issue? I think it would be easier to identify if it was happening during night mode. 

 

Thanks in advance

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...