Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My 2014 Sierra with 42k has since around 300 miles popped up the message to service stabiltrac and brake together from time to time. My dealer said they can not find a issue with either system and the alarm would have to be in to troubleshoot. Problem with that is it only stays on for a few miles then goes off. I have read about wheel sensors and now the G218 issue. I am going to pull the dash and look at the ground and fix that but I was wondering if anyone else has done this with only the two messages I have coming in and it fixed the issue. It looks like other people has had a lot more issues like more error messages and the jerking steering wheel and dimming lights. I hope I correct my issue but I am thinking the ground while not hurting to check it and fix it is not my issue. I thought years ago it was the Range but I got rid of it and the message continues to pop up with no set frequency. Hoping that someone chimes in that had the identical issue and did the G218 fix and it worked to give me some hope.

 

Yotaman

 

Posted

Update 

I did the G218 mod yesrerday. A couple notes for anyone interested. Watching the youtube video is a big help. The nut that holds the ground is deeper and harder to get at than I realized. I used a 10mm wrench to loosen it but once you get about a half turn loose it will thread right off. I did not cut the insulation I simply removed nut pulled off ground wire the folded the insulation material back towards the pass side then put the ground back with the nut on top then let the insulation fold back over the spot where it went. Thus far I have started my truck 8-10 times and still no alarms. If I go through next weekend without any I will consider it fixed....  could it really have been this simple ??

 

thanks

Yotaman

Posted (edited)

Well damm damm damm I spoke too soon.... came back on next start. Knew it could not be that simple.

 

Yotaman (last GM  Man )

Edited by Yotaman
Posted

Just curious did you try and clean the area where the ground wire went so it could make good contact?

 

Posted

No but it looked to be clean metal to metal contact.

Thanks for the reply.

 

Yotaman

Posted

A couple of notes I learned back when I did this fix:

 

It's easier to get to the ground stud if you remove the tweeter first.

Even if it looks like a good ground I would sand/file both the top of the dash and the underside of the nut.

Do both sides while you have the dash apart (the G218 is on the driver side but there is a similar ground on the passenger side).

Posted

On the GMT900 series a faulty brake pedal switch couls also cause this effect. Might be the same on a 2014.

 

Posted

I've had the stabilitrac service message on my 2015 a couple times.  Went to the dealer the first time, and they immediately asked if I had been driving on loose gravel any that day;  I had been for just a few minutes.   Apparently loose rock can cause this error.  Mine went off shortly thereafter I drove around the first time.  It popped up just a couple weekends ago leaving the river, heard a nasty rock hit the underside of the truck, message popped up immediately.  It went back off again on next start of the truck though.

Posted (edited)

Appreciate your responses Guys. Mine seems to do it every afternoon at work as soon a I start the motor. So I am not even moving yet and both alarms come in always both of em never just one. For a while I have thought maybe it is something to do with the Bluetooth or when I connect my phone by cable to the truck but I cannot find any consistency in it. I will look into the brake pedal further too. It is only a nuisance but I still irks me. I am thinking it sitting in the hot sun like a ground point may lose good contact from contraction and expansion  or something too ???

You get to be a half azz mechanic owning these newer trucks these days I tell ya that.

 

 

Yotaman

Edited by Yotaman
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Yotaman did you ever get this fixed? my father has a 2011 Silverado that the stabilitrak light comes on if parked in hot sun. done it for 2 years was fine all winter. goes out after its parked in the garage for awhile or drive with a/c on for a bit.

 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

No mine still does it just not as frequent as it used to. I guess I will revisit the G218 ground and sand the connection and do the other side as well since I know how to and it has slowed down since I first did it but that could be a fluke as well.

 

Yotaman

  • 2 months later...
Posted

As a update I tried sanding the G218 ground as well as the one on the opposite side but that did not work, I ran a extra ground from the battery negative post to the chassis thinking that if the ground was bad maybe that would stop it to no avail. I was getting my tires rotated at my local tire dealer and mentioned the issue to him and his mechanic pulled a few different codes and said it looks like a communication issue but we do not do that type of repair. So I called GM Customer Service to complain that I have lived with this for almost 5 years and am upset that a tire dealer could hone in on a possible problem but not a GM dealer...…..so of course apologies and understands but my truck has to be checked by a dealer to go forward. So I go back to my dealer who is under new ownership and a new looking service crew. I explain what has happened and they take the truck wait an hour and then tell me the brake switch is bad and we will order it. I go back next Friday to have it replaced. The new service advisor apologizes says it should have been fixed a long time ago. I won't know for a few weeks after if that really fixes it but the service manager seems genuine and seems like he really wants the problem fixed. A post I read a while back someone here said they had the same issue on a 2011 or 13 maybe and it was the brake switch so hopefully I will get lucky. Just posting so if anyone else has this issue It may give them hope to possibly fix it.

 

Yotaman

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Final update I hope. Over a week with no alarms coming in but I was confused they replaced the Brake fluid reservoir level switch and that seems to have fixed the issue. Not sure why I never got low alarm but I am not looking a gift horse in the mouth. New owner dealer service mgr replaced it under factory warranty too. So hopefully I have many more miles trouble free.

 

22R

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 3/31/2019 at 6:02 AM, Yotaman said:

Final update I hope. Over a week with no alarms coming in but I was confused they replaced the Brake fluid reservoir level switch and that seems to have fixed the issue. Not sure why I never got low alarm but I am not looking a gift horse in the mouth. New owner dealer service mgr replaced it under factory warranty too. So hopefully I have many more miles trouble free.

 

22R

Is your issue still fixed? I have a 2018 and get service stabillitrack randomly and immediately after startup then disappears. No other messages. The G18 dash ground should not be an issue on my 2018. I did clean the negative battery cable frame ground on the passenger side frame rail near the front fender liner. Mine had a decent amount of wax blocking the connection. Haven't seen the message but its only been a week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,000 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...